Engine Hoist and Gas Drum Removal

[ndutton]

However, I looked at the issue again with fresh eyes. There were already a bunch of holes that had been cut in the 1/2 plywood that sits behind the engine under the companionway and figured that in no way was load bearing.

You might want to reconsider this assessment. I can't possibly know the structure of your boat but the bulkheads (perpendicular to the centerline) hold the shape of the hull against deforming influences and the area of the companionway/cockpit is one of the more important ones considering sheeting loads in the vicinity.

Fresh out of the mold without a deck or bulkheads a 30 foot fiberglass hull can be displaced at the sheer by over a foot applying side force only by hand. It is the interior structure attached to the hull - much like a grid - that provides the stiffness.

There is a certain percentage of the bulkhead that can be removed as in the case of your holes without compromising its strength significantly but there is a limit too. Where that limit lies is the purview of the slide rule crowd.

Bottom line - please think of the bulkhead as structural and make it as strong as conditions allow.

[Jim Bates]

Neil, thanks for your advice. I will consider that in replacement of wood underneath companionway when we get that far. Unfortunately, any damage was probably done years ago with cutting by prior owners. This was 1/2 inch plywood and the worst part I wanted to avoid was cutting any fiberglass or cockpit deck or the substantial quarter berths in removal of tanks. It seems like the quarter berths are in fact structural. Worst part was yards were very concerned about trying to cut out old steel tank for fear of explosion.

I am trying to do the "A" job on every project on this boat.

I always value the comments you have put in the all your posts.

Thanks

[ndutton]

I am trying to do the "A" job on every project on this boat.

A worthy goal my friend. Your boat will reward you in return.

[thumbdoctor]

You might want to reconsider this assessment. I can't possibly know the structure of your boat but the bulkheads (perpendicular to the centerline) hold the shape of the hull against deforming influences and the area of the companionway/cockpit is one of the more important ones considering sheeting loads in the vicinity.

Fresh out of the mold without a deck or bulkheads a 30 foot fiberglass hull can be displaced at the sheer by over a foot applying side force only by hand. It is the interior structure attached to the hull - much like a grid - that provides the stiffness.

There is a certain percentage of the bulkhead that can be removed as in the case of your holes without compromising its strength significantly but there is a limit too. Where that limit lies is the purview of the slide rule crowd.

Bottom line - please think of the bulkhead as structural and make it as strong as conditions allow.

Agreed !
Bulkhead condition unfortunately shows itself when tensioning the shrouds, forestay and backstay. Having owned an Alberg 30, I learned all about chainplate and bulkhead rot.

[hcrisp]

Boat wood

Bill T is correct with his advice. Red oak does not belong on a boat. Take a look at the end grain - it's just a bunch of straws. Capillary action sucks water into the wood where it can never dry. You can blow smoke through a short section. It's also a heavy wood and as you know from backpacking every ounce counts.
Howard

[Administrator]

I spent some time last week admiring the work of the guys in the small boat shop at the Calvert Marine Museum in Solomons, MD. They were making up some replacement rings for the sail slides on a skipjack. The material of choice was white oak, dipped in a bath of slightly thinned linseed oil. They commented these these new rings probably wouldn't last more than 30 years, given 100% exposure to the elements and significant stress loads.

By the way, they were drop-dead gorgeous.

This is a great stop for Chesapeake Bay cruisers. My wife watches the river otters play in that exhibit, and I head for the shop. They have a nice collection of old marine engines as well, but no A4. Oh, and they had a simply breathtaking little runabout in the entrance lobby which they had built in the shop. The foredeck looked like it was inlaid, but they guys told me they had achieved the look by pinstriping. It was like a Marilyn Monroe pinup. Drool all over the floor....

Bill

[67c&ccorv]

I spent some time last week admiring the work of the guys in the small boat shop at the Calvert Marine Museum in Solomons, MD. They were making up some replacement rings for the sail slides on a skipjack. The material of choice was white oak, dipped in a bath of slightly thinned linseed oil. They commented these these new rings probably wouldn't last more than 30 years, given 100% exposure to the elements and significant stress loads.

By the way, they were drop-dead gorgeous.

Bill

Ever see the cross arms on the old railway telegraph poles...up here in the GWN they were all made of white oak - most are still doing the job of holding up redundant wires 40+ years after we stopped using telegraph lines for communication on the railway!

Often the pole will fall over and the cross arms hold the pole at an angle without it touching the ground.

[Jim Bates]

Thanks for all the advice. Boat is out, I spent 3 hours with rigger yesterday unstepping spruce mast and removing hardware for painting - a very worthwhile experience. Bottom to be painted soon. I am painting engine compartment while waiting for everyone else.

I took that old aluminum gas tank to salvage/recycling yard. I just wanted to drop it off but they insisted paying me .15 per pound for aluminum. Tank weighed 27 pounds empty, I received $4.05. Covered a little bit of gas to and from salvage yard but no money left over for beer. Ha!