Oil Leak - HELP!!!!

[sdemore]

Need some help from the smart guys!

If you remember, I picked up a C&C 30 project boat in November. The engine was in pieces and I got it running in the garage over the winter. Long story short, I got the boat together enough to splash her today. I've tested everything out on the hard, but this was our first shot in the water.

First off, no reverse, but I think it is just a cable adjustment. I crawled under the cockpit to adjust the cable and noticed that my Pig blankets (oil absorbent mats) under the engine were covered in oil. I started looking and found the output shaft is leaking like a sieve, so I guess the seals I thought were new, need to be replaced.

I was already limited on range of movement on the stuffing box and being in the water now, I'd like to stay away from that anyway. So as I see it, I have two real choices:
1) pull the engine mount bolts and slide the engine forward a few inches to get the coupling off --or--
2) sink the boat and take up another hobby

Anybody have any other ideas that I might try? I'm really not looking forward to disconnecting everything again.

Thanks,
Steve

[Dave Neptune]

Steve, are you sure it is the seal leaking and not something else running to the back of the engine?
If it is the seal leaking, how bad is it leaking or how much in an hour? It will probably surprise you at how a little bit looks like a lot.

I know a guy with an old Cal 34 with a leaking seal on his A-4. He fashioned a coffee can as a catch basin to keep the bilge clean. He just pays special attention to his oil level. His A-4 leaks about an ounce an hour maybe less and it has been running like this for quite a few years. He really struggles with his budget to have a boat.

Check around the water pump too a notorious place to leak.

Dave Neptune

[sdemore]

Dave,

I'm going back to see what I can do now, but what I saw looked like the oil was coming out of the shaft itself, so I am pretty sure it is the seal. It was kind of a blub, blub, breathe, blub, blub, breathe, kind of leak and if I had to, I'd guess it would lose a quart every hour or two; a considerable leak. What shocks me is that I had the engine running in the garage with no problem, then in the boat on the hard , yesterday, with no problem. Today was the most extensive use (I motored the boat 100 yards or so, from the launch point to the slip) and suddenly I hit a gusher.

I'll post more info in a couple hours, when I get back from the boat.

Steve

[roadnsky]

pictures too?

[Hawkeye54]

Steve, is it possible that you merely have too much oil in the crankcase, not so much
of an issue in their shop or on them hard, but now an issue as she floats on her lines ??

Rick

[Antibes]

Going along with the previous post, if the oil was full in the shop and the engine level, It would be to much on the boat since A4 installations are always angled. and require less oil

[Marian Claire]

How was the alignment when you connected the drive shaft to the prop shaft? Would bad alignment put pressure on the rear seal and cause it to leak??? Just something that is different than the bench test.

Dan S/V Marian Claire

[Al Schober]

There are numerous pieces that come together in that area. Is the gear casing firm against the oil pan? Is the bearing carrier tight against the castings? Is the seal carrier tight against the bearing carrier? A quart an hour is a LOT of oil - IMHO more than a leaky seal would pass.

[sdemore]

First, to answer the latest questions. Yes, the oil level was a little high. I drained it down almost to the full mark on the dipstick. but left it a hair above to see what would happen after it ran for more than a few moments. However, I lost at least a quart, until the level was low enough to stop leaking (about an hour). I wouldn't expect that much to bypass a good seal that quickly anyway, but you guys have a lot more experience than me. Oh, and also, the engine has been in the boat, sitting on jacks since May. The angle was pretty much the same and I started the engine a handful of times to make sure everything was working.

When I got the coupling loose, I noticed a fine line of pitting on it. I can't really feel it, but I took a picture and can see it clearly when I zoom in on it. I'm wondering if this simply ate the seal. I don't have room to get it all the way out and will have to move the engine forward an inch or two.

I have the order ready for a new seal (and gaskets). I was looking at the sleeves that they recommend for worn couplings. My question is, if I'm looking at the right parts, the sleeve (part # OREV_06_170) is $58 and the whole new coupling (part # OREV_05_121) is only $62. Is there some reason not to spend the extra $4?

Here are a few pictures. Incidentally, this was a clean install and all of the oil in the pictures was from this leak dripping and slinging.

Thanks,
Steve

[Al Schober]

The spigot on the output flange looks nasty - I think the seal is toast. I'd forget the sleeve (at that price) and just replace the output flange.
Not much room in there to get things apart - jammed together fore & aft (hate it when builders do that). Any chance you can remove that bracket and take an inch (or so) off the rubber hose, moving the stuffing box aft an inch?

[sdemore]

Al, Thanks for the advice. I was waiting to hit the order button until I heard from somebody, but was thinking the same thing about the sleeve vs. new coupling flange.

If this was prior to today, I would look at the hose, but with launching her today, I'm afraid to play with the stuffing box parts much (this is my first boat and I am still learning). I have pretty easy access to the engine mounts and I think I can slide it and inch or so without disconnecting anything other than possibly the exhaust. It was fairly easy to align when I put it in and I think I can get it again (famous last words!).

Thanks again,
Steve