So I'm investigating the drip rate on the stuffing box (too fast) and I turn the stuffing box and discover there is play in the shaft to coupling connection. The lock nuts are wired. Go ahead and tell me the bad news.
shaft coupling
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You need to determine which is the offending component, shaft or coupler, and replace as indicated. The full Monty is replace both. Good time for a MMI split coupler.
Do it right, cry once.Neil
1977 Catalina 30
San Pedro, California
prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22
Had my hands in a few others
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Thank you. Yep, Neil, that's about what I am thinking. Now we're talking an unplanned dry dock . And the shaft is unbelievably difficult to get to.
I only use the iron sail in and out of the marina. 20 mins and I don't push it. I've been waiting all summer for the wind to return and it's just coming back now. I'd like to do this when the wind gets poopy again, June, July.
Will tightening the 2 wired bolts on the coupler, if loose, help?Bill McLean
'76 Ericson 27
:valhalla:
Norfolk, VA
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Originally posted by alcodiesel View PostWill tightening the 2 wired bolts on the coupler, if loose, help?Neil
1977 Catalina 30
San Pedro, California
prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22
Had my hands in a few others
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Torque is transferred from the coupling to the shaft by a key. Thrust loads fore/aft are transferred by the set screws. It's important that the set screws seat into drilled recesses in the shaft, otherwise it's easy for things to get loose. And if they get loose the prop and shaft can slide aft out of the coupling.
Navy practice is to add some pieces to the coupling. The shaft gets a groove machined in it a bit back from the front end. The coupling goes on past the groove, then a pair of half-circle plates fit into the shaft groove. It all gets bolted up to the next piece forward.
If the shaft pulls out of the coupling, it isn't good. If it just pulls aft a little, you lose propulsion. If it pulls aft a lot (like through the stuffing box) you could lose the boat.
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Ok, I got the bolts tight. Thanks to Blaster getting them loose. Now there is no play in the coupler to shaft joint. I have a pull out scheduled January 17. Looking to replace the coupler, shaft, stuffing box, log, possibly the cutless (or cutlass- I've seen lately)Bill McLean
'76 Ericson 27
:valhalla:
Norfolk, VA
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Originally posted by alcodiesel View PostOk, I got the bolts tight. Thanks to Blaster getting them loose. Now there is no play in the coupler to shaft joint. I have a pull out scheduled January 17. Looking to replace the coupler, shaft, stuffing box, log, possibly the cutless (or cutlass- I've seen lately)
Cutlass is a swordJoe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
Maryland USA
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I wouldn't get too wrapped around the axle on this. Regardless of pedigree, "Cutless" and "Cutlass" for the names of our shaft bearings have both been commonly accepted at least as far back as I was purchasing them at Islander Yachts, nearly 5 decades ago.Neil
1977 Catalina 30
San Pedro, California
prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22
Had my hands in a few others
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Off topic but I have to make a comment on Islander boats. Elderly gentleman in his 80's, strong physically but forgetful on a can next to mine has a 64 Islander 32 that had not moved all summer - reason "couldn't get A4 engine started". I got involved in Oct and was overwhelmed by the toughness of the boat - small cabin, built like a tank with the A4 sitting at the bottom of the companionway - takes up cabin space but the BEST access ever all around. Thx to Moyer parts no/weak spark was solved by new rotor/coil/wires and fuel delivery with new fuel pump and idle passage carb cleaning all done with ease. [He had EI but did not know he had it] He was then able to motor/sail about 15 miles to winter layup. Very envious of the engine access.
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Not sure why you're replacing all that stuff. Does it need replacement?
Make sure whoever is doing the shaft has the coupling in hand so they can drill the shaft for the coupling set screws. They can also face the coupling so it's running square to the shaft.
DO NOT tighten the set screws against a smooth shaft and expect them to keep the shaft secure.
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Bill/alcodiesel, what’s your shaft diameter? I have a 3/4” split coupling around here somewhere that I intended to use on my 32 but that is incompatible with my vee drive. Not too many 3/4” shafts out there but if your 27 is one of them I might be able to make you an offer you won’t want to refuse.
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Thank you.
All the other stuff came with the boat and all is of unknown age. Years ago I made this my last boat so putting $ into her gives me no heartburn- she's staying in the family.
The cutless replacement is a maybe. I detect strange sounds coming from that area when in gear.
I want a dripless put in and
I think best practice is replace the coupling and shaft.
As for the log- Original? I want to make a determination on all.
I believe the engine has to come out due to very limited access.
Technically I can do all this BUT my physical condition limits this to near zero possibility. I'm gonna have this professionally done and I will have a say in all steps (which might cost more-haha). That's what the haul out in January is all about.Bill McLean
'76 Ericson 27
:valhalla:
Norfolk, VA
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