Bowen Island Paint Job

[Marty Levenson]

head torqued (cold)

Hey Carl,

I appreciate your comments. I rely on the forum for a reality check, so don't worry about being discouraging.

I agree that testing the torque on a single stud wouldn't have been wise...was just wondering if that was an option. Hadn't thought about the undue localized stress that would create! I am not used to JB Weld so, yes, do have a hard time trusting it. However, the kit came with it, and Don and others endorse it, so I went with it.

I think you might be confused about the drill bit size because of the picture. The kit came with a 7/16 repair stud. The hole in the block was drilled to 3/8" and then was tapped to 7/16. The larger, 7/16, drill bit pictured, was to enlarge the head to accommodate the bigger stud.

My error was probably cross threading the stud when I installed it with JB Weld. To be clear, I have since removed the head, re-tapped to 7/16 and re-JB welded a new repair stud in. Put the head back on right away (reused the gaskets as they looked good) and torqued all studs "hand tight"and left it alone for 48 hours to fully set.

This AM I torqued all - in sequence - to 30 lbs. The manual says 30 is adequate, and advisable if there are stud problems. All held fine so far. Will re-torque all two more times at temperature, as per the manual.

Glad you think she's looking good: yes, a lot of time..and a lot of learning. Before this I thought that taking the head off was major surgery, but now it is routine.

-Marty

[Marty Levenson]

water jacket

Hey Shawn,

Same here: bought eight 1.5" hex blots to cut down....couldn't find studs on a Sunday.

Yes: took the head off to re-do the head studs (see previous post)...and will again if I need to go to a repair bushing. For sure want everything good before she goes back in the boat.

Thanks!

[Carl-T705]

Marty, To tap a a 3/8 thread, the drill size is not 1/4. I can't remember what the bit size is off the top of my head. Glad you got the stud repaired.

[ILikeRust]

I am not used to JB Weld so, yes, do have a hard time trusting it.

Two tips:

Mix it WELL. You want to completely eliminate any black streaks until the whole mass equally consistently dark grey. And then mix it a little more just for good measure.

Don't try it when it's too cold - either the JB Weld itself or the ambient temperature. Shouldn't be an issue right now, but if it's cold, it takes forever to cure - if it even will cure right at all.

The other tip I mentioned above - make sure the surfaces of whatever you're JB Welding together are spotless and have been well-cleaned with solvent to remove any oil or grease and are well dried of the solvent as well.

Let it cure fully 24 hours and it's almost like steel or concrete.

[Marty Levenson]

JB Weld

Thanks for that, Rust. Yes: done a fair bit of epoxy work in my day. OD'd after re-coring the foredeck a couple years ago! Appreciate the check list. As above, the trouble stud is in, the head on, and torqued (cold) to 30 lbs. Will do the two hot torques this weekend.

JB Weld is my new best friend...hope it lasts!

[ILikeRust]

Thanks for that, Rust. Yes: done a fair bit of epoxy work in my day. OD'd after re-coring the foredeck a couple years ago! Appreciate the check list. As above, the trouble stud is in, the head on, and torqued (cold) to 30 lbs. Will do the two hot torques this weekend.

JB Weld is my new best friend...hope it lasts!

Got my fingers and toes crossed for ya!

[Marty Levenson]

Water Jacket repair

I am putting everything back together for a bench test...hopefully tomorrow.

I JB Welded in studs as shown, and replaced the gasket. One of the studs doesn't seem 100% as I tightened it: I'll see if it leaks soon enough. Used Aviation Perm on the gasket (both sides), inside of cover, block face, studs, and backs of washers.

Changing A4 from RWC to Indigo 1 electric pump FWC, hoses went to 5/8" ID. I added a couple holes in the Tee inlet. I figure that not impeding the flow was more important than getting the angle of the flow exactly right. As you might be able to tell in the photo, there is a 5/16" hole aimed up and back at 45 degrees (though it is aimed the wrong way in the photo), a 1/4" hole straight in, and a 3/16" hole aimed forward. Tightly threaded, and installed that with Perm #2.

