Choke adjustment

[JOHN COOKSON]

Maybe I'm Over Thinking Here.......

My choke arm is the stock pivot, I did cobble a swivel mount for the sheath end myself. Works like a charm and the cable moves a bit easier. I did this as my old stock cable in the cockpit was about 12 feet long. After redoing my engine box about 25 years ago I eliminated the choke from the cockpit and mounted on the control panel on the box itself at the nav station. I always "cold start" the engine before taking off from inside using my remote permanently mounted "starter only" button on the inside of the engine box.
Dave Neptune

If there was zero friction in the Bowden cable wouldn't the choke butter fly flop around and choke the engine a bit when the engine was warmed up and running underway? Some Bowden cable friction is good. To much friction not so good?

? for DN. Don't quite understand your set up. Can you start the engine from the cockpit or do you have go to the engine box every time you start the engine?

TRUE GRIT

[Marty Levenson]

inside starter button

Hey Dave - I thought starting the engine with anyone below decks was a no-no?

[ndutton]

Very interesting Tom. What is the stroke of the actuator? Are there limit stops? How much time from closed choke to full open? Is it a screw drive or solenoid type? Amperage? Voltage range?

[Dave Neptune]

John, more than enough friction in the cable to hold the choke just fine. Got tired of wrestling with the old. A new one would be very stiff after one season, so I shortened it.

I can start when working on the engine below or from the cockpit, I do need to reach down to the easily accessed panel to set or release the choke.

Marty, my engine is in the middle of the boat and the box opens from the top for very easy access to all.

My "cold starting procedure";
First get the ign key from the water valve and turn on the valve. Place key in switch and start the blower, key still OFF. I then remove the engine cover and open the fuel valve on my MOUNTED fuel pressure gage and prime the system with the mechanical pump's bail. Check pressure once "pressurized" after checking the oil to see that the pressure was maintained IE no needle and seat leak in the carb. I then do a visual for leaks and once verified I turn the key to run and set the choke. I use my remote start button below so I am hands and NOSE on the engine when starting, this allows for a good visual inspection of all lines and hoses. I can usually release the choke in less than a minute but keep the box open for a few minutes again checking for leaks before closing the box and getting ready for departure. If it does not start right away I close the water valve until she does and this seldom happens.

Dave Neptune

[Dave Neptune]

Tom, are you using an "electric automatic" choke or a momentary like on most OB's?

Dave Neptune

[thatch]

E-choke info

Jerry, Dave, Niel and All, The actuator is a 12v. door lock unit that cost about $6. It's throw is only about 3/4" so it was necessary to drill an extra hole in the choke arm slightly closer to it's pivot point to gain enough travel to fully close the choke. It's action is similar to an outboards e-choke in that it is open or closed, no in-between. My start procedure is similar to Dave's with some minor differences. Bear in mind that I have parallel oil pressure and water temp gauges along with ignition, start and fuel pump override switches at the engine. Since a Catalina 30 has it's intake water valve located next to the engine under a cabin seat, it is necessary to innitially prep for the first start at the engine, which I consider a good thing. After doing a visual and smell test to check for fuel leaks, I turn on the blower and use the fuel pump override to fill the carb. Next I open the throttle about 1/4 and close the choke fully. Next step is to hit the start button and wait for the engine to start and "lope" a little. In the case of my engine, with any of my 3 carbs, I can then open the choke completely and she will smooth out and begin the warmup cycle. At this point I open the water intake valve and go to the transom to check for water flow. Since I have fresh water cooling I also open the coolant cap and check for circulation there. As we all know, So. Cal . water and air temps are warmer than most other areas so it might be hit and miss for an electric to work for those in cooler climates.

[ndutton]

Sounds like you have already resolved the only problem I've ever had with all or nothing electric chokes by being able to switch it at will.

The one issue I had was during the ramp up to Y2K, a customer just knew Armageddon was looming so he went goofy for full independent off the grid survival mode. To that end we installed solar panels, battery storage, automatic generator backup, select emergency circuits wired to a backup power emergency panel and a management system with transfer switching to control it all. The way the choke worked on the gasoline generator was full on activated by the starting circuit. The problem was it did the same thing on a warm startup (typical during testing at least) and would instantly flood the engine. Being automatic the starter would continue to crank and the choke would continue to flood until the starting battery was depleted.

We recommended an inline temperature switch to prevent this but Y2K came and went, the sun rose in the morning and the crisis was averted so nothing was done.

[thatch]

It has been my experience that the choke is only needed once during a normal sailing day. Apparently there is enough residual fuel in the cylinders, even after several hours of not running, that she will re-fire.
Tom

[ndutton]

It has been my experience that the choke is only needed once during a normal sailing day. Apparently there is enough residual fuel in the cylinders, even after several hours of not running, that she will re-fire.
Tom

That's my experience too with the A-4. My other manual choke engines (lawn mower 4 stroke OHV, 2 stroke outboard, 2 stroke generator and 2 stroke chain saw) are a little more cold blooded though, require choke after a short off time.

[Mo]

Change PRN

I've changed my choke cable about every 3 years...that's including lubricating it. My NGk XR4 spark plugs have been in place longer than my choke cable. Once it gets stiff it's done so replace it....they are about $20. I set mine up with a bend in it so it has full travel....but once corrosion sets in, on the knob end (always) I put in a new one...takes 20 minutes.