My A4 adventures

[Ando]

[YOUTUBE] https://youtu.be/m5eNm1VtgU4[/YOUTUBE]

Here is media of me testing the A4 under load. This is around the 30min mark. She was running hot for a raw water cooled engine. I just recently worked on the manifold and know that prior to having a running engine, there were no blockages. I turned the by pass half way between open and closed and ran it under load for another 30min. and she didn’t go above 180. Still hot.

Next steps, in this order:
Fine tune the timing
Fuel filter change
Acid flush the cooling system
EWDS install

[Ando]

I also did some extra credit work: I tinted the windows and put another coat of varnish on the teak.. Not sure why the pic is upside down.

[Ando]

Also today, back at the house where my late model A4 is sitting. All of have to do is to remove the lifters so that I can get the cam shaft out so I can deliver the block to the machine shop. So, as you may know from my previous posts, I ordered the tool to lift the springs. The tool can a few weeks ago, but I just had a chance to try it out and have the following to report:

A. It worked to get six of the eight lifters out

B. I used a magnet to ensure that the spring stays did t drop to no mans land

C. The tool didn’t work for the last two springs. It seemed as if the spring stays were welded to the springs. Come to find out that the spring lifter tool had been compromised. There is a portion that tool (the portion that forks o to the spring) that is pretty thin in metal and was cracked as I’ve tried to show in the pics.

D. My dad is tasked with reinforcing the compromised area by welding/reinforcing it and we’ll see how that goes.






But I just wanted to put this caveat out there about the compromised area of this tool. If you get one, it maybe a good idea to reinforce it prior to use. Seems a bit flimsy...or maybe I did something wrong??? Here are the pics of the affected area(s):

[Ando]

Here’s some more pics

[ronstory]

Ando--

Spin the motor so the springs you are trying to remove aren't compressed. It's less stress on the tool and much easier to get the retainer free.

[Surcouf]

when I removed mine I could not remove all of them: 2 or 3 were stuck. I was forcing quite a lot on the tool, and stopped before breaking the tool. You should not have to force much on the tool, just compressing the springs

Jcwright quoted Don:
"Over the years, varnish in the oil will occasionally "glue" the valve keepers inside the retaining washer and be quite difficult to remove them in worst cases, but you should not have to use heat. All I've ever had to do is pry the retaining washer up using a really big screwdriver (or some other pry bar) using the bottom of the valve chamber opening as a fulcrum while tapping the valve down from on top with a medium sized mallet. Once the keepers come free of the retaining washer they will fall out. Don"

And this is exactly what I did, worked like a charm. This is what I added at that time
"""""So as recommended by Don, I inserted whatever was of the appropriate size between casing and washer, pushing the valve up a few mm. 2-3 small hits on the valve with a small hammer and «*dong*», keepers are released!! 30 minutes sweating + swearing yesterday with no result.... in 5 minutes today they were all in their makeshift box."""

There is a picture showing that in my overhaul thread

[Ando]

We reinforced the lever to no avail. So I then resorted to other measures...I used the nail extraction end of a hammer to lift the spring and hammer (lightly) on the valve to reveal the spring stays and removed them with a magnet. And I threw $50 (the spring lifter tool) in the trash. But I got the last two lifters out!

[Ando]

The last two lifters are off and I finally got the block ready for the machine shop.

[Ando]

More pics

[Ando]

...tomorrow, I will coordinate taking the dismantled early model to the machine shop.

Now back to the late model and the boat. In preparing for the next steps (ie fine tune the timing first, fuel filter change second, acid flush the cooling system third & then EWDS install), I bought muriatic acid and two buckets, as I already have two fuel filters and a new instrument panel, which i need to paint) for the complete EWDS. I still need to buy 1/2lb of baking soda.

I bought paint. My plan is to paint the top deck two-tone grey to keep me busy. I bought a quart of Interlux Brightside in the color of Seattle Grey and a quart of Interdeck non-slip in Grey, brushes, rollers, 333 thinner, sandpaper etc. The pre-paint prep seems so daunting what with the sanding, cleaning, filling any holes/imperfections, taping off etc. that I don't care to think about how long that is going to take. I've also watched how-to videos and learned the "roll and tip" method, which I am looking forward to trying my hand at.

I was literally standing on the dock surveying the top deck in detail for like an hour in deep contemplation. What I came up with was to do the shiny part first, the non skid second, start at the bow and work my way back, then do the area around the windows going from starboard aft to fore and around taking into account the direction of the sun and staying in the shade as much as possible, then the area around the sea-hood and hatch. Then I rested and, while resting, I found my brain telling me, "that paint can wait, it doesn't look too bad, maybe wait until next season and just enjoy her" and so on...I'll let you guys know which side of my brain wins that one.

Once I do that paint (and get and install a whisker pole track on my mast and install lines on the spreaders for the placement of flags), I swear I'll be done

[ronstory]

... I swear I'll be done

Liar, liar, pants on fire.

... OK, I've been home too long...

[Ando]

Assistance please: I have these brand new faria gauges and this new instrument panel. Should I use them or should I use the oem universal gauges? Which is better, in other words? If faria, then I’ll invest in the matching faria fuel gauge (which will have to get). ‘Preciate it, guys n gals

[Ando]

Why are all my pics coming out upside down all the time??? Ha! Sorry! lol

[Surcouf]

Very personal opinion... the white gauges look better. Not sure which ones are better. No later than yesterday, I tested the new Bosch thermometer I purchased to test the engine at home, dumping it in the boiler, and I was happily surprised by its precision. Now seriously considering swapping it with the boat one.

[ronstory]

Faria makes a fine gauge. Just make sure you got the US versus Europe version and you will be set. Attached is the sender specs for Faria/Beede, just in case.