What can I use to replace the worn seal on the opening portlight in the head? I thought I'd read to use stuff box packing but the 1/4" packing wasn't deep enough to contact the portlight frame.
Head portlight seal
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Found it. The product I used on my 73 p30 head window.
# 9700k14. It a square-profile oil resistant buns-n o-ring cord stock
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
That link should bring you to the page were all of the gaskets or located.
I used the 1/4 inch stock. Item number above.
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If you don't want to wait, here's a method I used about 10 years ago that's held up very well:
1. Get a tube of sealant ($10). Life-Caulk or Life-Seal work well. DON'T use 5200!
2. Remove the old gasket, and clean out the groove.
3. Carefully fill the groove with sealant.
4. Level off the sealant with a putty knife.
5. Leave the port open while the sealant cures - 24 hrs or so.
6. When you close the port, don't dog it down hard. Only a half turn is necessary for a good seal.
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Originally posted by tac View PostIf you don't want to wait, here's a method I used about 10 years ago that's held up very well:
1. Get a tube of sealant ($10). Life-Caulk or Life-Seal work well. DON'T use 5200!
2. Remove the old gasket, and clean out the groove.
3. Carefully fill the groove with sealant.
4. Level off the sealant with a putty knife.
5. Leave the port open while the sealant cures - 24 hrs or so.
6. When you close the port, don't dog it down hard. Only a half turn is necessary for a good seal.Chris
1973 Pearson 30 #411
Trinity, North Carolina
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1. Where is this gap - top (hinge area) or bottom?
2. Try dogging down the port until you can see no light. The sealant is soft and will easily deform to fit. Over time, the knife edge has depressed the seal in mine about 1/4"
3. Are you sure those are set screws? I don't have mine in front of me, but I believe each hinge is held in place with a roll pin, which with a cursory look appear to be setscrews. If they are roll pins, there is no adjustment - to remove the port light, drive out the pins with an appropriate sized drift, or a finish nail.
4. Can you post pictures?
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Rockhopper : yes those are set screws. Mine are exactly the same. You can adjust both top and bottom pressure around the window. Did you look at the link for the gasket? I think I picked mine up for a little over 3$ plus shipping of course. To my way of thinking I would think you would want the gasket material to stand a bit proud of the window.Last edited by azazzera; 08-27-2017, 05:47 PM.
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I was thinking they were set screws because the right one was turned out further and there was a gap of about a 1/16" or so on the top part of the gasket. Azazzera, yes I seen the gasket and will probably order some so long as shipping isn't too high. I'm away from the boat or I'd get some pictures.Chris
1973 Pearson 30 #411
Trinity, North Carolina
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Chris, All great questions, dude. I will just comment on old boats like ours we always need to improvise...do not be surprised if there is no "quick fix" or answer to "is this how they designed it in 197x"? I am just bracing you for the inevitable that there are a lot of things we all know how to do better than when our boats were built..with the help of this forum and other friends, I've learned to think way out of the box. I am a IT guy by profession, but now I am also an amateur boat builder!!!-Shawn
"Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109
"Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!)
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Shawn, yeah I'm beginning to get that sense. I'm just trying to get a feel for what others have done, I'm somewhat ocd so I try to do it "right" the first time but as being an older boat I can see there will be a lot of ways to do things "right". Again I really appreciate all of the help and advice.
Been on a search trying to find boat slips that don't want your first born.Chris
1973 Pearson 30 #411
Trinity, North Carolina
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