NINA's A4 Overhaul

[Carl-T705]

IMHO It is best to use a counter clockwise drill bit, many times the damaged bolt will extract itself when drilling.

[ILikeRust]

IMHO It is best to use a counter clockwise drill bit, many times the damaged bolt will extract itself when drilling.

Got a convenient source for left-twist bits? McMaster-Carr?

Thanks!

[Kurt]

Hold your horses and drill bits! On many late model engines the water jacket side plate bolts were actually fairly soft metal, that were sort of sacrificial anodes -- they will just twist off and leave some debris in the threaded holes in the block. I had this happen to me and then posted some info and searched the forums here. I discovered that indeed the material left behind, while it did appear to be a solid part of the broken bolt, could actually be dug out by hand using whatever instrument you please. I used a combination of an ice pick and a small screwdriver. I then cleaned up the threads by turning a coarse tap by hand into the threaded holes in the block. No drilling was necessary - simple stuff! Try this first - you may be one of the lucky ones that has the sacrificial, soft water jacket side plate bolts.

[mpleahy]

Lat 64- yesterday my neighbor asked how the distributor was positioned before I removed it...so I pulled up the picture


Kurt- You know I thought those bolts broke too easily.

Again and again- thanks to all.

[Mark S]

. . . she fetched up about a 1/2 mile off shore of Whiting Bay, Maine . . .

I can't add much to this discussion, but I'm curious, how does the A4 do in those wicked tidal currents at the bridge?

Mark

[mpleahy]

I live inside of the Reversing Falls at Pembroke/Trescott on Cobscook Bay. I have made it against the tide at the high or low end (a 20' range) but have to wait it out 70% of the time otherwise. Under the Lubec/Campobello bridge- forget it. Every trip has to be planned carefully with the tidal currents in mind. In many places a good wind against a current produces standing waves which can really toss you around. On the plus side- there is typically an eddy current closer to shore which you can sneak into to get upstream easier. The 30hp A4 is way over powered for these boats. A 9.9 outboard will get a small cruising sail boat to hull speed. But the A4 is quiet, convenient, and magically vanishes when under sail. Thanks for the interest, hope you'll make the voyage someday, I recommend June or September for clear skies and a nice breeze. Fourth of July at Eastport or the Pirate Festival in August are popular and whales abound in August too.

[jpian0923]

They don't have to actually come "out". They can actually go "in" also. They will just fall into the waterjacket and a magnet can get them out...or a finger.

Also, there is only 2 or 3 threads of depth that hold them in.

[jhwelch]

One year I left Eastport at high tide for Lubec narrows, a few miles away, forgetting that the current had already been running out for 90 minutes. The height of the bridge had me a bit worried (if there every was a height board it was ripped off by the current long ago) so I turned around and went through backwards at 6 or 7 knots under moderate power.

This year I was wiser and went under against a moderate head current and caught the start of the ebb in the Bay of Fundy.

-jonathan

[mpleahy]

Good thinking Jpian0!!

JHWelch- That's a great story. Rudder control and an escape plan- a true Downeast sailor! The first time I went through I knew I had the clearance but I was afraid of nailing a piling, no problem though until I tried to round West Quoddy Head on a fresh incoming tide against a brisk northerly. Coffee cups went flying. To prove to my new bride how courageous I was I suggested we ride it out til we rounded the head and leave the influence of the channel which was still draining. Mum was not impressed! So I spun around and we spent the day along Friar Roads photographing eagles and seals. Not very courageous but I converted a landlubber that day.

[mpleahy]

My inner carpenter got impatient last night and started tapping the pipe wrench (on front pulley hub) with a 16 oz. hammer; he then upgraded to a small sledge. Low and behold all of the pistons moved about 1/2 inch after a moderate beating. One and Four reached the top of their stroke but the little darlings would not move below their original sticking point. Juice remains pooled in each cylinder and all must be left as is for a week. Upon return I will continue disassembly toward removal of the oil pan. Please tell me he hasn't wrecked the cylinder walls (or something else) and I promise he won't do it again!

[ILikeRust]

I think the next step is to yank the pan, flip the block over, remove the crank and push the pistons up and out of the block.

Then you can take a good look at the condition of the cylinder walls.

Oh yeah, and of course, somewhere in there, you'll need to take the rear cover (reversing gear housing) off and take the reversing gear assembly out, if you havent' already.

[CalebD]

Is that 'T27' #604 "Nina" a Tartan 27'?
If so the inner writer in you might also enjoy the Tartan 27 owners group we have going over at yahoo: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/T27Owners/
If it is a Tartan 27' then #604 was made in 1975.

This forum (MMI) is the right place for helping you get your A4 back up and running.

Just keep that inner carpenter on a short leash for now!

[mpleahy]

Hey folks, I removed the oil pan today and took some pics. I'm pondering whether or not I should deal with this thing myself or bring it to a machine shop for cleaning, service, and reassembly. The Moyer manual tells me the next step is to remove the valves etc. I feel like if I go that far I'm all in and not sure I'm up to the task. The pistons move but only with serious force on the shaft. I'm not sure if I'm looking for encouragment or a dose of reality given my skill set and available time. I don't mind spending a few hundred dollars but if I'm looking at a grand or more then I can probably find the courage to keep going. My fear is that taking things apart is easy and I haven't taken much apart yet. I could use some advice.

[sastanley]

If the pistons move..what does the otherside look like?

[CalebD]

Actually your tranny and crank shaft sections look pretty good to me. I see very little rust. A good thorough cleaning job and finally re-oiling these sections might just do the trick. Marvel Mystery oil is a rust inhibitor, smells like wintergreen and you'll probably need a few quarts of it for your overhaul. I'd probably even use MMO for wet sanding with a high grit paper on the most corroded spots.
I'd worry more about your pistons, valves and manifold.
Try to start channeling your inner metallurgist.

I don't think there is any shame in taking the engine to a place that can do a re-bore on the cylinders, if that is what it needs. I know that I will not be doing a cylinder re-bore myself if/when the time comes.
I'm not an expert in A4 over hauling so I can't tell you what it needs. I can tell you that I am impressed with what you have managed to take apart so far.

Don't despair or lose hope; there is a long winter ahead and there will be plenty of feedback from the more experienced A4 mechanics here.

Shaun,
I wondered the same thing. He posted pics of the other side in post #2 which do not look as clean.