gate valve replacment

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  • alcodiesel
    Senior Member
    • Oct 2015
    • 298

    gate valve replacment

    Is this marlon 1 1/4" the replacement for the antique gate valve in the bottom pic?
    Attached Files
    Bill McLean
    '76 Ericson 27
    :valhalla:
    Norfolk, VA
  • Tim
    Senior Member
    • Jul 2005
    • 191

    #2
    It would be an improvement, but no. It looks like the valve connects to a thru hull fitting. If that is the case, you should replace the valve with a seacock. Also, get rid of any PVC fittings for any systems that connect below the waterline and replace them with bronze or marlon. Here are a before and a couple of after photos of my seacock upgrade a couple years ago.
    Attached Files
    Pearson 10M
    Gloucester, Va

    Comment

    • roadnsky
      Afourian MVP
      • Dec 2008
      • 3127

      #3
      +1 on Tim's advice.
      Especially about getting rid of the garden variety plastic PVC.

      When I first got my vessel, the gate valves on all of the Thru Hulls were my biggest concern. They are a time bomb just ticking away.
      Here is another BEFORE and AFTER example.
      Attached Files
      -Jerry

      'Lone Ranger'
      sigpic
      1978 RANGER 30

      Comment

      • romantic comedy
        Afourian MVP
        • May 2007
        • 1943

        #4
        Thru bolted bronze seacocks are the only thing I would use.
        rule number one: Keep the water out

        Comment

        • paulw
          Senior Member
          • May 2020
          • 14

          #5
          thru hull maintenance

          Hi

          I've got the same through hulls on my Ranger 33, 1972. I'm wondering what resistance the fitting will put up, thinking that I'll use one wrench to keep the through hull from bearing the tension from the other wrench.

          Comment

          • JOHN COOKSON
            Afourian MVP, Professor Emeritus
            • Nov 2008
            • 3501

            #6
            Side Note

            If you open and close the through hull ball valves and any other ball valves once in awhile it will keep them from corroding or "freezing" in the open or closed position.

            ex TRUE GRIT

            Comment

            • roadnsky
              Afourian MVP
              • Dec 2008
              • 3127

              #7
              Originally posted by paulw View Post
              I've got the same through hulls on my Ranger 33, 1972. I'm wondering what resistance the fitting will put up, thinking that I'll use one wrench to keep the through hull from bearing the tension from the other wrench.
              Paul-
              Are you doing the repair while still in the water or on the hard?

              IF you're out of the water and don't mind spending a few boat bucks" you can use a Thru Hull tool. (About $50 new)
              It makes the removal very easy.

              IF you're still in the water, then dive in and plug the thru hull (from the water side) while you use 2 wrenches.
              The down side to this is you won't be actually replacing the thru hull but just the valve.
              I did this (while in the water) so I could get rid of my old gate valves and it lasted me for a couple of years until I could get hauled out for proper repair.
              It's just a band-aid solution.

              Be careful with the two wrench approach if in the water.
              You don't want to let that thru hull turn. ONLY the valve.
              Attached Files
              -Jerry

              'Lone Ranger'
              sigpic
              1978 RANGER 30

              Comment

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