Next issue was routing the hose to the electric water pump. The bigger diameter meant it was getting whacked by the alt belt if I left it where it was. Tried running a brass pipe aft past the belt, but there was no room to get by the distributor. Tried aiming that pipe up and back, but that would mean problems every time I want to open the distributor. Tried a 6" pipe straight out at 90 degrees from the engine (shown dry fit in third photo) , but that seemed vulnerable to vibration and accidents...as well as a potential problem if I ever get to install this baby in the boat. Finally decided simple was best: just a hose barb at 90 degrees to engine....then run the hose in a gentle curve away and then aft (installed in fourth photo).

[Marty Levenson]

studs holding....but one leak...

My engine has been run up to 175 degrees twice and all studs torqued to 30 lbs. twice. Yahoooo! By the way, as she's on the bench (no load), I got the temp up by letting the cooling water in the bucket get warmer (turned off the garden hose).

Only problem on top now is that at temp one stud still leaks between the thread and the nut. (Not the re-tapped, JB welded stud, btw). Can't see taking the head off again to try and fix it. When cool remove the nut and put some perm #2 in the void and on the thread? Suggestion most welcome.

Otherwise looks good: no head gasket leak. Will test compression later.

Thanks!

[edwardc]

Only problem on top now is that at temp one stud still leaks between the thread and the nut. (Not the re-tapped, JB welded stud, btw). Can't see taking the head off again to try and fix it. When cool remove the nut and put some perm #2 in the void and on the thread?...

I had the same problem on my first engine. A little permatex AND a copper crush washer under the nut fixed it right up.

[Marty Levenson]

No more leak! But noisy in reverse...?

Thanks, Ed.....copper washer and Perm #2 seem to work.

Noticed that if I put her full in reverse (even at idle) the tranny gets much noisier....a little clattery, even. Just spinning in reverse (light pressure on the shifter) and there is no more noise than in forward....pretty quiet. Could this be a problem?

Thanks!

[Marty Levenson]

re: reverse

...also noted the "neutral" spot (6-5) is hard to find. Could loosening the adjusting nut (6-4 fig 7) fix both problems?

Thanks!

[sastanley]

Marty, looks great. One suggestion I have is wherever you can, use smooth cast fittings for the water cooling instead of those machined ones (i.e. the 'tee' near the sideplate). The cast ones have much less restriction inside and flow better. Also, I ran my hose forward out of the fitting and to the elec. pump, since there was no room for 5/8" hose going aft for me either. I'd be a little worried about the thin threads in the plate holding that big ol' long pipe nipple out there.

If you go check this thread --> http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5286 <-- I think it shows the hose routing. As a matter of fact, I need to update that thread. - If you need more pics, find Neil's thread on FWC..he is better with the pictures. Here is a link to that --> http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5008

I think you'll need to do a video of the reverse for us to hear what you are hearing...it is naturally noisier in reverse because of the way the sun/planetary gears mesh and spin. It is more like a loud screaming whine, especially when you throttle up.

[Marty Levenson]

Thanks, Shawn

I'll shoot a video on Sunday....life getting in the way til then!

Picture #4 (simple hose barb straight out of the tee) is how I have it set up now. I didn't like that big chunk of brass (picture #3) sticking out either. Thanks for the advice on smooth vs machined fittings anyway: that is sure to be useful elsewhere.

I'm thinking I may as well go ahead and adjust the reverse gear as there is almost zero "neutral" spot....and see if the sound changes.

-Marty

[Marty Levenson]

wet exhaust fitting

Is it okay to use a brass barb where my hot water mixes with the exhaust gas at the muffler? With dielectric silicone compound?

Thanks!

[Marty Levenson]

engine install

Can anyone give me pointers on installing my rebuilt A4. Hoping that will happen in two weeks. Plan to use the same halyard method of lifting that worked removing the old A4.

Do I plunk her down and then use a lever to lift the A4 and add shims before lag bolting?

Any trick to hooking the shaft to the output coupling as it goes in?

How important is the shim material? Can I just use SS washers? Seems like I will need something thinner to fine-tune.

Any other tips appreciated!

-Marty