Engine won't start!

[pdecker]

I've been motoring down the ICW for a couple of weeks. It has been running fine, and always started right away, except for one. Yesterday morning after anchoring overnight, it would not start at all. It cranks very well but will not turn over. I had to get towed 30 miles to a marina, and there is no mechanic available.

Last month, I replaced the plugs, points, condenser, rotor, and D-cap, and it ran fine after that. Last year I replaced the fuel pump and oil pressure safety switch.

First thing I did was replace the 2 mic fuel filter, since I haven't done that this year. The old filter was dirty. I emptied the Racor water separator, and did not find any evidence of water. Just dirt and gas. The engine still would not start. I disconnected the fuel line from the carb, and verified good fuel flow to the carb while cranking. I tried using starting fluid, and there was no response.

I then removed the distributor cap. I noticed one side was a little loose and the D-cap had pinched the condenser wire, but did not seem to damage the wire. It just squeezed the insulation. I checked the point gap, and it appeared to be closed at the point it should be open, so I did a rough re-gap. No noticeable wear or damage to the secondary electronics. I re-installed the D-cap, making sure not to pinch the condenser wire, and tried to start again. No luck.

I'm out of things to check. What should I do?? Please help.

[ILikeRust]

Air, fuel, spark. Gotta have all three - and the way to diagnose is to isolate each one, one at a time.

If you squirted starting fluid in there, with no response, that would seem to indicate you're lacking the spark part of the equation. The fact that you found the wire for the condenser pinched might bolster that theory.

Do you have a spare condenser on board? You might consider swapping out for a new one just to see if that's the issue.

[ILikeRust]

BTW, have you pulled and inspected your spark plugs, and verified spark?

[67rway]

As Rust mentioned, the no-start with starting fluid eliminates the fuel issue.

I'd carefully inspect the cap/rotor if you find no spark, given that you found it loose. The cap/rotor contacts may have been damaged if the cap were able to rock around a bit. Might be able to restore them temporarily with a quick scrapping/cleaning.

[joe_db]

The condenser itself can go bad too.
Basic check - AFTER making sure there are no gas fumes.
Take the neg side of the coil and run a wire to ground.
Take the wire from the coil to the distributor and remove from distributor.
Hold that wire about 1/4" from the engine and swipe a wire connected to 12 volts across the positive coil terminal. There should be a decent spark to ground from the high voltage wire. If not, 90% chance the coil died and maybe 10% chance your high voltage wire died. I have had both at various times..............


If that proves out good, then go on to the points.condenser/rotor/etc to look for trouble.

[ndutton]

I noticed one side was a little loose and the D-cap had pinched the condenser wire, but did not seem to damage the wire. It just squeezed the insulation.

Even if not visible, if the pinch grounded the wire the coil is done.

[edwardc]

... I checked the point gap, and it appeared to be closed at the point it should be open, ...

It's possible that your initial problem was the closed points, but all your efforts to start it with the points closed was putting continuous current through the coil and may have cooked it.

If the test that joe_db described yeilds no spark, try replacing the coil.

[pdecker]

Still no joy.

Forgot to mention that I installed my replacement coil yesterday while the "bad" condenser was still in. I just replaced the condenser and it doesn't start. I pulled the coil to distributor wire out and tested for spark and there is no spark with the new coil. Maybe I cooked it with the old condenser?

I tested the wire coming from the regulator to the + coil input, and it is fine, but the stub coming from the regulator is hard wired into it. FYI, I tested the output of the regulator to ground and got 6V. What do you think? Replace coil again, or regulator?

[67rway]

Someone more knowledgeable will certainly jump in, but I'll meanwhile...

You have to have 12v at the coil + connection. If you've only got 6v there she's not going to fire.

If it were me I'd isolate the regulator issue (disconnect the alternator output) and run a jumper from battery + to the coil +, and see if she sparks/runs.

[romantic comedy]

A quick coil test:

Hook battery voltage to the + of the coil. Hook up a high tension (center wire) at a 1/8 gap to the ground. Hook a wire to the - of the coil and touch it on and off to the ground. It will cause a spark.

[joe_db]

Yes - as just mentioned above, TOTALLY bypass the existing wiring. Coil + straight to 12 volts and coil - straight to ground. When you break the connection it should trigger a large spark on the high voltage wire. Do not leave it on - that is what burns the coil out!
Once you prove the coil works, we can work out the rest of the issues.

[pdecker]

I have made sparks!

I did that test this morning, and got sparks! I even tried different wires from coil to ground/ D-cap and got spark, so that rules out the coil and the wire.

Regulator? Can I get one separate from a new alternator? As I mentioned yesterday, I only measured 6V from the AUX regulator output to ground on the multimeter.

[67rway]

So, she runs now?

[pdecker]

No, I had to bypass the distributor, alternator, and regulator to get the sparks. I'm afraid if I try to bypass the ignition switch and try to start it, I won't be able to shut it off!

[67rway]

Assuming you ran a jumper to the coil + to do so and have spark at the plug wires, she should run.

All you'd have to do to shut it off is remove that jumper wire, or choke it.

If she runs at this point, I'd be checking the OPSS you just put in....