Balmar Alternator Installation and Test

[joe_db]

PT 1:
I recently got a Balmar 812-65 from Fleabay for cheap new in box I'll have some details on installing it shortly, but here is the summary:
This alternator was sold by Balmar with their trademark white and blue paint, but inside it is based on a Prestolite 65 amp alternator. Prestolite is related to Motorola and Leece-Neville, so this looks a lot like our stock 37 and 50 amp Motorolas.

I will follow up with some photos detailing what needs doing to install it, but to cut to the chase, here are the results: It seems to do better than any of my other alternators at low speeds. I saw 27 amps just off idle - maybe 1200-1400 RPM or so. Neither my Motorolas nor 120 amp 10si will do this. At full speed cruise, say 2300 RPM +/-, I loaded the system up with a hair dryer and saw 55 amps out This is obviously vastly better than the 37 amp Motorola. My 50 amp Motorola might maybe hit 40 amps on a good day and the 10si maybe 47 or so, maybe 50 briefly.

[ndutton]

As you continue to assess the new alternator's performance please keep a watchful eye on its temperature at low RPM. Impressive output is one thing but the fan's ability to cool the alternator under load is important too.

[joe_db]

Here you can see the new next to the old. The case are nearly identical and the same mounting bolts work. The regulator is off the old Motorola right now and the new Balmar has a connection block that replaces the regulator. Both ends of the field coil are brought out to terminals. The field terminals are the top connections with the two arrows pointing at them. One field connection is jumpered over to the ground connection and the other one will be used for the regulator connection. Note this is an isolated ground alternator. You have to connect to both the positive and negative terminals. This is a great benefit if you want to add a shunt to the alternator, it is always easier and safer to insert into the negative side.
The two AC taps are covered and not presently used, but some tachs and some regulators want AC connections, so you have them available if needed.

[joe_db]

I found out you cannot use the pulley from a Motorola alternator. The shaft on the Motorola is smaller and is keyed as well. I used the pulley from a 10si and ended up needing two washers to get a good fit. The washers go under the nut in FRONT of the pulley, not behind it. Note the directional fan on the Balmar vs. bidirectional on the Motorola.

[joe_db]

Test run. Obviously I need to permanently connect to the field and replace the ratty ground wire I had lying around. So far max output is 55 amps, which is pretty good

[thatch]

"Isolated Ground"

Joe, Thank's for the "isolated ground" comment. Some time ago I purchased the same alternator along with a basket of A4 parts. I ran it on my test engine not knowing that it needed it's own full ground and got no charge out of it. I'll try it again, hopefully with better results.
Tom

[joe_db]

Do you have a regulator for it? I can describe a DIY test regulator you can make for about $2 to just see if it works.
There are a few more of these here if anyone wants one:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Balmar-14V-65A-Marine-High-Performance-Alternator-Model-812-65-USCG-Approved-/282558619701?hash=item41c9ce6035:g:K8AAAOSwHnFV6iJy&vxp=mtr

[Van_Isle]

Ah yes. $32 for the alternator and $74 (!!!) for shipping from Lynden Washington to Victoria BC .... plus exchange rate to CAD of course and probably get dinged with duty and taxes as well. I should be driving right by there going to Portland next week but I doubt they offer pick-up (if it isn't in the listing then unlikely). Ah well, don't really need it anyway.

[thatch]

Joe, Knowing whether or not my Balmar gen is working is a good start, so I'd like to see your temporary regulator. Buying one of their $300 multi-stage regulators is really out of the question so unless it can be used as a more conventional alternator, it will probably remain being a pretty paper-weight.
Thank's, Tom

[joe_db]

Hook it all up and get a light socket you can connect to and couple of jumper wires.
With the engine running *briefly* connect one jumper from + to the field. This will drive the alternator to full output. You will hear the engine slow down and see the battery voltage rise. This is enough to confirm that it works
You can experiment by putting light bulbs between + and the field connection. The higher the wattage, the more power from the alternator. This is an old time field emergency repair for a dead regulator.

There are any number of aftermarket single stage regulators around if you do some google-fu and the one from the stock Motorola could probably be made to work. You are looking for a "B circuit" external regulator. {The "B" circuit type voltage regulator grounds one brush inside the alternator. Then the voltage regulator controls the positive power to the other brush which runs to the rotor coil inside the alternator. Control of this positive power into the rotor coil turns the alternator on and off.}

Here are a couple I found just poking around:

http://www.motorcityreman.com/vorev12.html

https://acdcmarineinc.com/shop/engine_accessories/transpo-12v-regulator/

Looks like around $70 or so.

For less money:

http://store.alternatorparts.com/partnof540xhdfordoed9pz-10316-ae2pz-10316-af0az-10316-af0pz-10316-ae4az-10316-bgr-540-agr-540-bgr-803.aspx

Sterling marine 3 stage: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sterling-Pro...xUyWLR&vxp=mtr

IF you don't want your alternator, we seem to have a Canadian A4ian suffering from shipping to Canada issues that might like it

[thatch]

Joe, Thank's for those leads, I'm kind of back-logged with other projects but I'll definitely give the simple test a try.
Tom

[joe_db]

Got the real wiring on. I love the hydraulic wire crimper, it beats the hell out of those bang-it-with-a-hammer things

[Van_Isle]

That's one of the Harbor Freight models? How do you find the die-sizes?

[joe_db]

Yes it is Harbor Freight. I think the dies might be a little small. The 4 gauge die REALLY squeezes the 4 gauge lugs. Those things are NEVER going to come off. You could likely go one gauge bigger on some of them.
If you are cheap and hardly ever make cables, a local West Marine with a Nicropress crimper in their rigging section comes in handy too
EDIT - the release is a valve, so you don't have to go to full crimp, you can release at any point.

[Van_Isle]

Yes unfortunately those offshore-made hydraulic crimpers seem to have dies that don't match any standard. Seems they probably re-labeled the dies from metric 'equivalents' .... not so flattering review of them here: https://marinehowto.com/making-your-own-battery-cables/

I'm lucky ... my wife's nephew is an electrician. I have a big Greenlee hand crimper (K09-2GL) on loan, that's rated to do up to 4/0 cable.