Just another overhaul thread

[Surcouf]

I don't know... but the color combo seems to have worked for a few movies.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/KEYCHAIN-Ma...k/371261159795

LOL... never seen any of those Marvel movies. Let's hope that the engine is as bullet proof as the movie character!

[Administrator]

Excellent looking A4. Please avoid the temptation to use the stock
"lifting ring/alternator mount bracket" as a lifting point for re-installing your engine. The leverage factor between the large hole and the two head bolts puts enough force on the head to actually crack it in some cases. I have two heads in my A4 scrap pile that have that "injury". Some of us have actually added a small bracket, attached to that Lift/alt unit, that is supported be a third head bolt, to make it stronger. Others choose to use straps around the entire motor when it's time to do the lift.
Tom

Personal opinion: +1!!!!

That original lifting eye is a terrible piece of engineering, and using it is just asking for big trouble.

Bill

[Surcouf]

So tonight conversion of the eBay distributor from old Points to electronics. I had no real procedure here, and tried to use common sense and logic... we will see if that was a good idea...

Installing the water plate, Finding the TDC with Don M on YouTube, pouring the 5QT of oil (that was a good feeling), connecting the temporary gages (water temp and oil pressure), starter, accessory gear (temporary, I have not been able to find the right key yet), water pump, fuel pump, carburetor (untouched for now; I will mess with that if the engines runs. If it ain’t broken...). Every 10 minutes, a dent in the new paint... stay calm.

Questions:
- the 3 studs For the manifold are not “fully engaged” in the nuts (or reverse?). I am pretty sure I did not mess up with other studs, as these 3 were packed separately by Ken. Is that a big issue?
- for the test, should the engine be flat, or slightly tilted like in the sailboat?

Thank you!!
PS no idea why one picture is reverse...

[Dave Neptune]

Testing flat is fine. If you want to mimic the angle it won't hurt and again it is not necessary.

Fair winds. _/) _/)

Dave Neptune

[ndutton]

As long as the oil level reads full on the dipstick, neither low or high.

[Surcouf]

Thank you Dave & Neil

Another question for you guys, on top of the previous one:
- what torque should I put on the 2 thermostat housing bolts? the nut thread is backed by a pretty thin wall, and I am concerned that 35lbf is quite a lot.
- the 3 studs For the manifold are not “fully engaged” in the nuts (or reverse?). I am pretty sure I did not mess up with other studs, as these 3 were packed separately by Ken. Is that a big issue?

Thank you

[ndutton]

As a generic reply in the form of a question, if you cannot torque them to spec, what does that tell you?

[Surcouf]

As a generic reply in the form of a question, if you cannot torque them to spec, what does that tell you?

not sure to understand..
- I was able to torque the manifold studs nuts to 25
- I have not tried to torque de thermostat housing nuts, as I am not fully sure of the torque. Should I go for 35 like the other head bolts?
Thank you

[ndutton]

Perhaps it was I who did not understand the question. Per the MMI Service and Overhaul Manual, page 1-9, the head nuts including the thermostat housing are sequentially torqued to 25, 30 and finally 35 ft-lbs in the torque pattern pictured. An option of 30 ft-lbs. max is mentioned if the block threads are corroded.

You are correct on the manifold studs, 25 ft-lbs.

[Surcouf]

Perhaps it was I who did not understand the question. Per the MMI Service and Overhaul Manual, page 1-9, the head nuts including the thermostat housing are sequentially torqued to 25, 30 and finally 35 ft-lbs in the torque pattern pictured.

So I have my answer, and will torque as that value. Thank you!!
Note: I am also under the impression that I may have a very early version MM Manual, left by a PO in the boat, without all the most recent additions.

[Surcouf]

So stop at the boat today to remove the engine mount located Below the water pump, completely rusted so that I had to cut it, and both bolt heads were gone. It ended up being a very cordial discussion. I let you imagine the details of that talk through a picture...

[Surcouf]

So step by step getting there....
- Compression test: Engine cold all 4 cylinders at 90psi, or very close.
- with starter, And oil cold, oil pressure around 25 psi

[Surcouf]

So... heated the engine twice until 150F and torqued the head bolts to 35 lbf. But:
- it does not run idle at all, I have to «*hold it*» and play with starter and gas all the time to keep it from stalling. My spark plugs are quite sooty. First thing I a going to check is the TDC again with Don’s method. What else should I check?
- 2 of my head bolts are «*sipping water*». What should I do here? Remove these 2 nutS, add Permatex and rétorque? All studies were installed in the block with Permatex, no idea how water could make it that far

Thank you!!

[Administrator]

This may help you with the leaky head bolts.

Bill

[Surcouf]

This may help you with the leaky head bolts.

Bill

Thank you
I started right away. First one went as per Don’s words.
For The second one the studs came out. Pretty hard to seat properly once the head is one. I went full permatex for now. If it leaks again, I will go JB weld for the bottom of the stud, and I would cut a nut to be able to seat the stud properly.
Answer tomorrow, once everything is dry.

Thank you!