getting ready

[sastanley]

thanks for the updates..this has been an interesting thread!

[Hymodyne]

engine in place

used a halyard support on the boom to move the engine from the cabin sole up into the mounting place. The mounting is plastic or glass/cloth of some sort. The engine slid right down into place, there is however, about 1/8th of an inch difference between where the drive coupling is and where the transmission flange is. I was able to get one of the three bolts started, but have to improvise something to help me (working alone, ain't it fun!?) raise the stuffing box and shaft enough to get the other two started. I'm waiting to tighten the engine mounting bolts until I know what kind of vibration I have when running. My fuel water separator came today, so I'll plumb that tomorrow. Once the raw water strainer comes, I'll be in business; too many jellyfish to run without one.
PO had installed an engine compartment blower fan as a bilge fan. Not a good set up. I went with an inline blower, which I mounted under the port cockpit seat. Blower has a switch and is wired into my fuse panel. If I'm able to get the engine bolted down and coupled to the propshaft, I'll turn my attention to yet another stanchion that has broken through the deck.
James

[sastanley]

Stay diligent james...you will eventually get ahead of the failures!

We are headed in your general vicinity (I think) this weekend. Plan to sail to San Domingo Creek on Friday for a weekend in St. Michael's.

[Hymodyne]

shrt trip b/c of rain

rode up this morning and was able to get the coupling bolts to go in. I looped a length of rope around the coupling and twisted it, drawing the coupling and prop shaft upward. I t was enough to get the other two bolts in and all tightened. I installed the fuel water separator, but will most likely use an outboard tank to fuel the A4 for the trip to Bivalve, as the contents of the regular fuel tank are unknown.

Got Choke attached, was working on throttle cable when I had to quit to make the 1 1/2 hour drive back to Salisbury. Only got a little wet.

James

[edwardc]

James,

Be sure you're not pressing the shaft against the inside wall of the shaft log tube to get it to mate with the engine coupler. (Shawn can comment on what occurs when this happens!!)
In general, you want "the tail to wag the dog", not the other way around. The shaft should be positioned in the center of the shaft log, and the engine shimed and positioned to meet it. You shouldn't be having to put any great force on the shaft to get it to mate.

[Hymodyne]

No real pressure was being applied; it was a discrepancy of about 1/8th an inch.

James

James,

Be sure you're not pressing the shaft against the inside wall of the shaft log tube to get it to mate with the engine coupler. (Shawn can comment on what occurs when this happens!!)
In general, you want "the tail to wag the dog", not the other way around. The shaft should be positioned in the center of the shaft log, and the engine shimed and positioned to meet it. You shouldn't be having to put any great force on the shaft to get it to mate.

[Dusty1]

Shawn
St Michael's will have fireworks out on the Miles side tommorrow nite. Generally a great show

[Marty Levenson]

shaft - engine connection

1/8 " sounds huge. You may have to shift the engine around a bit to properly align the couplings. The shaft should not be shifted. DAMHIK

Marty

[Marty Levenson]

up and down

Just reread your earlier post, and noted that you had to move the shaft UP to mate with the output coupling. I would suggest you disconnect, loosen all four mounts, and shim the forward two engine mounts using a washer about the thickness of a dime (or adjust them if you are so blessed). Then take a feeler gauge and be sure you are at .002" all the way around the mating surfaces. Repeat until you achieve .002"

Marty

[Hymodyne]

update frustration!!

My wife and I went out to the boat today, cleaned out all of the construction and repair tools and materials that had accumulated since I started working on the boat. Lots of fiberglass particles have been produced through sanding and cutting, leaving everything inside covered with itchy stuff. sanded the bunks and hull walls in the main cabin and then wiped everything down with acetone, prior to painting with a semigloss white. very bright inside and much improved over the previous paint and stains.

Interior painted, I turned my attention to the choke and throttle. original choke cable and items still serviceable, so they are in use and working fine. I went with a thinner throttle cable, which bent immediately when my wife moved the throttle lever. I have to find a stouter solid cable and coiled housing.

Hooked up the raw water strainer and attached an outboard tank line to my fuel line for the engine- the boat's tank is still an unknown quantity to me, so I'm bypassing it for the trip to Bivalve.

After getting the right length battery cables, I was able to power up the engine and turn the key. It had been running great on the hard in my garage, I turned the key, and no effing spark. Indigo electronic ignition. Would the indigo system need a ballast resistor with a flamethrower coil?

We're going back tomorrow so I'll dig in to it. Very frustrating.

James

[Vermonstah]

Indigo electronic ignition. Would the indigo system need a ballast resistor with a flamethrower coil?

James

James - I am not qualified to answer that question. This forum has ample threads on coils, so I will refer you there.

But I feel your pain with the frustration of needing to get her running to bring her home. When I first purchased my boat, I had what should have been a much easier run home than what you are now facing. But, my experience was trying to say the least.

To troubleshoot lack of spark, I will refer you here to the MMI approach.

Good luck.

[ndutton]

After getting the right length battery cables, I was able to power up the engine and turn the key. It had been running great on the hard in my garage, I turned the key, and no effing spark. Indigo electronic ignition. Would the indigo system need a ballast resistor with a flamethrower coil?

Probably but we can't say for sure without measurements. I haven't studied the Indigo product but I understand its dwell is similar to the Pertronix EI, nearly twice the dwell of points and therefore invites the coil oversaturation death spiral unless the system current is managed. It's interesting that Indigo offers a ballast resistor product, even includes it in their EI complete retrofit package so read into that what you will.

However, coil failure from oversaturation (overheating) is usually a gradual process unless the ignition was left on without the engine running for a prolonged time. It is not a sudden failure. And if this is the case, a ballast resistor will not fix a damaged coil.

Something else that's interesting: notice that Indigo now offers a 4.3Ω internally resisted coil.

[Hymodyne]

@##$$%#

neither 3 ohm coil I have seems to be working. getting 12 v, but no spark. I bought a new coil for the A4 and an external ballast resistor, wired to the + side of the coil between the battery switch on the ignition and the plus side of the coil.

still no spark. Going to take out the indigo electronic strobe ignition parts and replace with a set of points.

If that's it, I may stick with points, although I would like to have electronic ignition if possible.

Anyone with spare working parts for this unit, please let me know.

James

[roadnsky]

James-
Something tells me this is not a coil nor Ei issue.

Are you certain you have power and good connection on the ignition circuit?
IF this were my vessel, I would try connecting a jumper wire from the large battery terminal on the starter solenoid to the positive terminal of the coil.
-j

[Hymodyne]

Jerry,

I get a reading of 12.5 volts from the + side of the coil. I'll try the jumper you suggest as soon as I can get back to the boat.

James

James-
Something tells me this is not a coil nor Ei issue.

Are you certain you have power and good connection on the ignition circuit?
IF this were my vessel, I would try connecting a jumper wire from the large battery terminal on the starter solenoid to the positive terminal of the coil.
-j