Oil pressure safety switch

[Marty Levenson]

Hello,

I recently bought a "rebuilt in 2009 and not run since" A4. It is a newer model, and has the Fawcet pump. The Oil pressure safety switch was located on "Point A" in my photo. The Moyer Service book shows it at "Point B" on page 1-5. Should I move it? Not at all sure how it works, as our old A4 had a mechanical fuel pump and no safety switch.

Thanks,
Marty 1967 T 27 Poseidon

[jpian0923]

Red arrow points to recommended port. http://www.moyermarine.com/faq/3.5.html
Seems like point A would interfere with carburetor somehow. For maintenance reasons I'd put it where the red arrow is...just behind the flywheel housing.

[Marty Levenson]

sending unit vs safety switch?

Thanks Jim,

Isn't that where the Oil Pressure Sending unit goes? I'm asking about the Oil Pressure Safety Switch?

-Marty

[Marty Levenson]

oops

...just read the link you sent. That answers it....thanks!!

-Marty

[jpian0923]

Marty, looks like you have multiple threads for the same rebuild. This is just my opinion but, one thread makes it easier to follow your progress and offer advice without flipping back and forth to each thread. This way you won't have to start every new thread with a new introduction.

And, you only have to answer the standard questions once.

[Marty Levenson]

threads

Thanks Jim,

I guess there are pros and cons for both ways. Right now I have so many questions that making separate threads is helping me organize..plus if someone is looking into a particular topic later on the thread titles might help.

This forum is fantastically helpful and respectful: really a great community.

[jpian0923]

Good point.

[jhwelch]

I have my oil pressure sender and the safety switch both at the point nearest the flywheel connected to a "T". For me access is so much better there than at the point back by the reversing gear.

-Jonathan

[Loki9]

All three of those ports are connected internally, so you can use any of them. Ease of access will be the deciding factor.

[ndutton]

I have my oil pressure sender and the safety switch both at the point nearest the flywheel connected to a "T". For me access is so much better there than at the point back by the reversing gear.

I had those two plus the alarm sensor on the same 1/8" nipple behind the flywheel and although it worked fine I got concerned over all that weight hanging on a long nipple with the addition of engine vibration. My solution was to remotely mount the sensor array on a nearby bulkhead and connect it to the oil pressure port with a short length of 300 psi rated hose from NAPA. It needed a supplemental ground wire to the array for the gauge sender and alarm switch to work.

[Marty Levenson]

thanks!

That's all really useful: thanks!

-Marty

[Marty Levenson]

back from the abyss

Well, I decided to remove the dented up brass pipe that connected my oil sensor to the block just behind the flywheel so I could clean that area up more easily for painting. Simple, right? It was round all the way: nothing for a wrench to hold. Tried as big a pipe wrench as I could fit into that spot (weird angle) and still no go. Vise grips same. My penetrating oil is on the boat, so I didn't wait to use that. Tried harder, and the thing snapped off flush with the block. Hmmm. A neighbour loaned me a set of easy outs (!) , and I hadn't yet read about the horrors of using those. Long story slightly shorter, the easy out broke off flush too...with surprising little force. Hmmm. Went to bed and had bad dreams.
Next day found some time to make matters worse. Tried drilling with a small titanium drill bit. Too hard. Managed to cut a slot across with a dremel, heated it up with a blow torch, and tried to unscrew the easy out. No luck. Many, many tries ensued. The day passed. Skipped lunch. Tried heating more and tapping it around in a circle. Never moved. Finally in a daze I decided to use various dental burrs I've accumulated and managed to grind the easy out around its edges, hoping to get a pliers around it when it was just a doughnut hole. Took a while. Suddenly the whole thing popped INTO the port before I thought it was ready to grab. Tried to grab it with a needle nose, but that just nudged it in further. Tried to convince myself that would be fine. No luck. Had a brainstorm: grabbed a 1" long cylindrical rare earth magnet and stuck it on the end of a metal punch. It held there well, but I was afraid it would decide to stick to the block instead and join its friend there. Wrapped multiple layers of tape around the magnet and punch, so it would be less attracted to the sides of the hole in the block. Left the flat end exposed. Poked it gently in the hole - way into the hole - and heard/felt a satisfying clink! Pulled out a piece of easy out that was over an inch long. Poked around more but didn't find more.
After that, it was easy to pry the remains of the brass pipe out, as I could bend an edge over slightly where it was cut from making the slot earlier. Amazingly, the threads in the block seem fine: screwed in a new pipe as a test.
I feel great now! Its amazing how depressing that was: felt like my entire world was on hold.

-Marty

[sastanley]

Well...at least you now know that when you replace your buddy's broken Easy Out you won't be asking to borrow it again!

[Dave Neptune]

Tapered threads!

Marty, careful with the sealing of the threads! If some of the high spots (top of the thread) are nicked they will not seal well. I'd first try to run a pipe tap into the hole and once it starts to cut only go ONE turn and be done with it. If you don't pay a bit of attention to the area after running a bit for leaks.

Good luck!
Dave Neptune

[Marty Levenson]

leak fears

Thanks for that, Dave,

I have little experience with taps. I was wondering how reliable those threads will be now. Also, the raised edge around the hole in the block now has a 1/16" deep narrow cut (from cutting the slot that didn't work). Could that cause a leak? Seems unlikely. But, all in all wondering if I should drill and tap a larger hole and start fresh. Advisable? hard to do?

Thanks,
Marty