Seized (apparently)

[Robo X 3000]

I just bought a Newport 30 '69 and when attempting to turn motor over, the solenoid engages, but motor doesn't turn over. It's apparently been sitting for several years, but I don't know anything else about it. When in gear, the prop can't be rotated by hand. I haven't taken a spark plug out yet to see if the pistons move since there is very little space above the motor where installed.

So, I'm wondering, first, if this is common or even likely - that the motor would be frozen simply because of sitting so long - there doesn't appear to have been any attempt to open or repair it.

Second, what sort of troubleshooting steps I should do to determine if the motor is indeed seized.

I can probably take it from there, but at this point, it's a total mystery to me, so any help would be greatly appreciated.

[Don Moyer]

The best way to separate a starter problem from a seized engine is to remove the starter and then take a common screwdriver and pry against the flywheel teeth from the rear. If the flywheel turns, I recommend taking the starter to a local automotive starter/alternator repair shop to have checked out.

Don

[Robo X 3000]

The bad news: the starter is fine

Starter seems fine, solenoid throws normally, starter has plenty of torque.

I've put the Mystery Oil in the spark plug holes, and waited a day or two. I tried to turn the flywheel with the screwdriver but it didn't budge more than the normal play in the motor.

So, is it normal for a motor to seize after having sat in dry storage no where near the ocean for 8 years?

Should I pull it out (have to wait till it's off the blocks and back in the water so the crane doesn't topple it, or so they say)?

Any other advice to try or should I get a second job and start saving for a rebuild or replace?

Thanks?

[Don Moyer]

Robo X 3000,

It's not normal for an Atomic 4 to seize after a lay-up. My guess is that there was some moisture present in the combustion chambers when the engine was shut down and Marvel Mystery Oil was not used in the laying up process.

Before pulling the engine I would remove the head, apply some good penetrating oil directly to the outside edge of each piston, and then try a larger screwdriver. With the head removed, you'll be able to determine the condition of the cylinder bores and get a good idea of how much moisture may have been present. If there is only light rusting in evidence, the engine should recover OK.

Don