Here is the extractor I have, works great. It comes with a variety of suction tubes in different diameters.
Cannot seem to change oil
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NY, I too recommend using the diesel fuel for a "thinner". In he old days we would often clean the engines before doing the then repetitive valve jobs. These engines that people ran non-detergent oil would sludge up something terrible. We drained the oil added a fresh filter, diesel fuel and started it. We would let it idle for an hour or so. Almost all of the sludge would be gone (emulsified into the oil). The diesel fuel is just a thin oil with a very hi lubricity rate to lube the injector pumps. Never had a problem.
When doing this add what you can and if there is water in the oil add about 2~3 ounces of dish soap as the soap will draw the water into the oil and make the flushing process easier.
Get what goo you can out then add the diesel fuel for the first flush and cleaning~it does work. I've done dozens of engines being restored in this manner. Just be sure to run in neutral with no load IE in neutral.
Dave Neptune
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I like the block heater idea but doubt there is enough room under the pan.
Besides it is literally 800 feet to any power. Water is shut down for the winter and unless I can get water I'm afraid this is going to have to wait. Definitely not ideal
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Pour a gallon of MMO in the crankcase - or at least as much as you can without overflowing the front seal, and more down each spark plug hole. Leave until spring if you can't think of anything else or try and pump it out a week or two later.Joe Della Barba
Coquina
C&C 35 MK I
Maryland USA
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I used to have good luck on other engines using Varsol to thin the oil/water "milkshake".
I use the Pella 6000 suction oil extractor:
You can remove the small dipstick tube and use the larger diameter hose. I found that it just fits inside of the hose that connects my aftermarket oil filter to the large plug on the crankcase.Last edited by edwardc; 01-06-2019, 10:34 PM.@(^.^)@ Ed
1977 Pearson P-323 "Dolce Vita"
with rebuilt Atomic-4
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