NAPA coil

[joe_db]

The A4 is a relatively undemanding engine as far as ignition goes *except for being in a damp/wet environment*. IMHO the biggst gain from EI is that you won't have damp ignition starting issues. If you need the EI just to make your engine work it has issues.

I have the Indigo E/I and after running it for around 10 years without a resistor, I called Tom for an opinion. He asked me to try a resistor on mine to see if I could detect any "cold starting or while running issues". The E/I hot feed is on the resisted side with the coil. I never did check the voltage, I just installed the resistor supplied to me. I have been using it for a bit over a year now and did not notice that I had made any changes at all. The E/I will work will with lowered voltages, as long as you stay within suggested voltages. I absolutely did not notice anything and I must say it did suprise me a bit.

Dave Neptune

[ndutton]

I have been using it (Indigo supplied resistor) for a bit over a year now and did not notice that I had made any changes at all. The E/I will work will with lowered voltages, as long as you stay within suggested voltages.

Your experience mirrors mine, no noticeable change in performance at all.

The difference is Indigo uses a fixed resistance value for all applications whereas we recommended tailoring the resistance to individual situations accounting for alternator output, system voltage drop and existing internal coil resistance all of which vary from boat to boat. I think Indigo's resistor is a little more aggressive than our calculated recommendations but keeping the eye on the prize, as long as the components are protected from destructive influences without performance degradation it's all good.

[joe_db]

Does everyone using the resistors use the start terminal on the solenoid? IIRC that is what it is there for - to bypass the resistor during cranking.

Your experience mirrors mine, no noticeable change in performance at all.

The difference is Indigo uses a fixed resistance value for all applications whereas we recommended tailoring the resistance to individual situations accounting for alternator output, system voltage drop and existing internal coil resistance all of which vary from boat to boat. I think Indigo's resistor is a little more aggressive than our calculated recommendations but keeping the eye on the prize, as long as the components are protected from destructive influences without performance degradation it's all good.

[ndutton]

Does everyone using the resistors use the start terminal on the solenoid? IIRC that is what it is there for - to bypass the resistor during cranking.

I do not. It may be of greater importance with a smallish or depleted starting battery where the starter load draws the voltage down significantly. My start battery is an automotive G24 and and to date (fingers crossed) I've had no need for the resistor bypass.

edit:
Please remember, all this resistor talk only applies to coils with insufficient internal resistance at the outset.

[marthur]

Tell me more about the start terminal.

[ndutton]

It's actually the 'R' terminal on the solenoid. It gets battery voltage when the start button is pushed (or key). Some use that voltage to bypass the OPSS for electric fuel pump operation during starting but it can be also used to bypass the ballast resistor during starting as well.

I'd suggest if the R terminal bypass is needed, either the resistor is too aggressive or the combination of battery capacity/condition and wiring harness voltage drop need attention.

[joe_db]

In cars with ballast resistors this was what the extra (R) terminal did - boost the spark at startup.

You need to pick one OR the other. If you connect the fuel pump and the coil the OPSS would be defeated.

[ndutton]

Thanks Joe, my post was not clear on that point. Either - Or.

[roadnsky]

Does everyone using the resistors use the start terminal on the solenoid? IIRC that is what it is there for - to bypass the resistor during cranking.

I do not either.
No issues...

[Mark S]

Baffled

Hi folks.

I got the Echlin IC14 coil and installed it over the weekend. It measured 3.5 ohms across the terminals and rather than screw around now with the ICR 5500 resistor I just installed the coil normally. I can install the resistor at my leisure another time if I feel I need it.

It may have been wishful thinking on my part when I originally thought the coil needed replacing because the old girl still won't start. I have spark out of the coil (saw it and felt it!) which I think means that everything ahead of the coil is functioning properly. However, I have no spark out of the distributor. I determined this by disconnecting a plug wire and holding the electrode close to the block and having Alicia turn the key, the same way I checked for spark out of the coil.

The rotor and cap are brand new. The wires are brand new. Thinking there may have been a problem with one or the other, I replaced them both with brand new ones. Still nothing. The only things I have ever changed on the distributor since installing the Ignitor are the rotor, cap and wires. I thought maybe the electrode off the coil wire was not inserted into the cap completely so I pulled the boot back and made sure the electrode was inserted fully. Still nothing.

Anybody got any ideas, because I'm stumped.

Mark S

[Marian Claire]

I'm drawing a blank of its name. Is the little black ring that fits on the distributor shaft for the EI properly seated? Do you have a spare EI? Dan S/V Marian Claire
Edit: Magnetic ring

[JOHN COOKSON]

Has the distributor been rotated somehow so the spark is occurs while the rotor is between terminals on the cap? Put #1 on compression and have a look see if the rotor is pointing to the right area on the cap.
Best I can do for now.

TRUE GRIT

[Ball Racing]

Try a old cap and rotor.
I have seen a new cap with the little button not protruding down as much as it's suppose too.
I have also seen a rotor made wrong, and the springy metal strap not making contact with cap.

Also as mentioned if the EI magnetic ring is not down all the way it will not let the rotor seat fully, and it may not be turning.

[Mark S]

Stupid me, I threw out the old cap and rotor before all this stuff arose. I already checked the magnet and it is down all the way. The rotor is seated well, too. Your thought about the button is a good one and it fits the facts. Also the rotor contact. I'll fiddle with those and report back.

[romantic comedy]

FWIW, a quiock way to check the coil:

Remove the distributor cap and rotor.

Turn on the ignition switch.

You need the points to be in a closed position. Then open and close the points, while holding the coil wire near the ground.

You will see a spark, hopefully.


I have no resistor on the original 1974 coil, so I dont use the terminal on the starter for start up.

BTW, can we just say 3.1 ohms, and not 3.18363538. I dont think we can be that accurate...