Excess Fuel?

[sandiegomike]

It has come up before . . . . .

Now that is cool. I might make one just to have around.

[sandiegomike]

One comment - having been guilty of 'knowing I was at TDC', twice even.

The balloon and thumb techniques will tell you which stroke ends at TDC, but then adjust so that the pin on the driveshaft is exactly vertical - THAT is truly TDC.

At that point, carefully (but only visually) align your #1 plug wire with the rotor, and assuming all else is good, the engine should start right up.

I will be back down there this weekend and will give it a shot. I downloaded the Moyer carb tutorial and will review that also. Thanks guys.

[Hymodyne]

It has come up before . . . . .

when working on frankenfour, I used the tips of disposable gloves in place of the balloon;

[sandiegomike]

Engine running - SUCCESS!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ok, the engine is up and running. I cleaned the carb again, adjusted the floats, drained all the gas in the lines and filters and added more gas. Still no success. Then I remembered a guy that used to work on Atomic 4 engines in Oceanside Harbor. His name is Buck and lives in Bakersfield CA. I thought what the heck and gave him a call. He no longer makes doctor's visits to harbors. I told him what "we" have all done over the last couple months. Of course, I did have to do the valve work because I did not have compression.

So back to Buck. I told him I had copmpression, I had spark, I was timed and had fuel. He asked how old the boat is? Almost 50 years I said. Although, the part don't appear to be 50 years old. Buck said disconnect the exhaust and give it a try. He said take 2 asprins and call me back. In 5 minutes the engine was running, although quite loud without any exhaust.

So, I have eliminated a couple parts as being clogged and it comes down to this part being clogged. I know it is part of the exhaust, but not sure if there is a specific name for it?

Any recommendations to unclog this bugger?

Honestly, I don't know how to thank you guys. If you were, or are local to Oceanside, I would be happy to buy several rounds beers. Thank you so much for all you have done an communicated. And a special thanks to a best friend that never didn't show up to help, Bajahaha Jim, thank you.

[JOHN COOKSON]

Scrap it. It's done it's thing in life. The whole exhaust system needs to be rebuilt. Well maybe not the muffler.
But, before you scrap it go to a hardware store with the old hot section in hand and buy the necessary plumbing nipples (they're 1 1/4 inch) to build a new one. Black iron is preferred over galvanized because galvanize releases toxic zinc fumes when hot.

TRUE GRIT

Edit: The specific name is"the hot section".

[edwardc]

Mike,

A couple of observations on rebuilding your exhaust hot section:

1. You're going to find it very difficult to remove the close nipple from the engine flange. When I did mine, the time/money tradeoff was clearly in favor of simply buying a new flange from Moyer. YMMV
2. If you have the room, consider increasing the height of the loop as much as possible while retaining several inches clearance from any fiberglass or wood. This will improve your resistance to backflooding in the event of a non-start cranking session.
3. Consider relocating the water injection point lower on the loop. A good rule of thumb is that it should be at least 4" lower than the floor of the exhaust passage at the top of the loop. This helps prevent splashing and vapor from migrating back towards the manifold and causing sticky valves.
4. The flange, flange gasket, injection point, and heat wrap you'll need are all available from Moyer.

Here's a link to the photo album I made when I rebuilt my exhaust:

http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/album.php?albumid=73

[sastanley]

Mike,

A couple of observations on rebuilding your exhaust hot section:

1. You're going to find it very difficult to remove the close nipple from the engine flange. When I did mine, the time/money tradeoff was clearly in favor of simply buying a new flange from Moyer. YMMV
2. If you have the room, consider increasing the height of the loop as much as possible while retaining several inches clearance from any fiberglass or wood. This will improve your resistance to backflooding in the event of a non-start cranking session.
3. Consider relocating the water injection point lower on the loop. A good rule of thumb is that it should be at least 4" lower than the floor of the exhaust passage at the top of the loop. This helps prevent splashing and vapor from migrating back towards the manifold and causing sticky valves.
4. The flange, flange gasket, injection point, and heat wrap you'll need are all available from Moyer.

Here's a link to the photo album I made when I rebuilt my exhaust:

http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/album.php?albumid=73

Especially a +1 on #1. Some day I'll cut/burn/heat the old pipe off the flange in the garage when I have to rebuild this again in another 8-10 years.

[sandiegomike]

Thanks! all excellent points and guidance. I will take the old one with me to buy new parts. Ed, awesome photos.

I orderd parts from Moyer Marine this morning and already have shipment confirmation. -including the flange. Mine is pretty worn.

I will take pictures along the way and post.

[azazzera]

Pressure gauge

Is the adapter or "t" fitting they sell with the gauge on amazon work with 5/16 hose. I noticed the o/d of the ends are 3/8. Just a 16 larger than the hose but want to make sure. Thanks

[roadnsky]

Is the adapter or "t" fitting they sell with the gauge on amazon work with 5/16 hose.

Assuming you mean the MR GASKET fuel pressure gauge?
Yes, mine worked with 5/16 hose.


PS - Just to keep us on-topic...
Mike, please also heed Ed's advice to try and add more rise to the hot section IF possible.

[sandiegomike]

Assuming you mean the MR GASKET fuel pressure gauge?
Yes, mine worked with 5/16 hose.


PS - Just to keep us on-topic...
Mike, please also heed Ed's advice to try and add more rise to the hot section IF possible.

Would love to ad more rise, but have almost no room.

[Dave Neptune]

ike, if you can't raise the "riser" part just lower the water injection point. My exhaust had to go down right from the manifold. My injection point is about 8 inches below the exit elbow. No problems!!!

Dave Neptune

[sandiegomike]

New exhaust hot section.

This is about the best I could do with the rise. I have very little vertical real estate, so I just copied the prior system for the most part. I placed the water coolant barb fitting lower in the exhaust.

Here are a few pictures. These show the old system, clogged portion, pipe nipple for coolant brazed into a 90 degree elbow. I ended up using galvanized because that was readily availabe at Home Depot. Also shown is the new assembled hot section that Bajahaha Jim assembled. I did help with the assembly - watched and drank Baja's beer! What are friends for?

I'll put the flange and high temp wrap on tomorrow, install and fire up the system. Will let you know how it goes.

[ndutton]

Please be advised the off gassing of the zinc galvanizing is toxic at a minimum, possibly even deadly in a confined space. Stay safe.

[BunnyPlanet169]

Exhaust Exshmost - what's under the yellow covers in your shop?