1966

[Marian Claire]

"Even a blind squirrel finds a nut every now and then" This past week I had the great fortune to obtain a 1965 A-4 # 77345. Intact and in "good" condition. It had been running until it was removed about 8 months ago. Some water got into the cylinders during removal, and she was slightly seized. A couple of doses of MMO and she broke loose and turns smoothly using my hand crank. I plan to use some of the parts as spares on the MC. The starter and alternator both checked out fine at the shop. My main question is how best to prep the block etc for extended storage? The oil in the pan is old but no signs of water. I have, using the thumb test, good compression on 1 and 3, #2 is weak and nothing on #4. I believe this will improve with more MMO. Also how do you store your spare parts on the boat for extended cruising: starter, alternator, carb etc? Dan S/V Marian Claire
Edit: See post #7

[Mo]

Dan,

For the Block: It depends on how far you want to go with it. Build a little stand for it and ensure you can turn the crank in a full circle.

There should be two drains on the block. Screw those out and move the block around to drain the fluid. Blow some compressed air through the passages or leave them out a couple of days in the dry heat... so everything drys up inside. It wouldn't be a bad idea to spray a rust inhibitor such as "Rust Check" or "Crown" into the water ports...it soaks into the metal and stops rust. Put the drain plugs back in.

If you are removing the head you can deal with the valves...otherwise, pull the side plate and see if you can free them. Cont with the MMO or some other oil if you don't want to haul it apart. Likely valves stuck on cyl 2 & 4. Once a month turn the engine over by crank number of times. This will get oil up around bearings, crank, cylinder walls, rings etc and help avoid rust on portions of same...$10 gives you an oil change on that engine so it's a good idea.
Store it inside. That should keep your block usable.

For the items you want to take with you:

Ensure they are moisture free, spray with a light oil and .... get this>>bring them to a place to have them vaccume sealed in plastic ( I had my done at a packaging plant - cost...case of beer). I figured I'd seen parts come that way so I tried it. Keeps ambient boat moisture off during prolonged storage on boat.

That should be a decent start without getting into too much expense.

[Marian Claire]

Thanks for the info. I have used zip bags and Lock-n-locks in the past. The vacuum wrap sounds great. No zip and less space. Dan S/V Marian Claire

[dvd]

You mean to tell me you guys bring extra parts like starters and alternators with you on the boat. I have extra plugs, extra fuel filter a few other various parts and some tools but that iis it. Wow talk about being prepared. I suppose if your going off cruising to Mexico might be agood idea but don't most of us just go out for a week or few days coupla times a year.

Also, has anyone ever needed any of this stuff while out somewhere?

DVD

[Marian Claire]

I do tend to take long trips, 4 to 5 months at a time and to some "remote" areas. Southwest Fla, Abacos. But even running up and down the ICW I want to be able to fix it and keep moving. I try and have a identical/plug and play part for anything that can be easily pulled and replaced. Easier to just replace and then clean/check/rebuild later when you have more time. Water pump, fuel pump, distributor, alternator, starter, black pipe to rebuild exhaust, and all the small stuff, plugs, wires, dist cap, rotor, rebuild kits, hose, filters, etc. I have had an electric fuel pump crap out as I waited for a bridge opening. Dropped the hook put in the spare and made the opening. I now have a spare pump permanently mounted so it is as simple as two hose and one wire. I learned to carry exhaust parts after spending most of a day tracking down the simple fittings I needed in the Key Largo area. Replaced a bad coil and a failed oil pressure line on the same day in the Abacos. A fellow A-4 owner lost his main jet adjustment half way across the gulf stream, it fell into the bilge never to be seen again. He was dumping fuel in the bilge so he used a drill bit to stop the leak and limped on to the Abacos but was getting terrible MPG. We crossed paths a few days later as I was repairing my cracked rudder. I gave him one of my spare adjustments and he helped me with the rudder. We were able to beef up my screwed on plywood repair with some of his west system epoxy. And rehanging the rudder would have been a real bear if not imposable by myself.
Sorry for the long BS. Dan S/V Marian Claire

[anglosax]

spares aboard

We took a 2 month cruise around the Bahamas in a diesel[sorry] Grand Banks trawler, and the owner had enough spares onboard to damn well build another one- his reasoning - It will seem very inexpensive when you are 30 miles offshore with no engine- too true.
However we broke down with the only spare part not onboard - a high pressure fuel line !!!

[Marian Claire]

It dawned on me this weekend that the engine I just got, # 77345, was a lower # that the one on the MC #77414. I checked the block and sure enough 2/22/65.
After soaking for a couple of days the #2 cylinder had improved compression. But still nothing on #4. I followed advice and pulled the valve cover and #4 exhaust was hung up. I could not tap it down so used my flat bar to gently pry it down. Hand crank, stick, pry, MMO, hand crank, stick, pry etc for 8 or 10 reps. Now she has compression on all cylinders.

Next thing is checking /cleaning the cooling system. If I remove the manifold and the head gasket is intact I can flush the cooling loop with no danger of water entering the cylinders correct??? Dan S/V Marian Claire How do you change a thread title?

[ILikeRust]

If I remove the manifold and the head gasket is intact I can flush the cooling loop with no danger of water entering the cylinders correct??? Dan S/V Marian Claire How do you change a thread title?

You can flush it with the manifold in place, unless you've got some reason to remove the manifold.

Don't think you can change the thread title once started...

[Marian Claire]

A few pics and a question. I removed the manifold to soak in an acid bath and acid flushed the head/block. Boy did it need it, but had good flow when I finished. But can not tell if all the ports/passageways are open. Also changed the oil and will add some antifreeze to the cooling system. What is pic # 5? You can see it in #2 wedged between the manifold and the block. Wire was to ground. ??? temp sensor. Strange wet/dry/??muffler. Dan S/V Marian Claire

[ndutton]

Looks like a temperature sender to me. And that exhaust is a standpipe. Congratulations on that. The configuration of your boat will be the determinant if it's usable.

[genefa]

Yes! to DVD

Last summer encountered engine problems on cruise from western Lake Erie to Buffalo. Originally, thought my problem was dirty gas; no. Turned out to be bad alternator; got that re-built in Erie, PA-great job. Headed for Buffalo the next day; engine quit. Had my second tow into Erie! Had a defective coil. Replaced it (marine store thought I needed a certain kind.) Replaced and headed out for a alternative destination; engine quit again-coil extremely hot to the touch. Put original coil back in; hubbled to port. Frustrated, abandoned ship and went to home port by land-I took both coils with me. Went to my home port mechanic-I was sold the wrong coil in Erie. Got the correct coil; took it back to the boat; installled it and made it home with no problems! I now keep a spare (correct) coil with me. When you cruise for weeks or month at a time you need parts that you know are correct.
Gene