Engine wont start

[Captcore]

Good morning from Baltimore!

I am new to this forum, and I am the new (happy?) owner of a 1967 Pearson Renegade (27 feet), powered by an Atomic 4. The engine ran like a champ the last time the owner used the boat, which was 2 years ago. He got sick and hadn't been able to use the boat since, so it just sat in the water. It had about 2-3 gallons of fuel in the tank, but I've added new fuel since, because I've had trouble getting the old fuel out. I've also treated it with sea-foam and Star-Tron.

The problem is that I can't get the engine started ever since I bought the boat.

So far, I've replaced spark plugs with new ones and replaced Racor (which also is water separator). Even spraying starting fluid into air intake, it will crank but not start. I'm nervous to take the carb off, without good step-by-step instructions on how to do so.

I should also point out that the engine was rebuilt by Moyer in about 2004, so I'm assuming I have electronic ignition. It seems to me that since it won't run even with starting fluid that it is either a distributor problem or a carb problem. Am I on the right track?

I know the spark plug wires are in the right firing order because when I changed the plugs I unplugged them and changed them one at a time.

Any and all help appreciated.

Capt Corey
1967 Pearson Renegade
Hull #3
"Athene"

[Al Schober]

Use of starting fluid is a good diagnostic as it eliminates the fuel system.
The question now is whether you're missing spark or compression. Since this is a 4 cylinder engine, no compression would need one valve per cylinder to hang open. If any cylinder had compression, something would happen with the starting fluid. On to spark...
Do you have points or Electronic Ignition? An assumption is not adequate. Take off the distributor cap and take a photo and we can go from there.

[GregH]

May I suggest, your next step is to purchase the Moyer manual? it has handy, thorough information now and in the future for you.

[Clucas]

Warning - don't crank the engine for excessive amounts of time with the raw water valve open. Doing so risks introducing water in places you don't want it.

Check your dipstick -- if the oil is at all milky-looking, you have water in the crankcase and likely in the cylinders as well. You'll need to do a number of oil changes until you get rid of the water. Keep the raw water thruhull closed while you're cranking the engine -- once it catches, then open the thruhull.

Best next steps... get a Moyer Manual and purchase a carb rebuild kit. If the engine has sat with fuel in it for a couple years, you likely have gummed up jets in the carb. The carb rebuild is actually pretty easy, but first...
1) drain old fuel from the carb's main passage by opening the plug on the back of the carb (don't lose the fiber washer needed to establish a seal). 2) Remove the flame arrestor and verify the choke control is functioning as it should.

It the fuel petcock open? (You mentioned that you changed the racor - when you did, did close/open the fuel value?). Do you have a mechanical or electric fuel pump? If a mechanical fuel pump, can you hear fuel moving when you move the priming bail? (you may also want to consider a fuel pump rebuild).