New alternator, now no power to the engine

[JOHN COOKSON]

Iign switch referenced in that diagram eliminate my starter button that is located next to my choke and throttle levers?

In post 28 you say you need to reroute the choke control because you can't start the engine from the cockpit.
Where are the starter button, choke, and throttle levers located?

TRUE GRIT

[joe_db]

I'm truly sorry but without an accurate drawing that shows everything I can't offer anything constructive.

On that note, I think it is too soon to be buying new parts. The system as shown can't possibly work.
Let's start with the basics. How much of this circuit can you find on your boat:
(note this is a basic diagram. some boats have 1-2-All battery switches and some boats have a combination ignition and start switch)

[dwkfym]

Not sure you’d need to reroute anything as you probably have an ignition switch in place already. On my installation, there’s a little cupboard built into the cockpit at shin level, right next to the shifter, that houses the choke, ignition, former bilge blower switch, and other gauges. Pretty standard, I think. When I upgraded the ignition switch to the four-position model, I removed the blower switch and replaced it with a fuel gauge. This was a big upgrade over the wooden dipstick that existed for the boat’s first 42 years!

(You can’t start the engine from the cockpit? Where do you start the engine from? You have to leave the helm?)

The controls, choke and the starter button is in the cockpit. Isn't a modern four position switch a starter button itself? The four pos switch would be installed in the cockpit, correct?

[GregH]

I removed the original key switch and push button start with a 4 position key switch in the same position as the original key switch as the posts on both are the same size.



The small shiny button to the left of the key switch is where the push button start was.

[dwkfym]

Update: Rewired everything and simplified wiring so that it tracks the diagram posted here (with the 50A fuse between alt. and starter). It cranked over right away.

However, I'm not getting any spark, not that I can visually see. The tester lights up at the plug, as well as the coil (at where the distributor would be). Engine isn't starting.

The lower half of the distributor was never loosened so it shouldn't have moved. I don't think its a timing issue. I do have a new rotor, points and cap.

Where should I start troubleshooting?

I also want to wire up the starter button at the cockpit to work without having to turn the ignition key from the cabin, as my engine controls are located there. Would I able to wire it so that I can start the engine from both cabin and cockpit?

[tenders]

Some ideas...

The miswiring could have burned out the coil; this seems like a strong possibility to me (and/or the condenser perhaps?).

You could have installed the spark plug wires incorrectly, ie put them onto the new cap in the wrong order. Triple check 1-2-4-3, with 1 at the right position. (I had this problem once, drove me nuts for days.)

Does each plug spark if you crank the engine with the plug out, grounded to the block, but connected to the ignition wire?

Check that the rotor properly is pressed down on the distributor shaft, cap mounted squarely and tightened down.

[JOHN COOKSON]

However, I'm not getting any spark, not that I can visually see.
The lower half of the distributor was never loosened so it shouldn't have moved. I do have a new rotor, points and cap.
t?

Pull the big wire out of the center of the distributor, hold it near the engine, and crank the engine. If you don't see a spark the problem is before the distributor. If you see a spark the problem is after the coil.

Electrically it would easy to remote start the engine. But: how would you set up dual control of the choke?

TRUE GRIT

Edit: Are you keeping the raw cooling water valve closed when you no start crank? Do the spark plugs smell of unburned fuel after you no start crank?

[dwkfym]

The choke controls are at the cockpit, and right now there is no functional starter at the cockpit.

[dwkfym]

Update: pretty sure I fried the coil again. Coil was only reading 9.6-10V with multimeter to the pos and neg posts.

[dwkfym]

Update: pretty sure I fried the coil again before I rewired the engine. Coil was only reading 9.6-10V with multimeter to the pos and neg posts.

[JOHN COOKSON]

Update: pretty sure I fried the coil again before I rewired the engine. Coil was only reading 9.6-10V with multimeter to the pos and neg posts.

The voltage readings were taken against ground - the engine block? Coil - is not a ground. The coil does not need to be grounded to work. In fact a coil will work just fine if suspended in mid air.
Take a voltage reading at the fully charged battery and another voltage reading at coil +. There shouldn't be much difference. Not real sure but 10 volts at coil + read against ground may not even fire the spark plugs. Sounds like a wiring issue.

TRUE GRIT

Edit: Rather than taking voltage readings and being "pretty sure" you fried the coil why not just test it? See post #37. You will find out pronto if the points and coil are working or not.

[dwkfym]

I already did, and said so in an earlier post. Tester says its getting juice but no visible spark neither from the wire going to the plug or at the spark plug. The coil isn't getting warm either. Is this an indicator of anything?

[dwkfym]

Update: got the engine running. My ground cable on the cap was pinched off.

The switch is a 4 position switch - ACC, OFF, IGN, ST.
my blower is connected to 'A' post and it turns on at all positions except for off. Switch in question is Sierra MP39200.

Is this a wiring problem or is this how this switch is?
thanks in advance.

[ndutton]

Please replace the coil (I know, again).

[Peter]

Tenders reported that his 4 posn ignition switch works that way -

"I have a four-position ignition switch that I like a lot, I think it’s a Cole-Hersee brand.

Vertical key: everything is off

Key one click to the left (counterclockwise): accessory on, but in my installation that’s wired to the bilge blower only. Turn it this way when you get onto the boat, and leave it while you get things set up to get underway.

Key one click to the right from vertical (clockwise): “run” mode = ignition on, but ALSO bilge blower.

Key one more click to the right from vertical: “crank” (start) mode = key returns to “run” mode when let go.

Benefits:
- simplicity: no separate blower switch, or breaker on the electrical panel, any more. (There is an inline fuse). No separate ignition button either
- safety: engine cannot be run without the bilge blower being on
- idiocy reduction: ignition cannot be left on inadvertently without the bilge blower being on"