Revs down and shuts off! HELP

[ndutton]

I had the key turned on, without cranking the engine over yet that day, for probably 5 minutes and the coil (ignition/distributor?) was hot to touch.

Regardless of whether or not the coil was involved in the original problem, this episode has damaged it so it needs to be replaced too. In its current damaged condition you can expect maybe 45 minutes of run time before problems emerge. With a points style ignition and proper dwell, probably a little bit longer.

[SailingReckless]

Regardless of whether or not the coil was involved in the original problem, this episode has damaged it so it needs to be replaced too. In its current damaged condition you can expect maybe 45 minutes of run time before problems emerge. With a points style ignition and proper dwell, probably a little bit longer.

Do you say it’s damaged because with the key on it’s getting hot?

[lat 64]

S.R.,
Im glad you got something from the video.

So much to digest at first, so take it one problem at a time. Then, start a new thread with the next issue.
As for the handprint on forehead thing(🤦🏻*♀️), not an issue on this forum. Your willingness to learn and articulate your questions will get some great feedback. As they say" there are no stupid questions, only stupid answers". We will try to avoid stupid answers for you😜.

Photos are helpful for us to assess your system(s).

I predict that even you will be contributing to help a newbie in a couple months.

Re: black fuel line, that's probably rubber. Make sure its USCG approved type for gasoline on boats.

Cheers,

Russ

[ndutton]

Do you say it’s damaged because with the key on it’s getting hot?

Exactly. Under normal running conditions the coil is being switched on and off but that is not the case when the key is left on and the engine is not running. With the coil switched on for a prolonged period it keeps getting hotter and hotter much like a soldering iron to the point that the insulation on the coil's internal windings becomes damaged. After cooling the coil usually returns to operation but is now less tolerant of heat, even normal operating heat.

We don't know how hot your coil got because "hot to touch" is not an accurate measurement but 5 minutes time is certainly enough for damage so at this time it is prudent to make certain you have a coil in good condition which by your report, this one cannot be trusted.

You might also consider Moyer's basic oil pressure and temperature alarm system. With the key on and the engine off you'll have no oil pressure which will cause the buzzer to alert you.

[Sam]

I had similar problem a few years back where the engine started and ran fine for about 2 -4 min or so then just died as if the ignition was shut off. Checked points, fuel, compression, spark, extra fuel source, changed coil etc - no joy. An older [if possible] harbor mate suggested changing out the condenser - solved the problem, now I always carry a couple of spares [and coil] - not sure they are made as good as they used to be.

[SailingReckless]

I had similar problem a few years back where the engine started and ran fine for about 2 -4 min or so then just died as if the ignition was shut off. Checked points, fuel, compression, spark, extra fuel source, changed coil etc - no joy. An older [if possible] harbor mate suggested changing out the condenser - solved the problem, now I always carry a couple of spares [and coil] - not sure they are made as good as they used to be.

Yessssss! Success! Spent the night on the boat last night. First thing this morning, as soon as the parts store opened, I picked up a new coil. Put it on and........no stalling!

Now to move on to the next issue
So much white smoke coming out of the exhaust

THANK YOU ALL SOOOO MUCH

[ndutton]

Please tell us about the new coil (brand and model, internal resistance).

[SailingReckless]

I don't see a brand name on it or the box it came in.
The part number is 18-5435. The box reads (has internal resistor) Replaces Crusader 41080. I paid $54.99 at the local marine supply.

[ndutton]

The box reads (has internal resistor) Replaces Crusader 41080.

Bingo! Internal resistance is 2.70 ~ 3.36 Ohms, excellent for the A4 points ignition application. Well done.

[SailingReckless]

[ATTACH]14238
[/ATTACH]

I don't see a brand name on it or the box it came in.
The part number is 18-5435. The box reads (has internal resistor) Replaces Crusader 41080. I paid $54.99 at the local marine supply.

Here is a pic of the new coil.

[ndutton]

If you ever upgrade to electronic ignition please talk to us first.

[JOHN COOKSON]

To Prevent Inadvertently Frying The Coil.......

I did notice a couple things yesterday that I’ll mention even though I have no idea if they relate to this. I had the key turned on, without cranking the engine over yet that day, for probably 5 minutes and the coil (ignition/distributor?) was hot to touch.
.

The only time the key is in the slot on my boat is when the engine is running or being cranked.

TRUE GRIT

[SailingReckless]

YouTube- working on the carburetor

[YOUTUBE]Akvty8qAalo[/YOUTUBE]

[YOUTUBE]https://youtu.be/Akvty8qAalo[/YOUTUBE]



After I replaced the coil, I took off the carb and cleaned it out, replaced gaskets and put it back on. Thanks again guys!
Now I have new problems tho. Still the white smoke in the exhaust and a wire got so hot that it melted���� I have to work all week but when I get back to the boat this weekend I’ll show you which one it is��

[SailingReckless]

If you ever upgrade to electronic ignition please talk to us first.

I will talk to you before I do anything at all now😊✌🏼

[JOHN COOKSON]

SR: Just a quick hint.
I watched the carb repair video. Get a piece of 2X4 an set the carb on it, hold the carb with one hand then tighten the screws with the other hand while you are standing over it. You will be able to get more torque and tighten the screws more evenly.
When you hold the carb in one hand and tighten with the other it is almost impossible to torque the screws evenly and increases the chance of a cross thread.

TRUE GRIT