In Moyer's Winterizing your Atomic 4 (also in the book), it suggests draining the oil and adding a quart or two (as needed) of Marvel Mystery Oil. But in Marvel Mystery Oil, he seems to suggest just the opposite. I'm a bit confused by this.
Also: The spring launch chapter in the book mentions nothing about pumping the MMO back out before topping-up the oil level. Was that an oversight, or on-purpose?
Next: The coolant system recommendation talks about having to remove the thermostat and squeeze-off the bypass hose in raw-water-cooled installations. Would it also work to have the engine up to full operating temperature and squeeze-off the bypass hose? Or is that too iffy? (E.g.: No guarantee the thermostat's actually open?) If I have to temporarily remove the thermostat, is there a gasket that's going to need replacement?
He mentions "the two drain plugs behind the starter and alternator." I haven't looked at that side of the engine, yet, but the picture in the manual points-out only one. Then he mentions the one "in the rear of the exhaust/intake manifold." Are these all readily identifiable?
I thought the book also recommended replacing these plugs. The web page does not. But both list them in the "Needed materials" section. Do I need to replace these? Where do I get them from? I note MMI lists "Product No. - BRSS_05_434 - Brass pipe plug 3/8 inch," but no "7/16 inch hex-headed brass 1/8 inch pipe plugs" that I've been able to find.
Note to MMI: The book's text on winterization does not mention re-installing the plugs after removing them before moving on to drawing the redpop through the engine. A reasonable person would probably figure this out for themselves. But somebody that believes in following instructions exactly might be in for a bit of a surprise.
Lastly: A fellow club member suggested something other than MMO for the cylinders... can't recall now what he called it... something like "dispersing oil?" Apparently it's sprayed into the cylinders?
I think that about covers it.
TIA,
Jim
Also: The spring launch chapter in the book mentions nothing about pumping the MMO back out before topping-up the oil level. Was that an oversight, or on-purpose?
Next: The coolant system recommendation talks about having to remove the thermostat and squeeze-off the bypass hose in raw-water-cooled installations. Would it also work to have the engine up to full operating temperature and squeeze-off the bypass hose? Or is that too iffy? (E.g.: No guarantee the thermostat's actually open?) If I have to temporarily remove the thermostat, is there a gasket that's going to need replacement?
He mentions "the two drain plugs behind the starter and alternator." I haven't looked at that side of the engine, yet, but the picture in the manual points-out only one. Then he mentions the one "in the rear of the exhaust/intake manifold." Are these all readily identifiable?
I thought the book also recommended replacing these plugs. The web page does not. But both list them in the "Needed materials" section. Do I need to replace these? Where do I get them from? I note MMI lists "Product No. - BRSS_05_434 - Brass pipe plug 3/8 inch," but no "7/16 inch hex-headed brass 1/8 inch pipe plugs" that I've been able to find.
Note to MMI: The book's text on winterization does not mention re-installing the plugs after removing them before moving on to drawing the redpop through the engine. A reasonable person would probably figure this out for themselves. But somebody that believes in following instructions exactly might be in for a bit of a surprise.
Lastly: A fellow club member suggested something other than MMO for the cylinders... can't recall now what he called it... something like "dispersing oil?" Apparently it's sprayed into the cylinders?
I think that about covers it.
TIA,
Jim
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