rev gear fwd adjust: where to start?

[Brent W]

So when I was adjusting my reversing gear last fall, with no clue what I was doing, I unscrewed the adjusting collar too far and it came off the threads, along with the friction discs...

After about 4 hours of trying, with horrible access and interference issues, I got all the discs lined up and the adjusting collar back on.

Since then I have read up extensively and have a better understanding of the adjustment procedure.

The problem is, Where do I start with the adjusting procedure?

Don states that "one notch is sufficient to adjust most of the time" and that there is a sweet spot so precise that they ended up designing a new collar with more notches.

On the carb idle adjusting screw, they say, "all the way in, then back out 1 to 1-1/2 turns" Is there a rule of thumb like that for the forward adjusting collar?

First try I was way loose, with NO forward. Second try with big adjustment, I had 1/4 forward power. I feel like I'm guessing.

Thanks

BW

[Nanook]

First thing, disconnect the helm control linkage. There shouldn't be anything hooked to the transmission shift lever as binding of the control or wires can throw you off.

Then move the lever and see what happens. Adjust as needed. Into forward it should "thunk" a little when it engages. Solid thunk. Does it only go a 1/4 way forward to the ring or do you only get 1/4 forward against the lines?


Can we ask why you were doing it last fall in the first place? Was it not right or were you learning your engine better?

[Al Schober]

Brent,
I suggest you apply some torque and see if the disk pack will hold it - I'll pull a number out of the air and suggest 50 ft-lb. Lock the flywheel and then put a strap wrench on the output coupling - tighten the disk pack a tooth at a time until it resists 50 ft-lb.
Anyone else want to suggest a different torque number? How about a good way to lock the flywheel?

[edwardc]

... How about a good way to lock the flywheel?

Use either the Ignition Timing Crank (IGEM_15_285)
or the Ignition Timing Socket (IGEM_15_479),
both sold here.




The socket tool also gives you a convenient way to attach a torque wrench. May require two people to do the test this way unless you've got really long arms!

You can also make a homebrew version of the socket tool by welding a notched piece of pipe (don't use galvanized!) onto the end of a sacrificial 1/2"drive 12-point socket.

[sastanley]

Ed, not to discourage people from spending money at MMI , but my buddy Spencer's boat came with a simple large spark plug socket (13/16" ??)with two slots cut in it to rotate the engine via the roll pin.

[Brent W]

Thanks for replies

The PO I bought boat from last fall was operating in forward by using a strap to tie shift lever to the pedestal (no detent engaging) we know that is not good on the bearing.

So I read on this forum and in the Moyer Manual how to adjust and I was attempting that last fall when collar came off the threads...

Yesterday I came off the hard after fixing raw water intake valve, new indigo prop, and new bottom paint! Motoring over and back, I have good detent, but anything over 1200 rpm and it slips while in forward. Good detent.

I'm going to take Al's suggestion here today and tighten it up a bit.

Btw I have a 6" piece of pipe with notches for turning flywheel, I use a pipe wrench.