Hi Don,
I removed my cylinder head at your recommendation since I had some bubbling in my coolant expansion tank and persistant water in my oil. I did this while the engine was still in the boat and found that part of the remaining head gasket is a fibrous material...Hence, I think you were correct about it being asbestos....and probably original.
What a job! Removing the studs and pulling the head took me two evenings, my stud removal tool, incredible patience, many ounces of Kroil penetrating oil, lots of TLC and elbow grease, and I still snapped off 3 studs. Both thermostat housing studs snapped off flush with the top of the head and a third (middle front) snapped off flush with the block. I was eventually able to persuade the head off the block with the thermostat housing studs in place, but that took almost a whole evening's work. To make sure no hairline cracks resulted I am having the head magna-fluxed, resurfaced, and bead blasted.
After the head was pulled, I was still unable to remove the thermostat housing studs out of the block with vice grips. I let it sit overnight again (day 3) with another dose of Kroil soaking around the studs. I already have to drill out the middle front stud and hate the idea of drilling these other two as well, risking damage to the coarse threads in the block, requiring two additional repair studs, etc. As an alternative, is it worthwhile to apply some heat to those studs as additional persuasion to the vice grips, continued dousings of Kroil, and tapping on the sides of the exposed studs? I don't want to waste my time fighting windmills or start a fire.
Also, the screwdrivers I used to pry the head up scarred the front of the block surface a little...but I stayed clear of the values. When I reinstall the head, should I use any Permatex aviation sealer in addition to the two graphite gaskets or is that over compensating for the scratches in the head surface? Thanks.
I removed my cylinder head at your recommendation since I had some bubbling in my coolant expansion tank and persistant water in my oil. I did this while the engine was still in the boat and found that part of the remaining head gasket is a fibrous material...Hence, I think you were correct about it being asbestos....and probably original.
What a job! Removing the studs and pulling the head took me two evenings, my stud removal tool, incredible patience, many ounces of Kroil penetrating oil, lots of TLC and elbow grease, and I still snapped off 3 studs. Both thermostat housing studs snapped off flush with the top of the head and a third (middle front) snapped off flush with the block. I was eventually able to persuade the head off the block with the thermostat housing studs in place, but that took almost a whole evening's work. To make sure no hairline cracks resulted I am having the head magna-fluxed, resurfaced, and bead blasted.
After the head was pulled, I was still unable to remove the thermostat housing studs out of the block with vice grips. I let it sit overnight again (day 3) with another dose of Kroil soaking around the studs. I already have to drill out the middle front stud and hate the idea of drilling these other two as well, risking damage to the coarse threads in the block, requiring two additional repair studs, etc. As an alternative, is it worthwhile to apply some heat to those studs as additional persuasion to the vice grips, continued dousings of Kroil, and tapping on the sides of the exposed studs? I don't want to waste my time fighting windmills or start a fire.
Also, the screwdrivers I used to pry the head up scarred the front of the block surface a little...but I stayed clear of the values. When I reinstall the head, should I use any Permatex aviation sealer in addition to the two graphite gaskets or is that over compensating for the scratches in the head surface? Thanks.
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