Zero volts at the coil. Noooooooo...
not so running. Or starting.
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Originally posted by smosh View PostZero volts at the coil. Noooooooo...
While taking the reading tap on the key\switch with a screwdriver handle to see if there is there is an intermediate connection inside it.
This way you will know it the problem is with the key\switch or the wiring.
We're getting closer.
TRUE GRIT
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Originally posted by JOHN COOKSON View PostNext you will need to check the voltage at the terminal on the key\switch that supplies electricity to the coil when it is in the on position. Probably a purple wire.
While taking the reading tap on the key\switch with a screwdriver handle to see if there is there is an intermediate connection inside it.
This way you will know it the problem is with the key\switch or the wiring.
We're getting closer.
TRUE GRIT
I connected up a new switch. Tested across from batt to both the start post and ignition post: 12v. Ran test wire from ignition post to positive on coil. No voltage at coil. Negative from coil goes to the distributor....do I have a ground issue on there?
Was feeling like I was getting somewhere. Switch is ok, and I’ll say wiring from switch to coil should be ok.Stella Blue - a 1986 O'Day 272 with a Volvo Penta MD7A diesel
former owner of Euphoria - a 1971 Tartan 30 with an Atomic 4
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Your engine will not start or run until you can read "12" volts at coil + when the key is the run position.
Coil - is not a ground. The grounding takes place inside the distributor when the points (or EI) are in the closed position - this allows electricity to flow through the primary windings of the coil. When electricity stops flowing through the primary coil windings (points open) the secondary winding spits out a mighty bolt of high voltage electricity which fires the spark plug.
TRUE GRIT
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Is it possible that when you replaced the cap last year that the little grounding wire to the electronic ignition that slinks out of a little notch under that cap got misdirected away from the notch and minced? Or that the cap you used doesn’t have the notch at all?
I haven’t replaced my cap in a while but I forget if that notch is pre-cut on new caps, or if I had to carve it out myself with a Dremel or rigging knife.
The integrity of that wire is critical to the functioning of the EI. There might even be two of those wires, I forget.Last edited by tenders; 07-08-2018, 08:57 AM.
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tenders - i don't think i have electronic ignition?
this is the bottom of the distributor...points and condenser.
I probably should have ordered new guts for this...Stella Blue - a 1986 O'Day 272 with a Volvo Penta MD7A diesel
former owner of Euphoria - a 1971 Tartan 30 with an Atomic 4
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so, I can test the coil if i run a test lead from the - of the coil to the block. That will isolate the coil, or the workings inside the distributor.
That's the complete circuit... battery to keyswitch --> coil + ---> coil - ---> points ----> ground?Stella Blue - a 1986 O'Day 272 with a Volvo Penta MD7A diesel
former owner of Euphoria - a 1971 Tartan 30 with an Atomic 4
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Originally posted by smosh View Posttenders - i don't think i have electronic ignition?
this is the bottom of the distributor...points and condenser.
I probably should have ordered new guts for this...
You should certainly replace the points and condenser and set the gap.
I'd brighten up that rotor tip as well.
IF this were my vessel, I'd consider replacing the whole dizzy...-Jerry
'Lone Ranger'
sigpic
1978 RANGER 30
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what we did, or verified, today:
cleaned up the points and the wire ends, putting new connectors on.
put new connectors on the leads, positive and negative, going to the ignition coil
tested spark: strong spark
fuel pump does not pull power from the coil positive terminal (where Moyer instructions say to connect)
Fuel pump DOES run if direct to battery.
Motor does crank over (so battery power is getting to the switch, and to the solenoid) And spark is strong.
Tested voltage across coil: zero. Tested from positive on coil to engine ground: zero.
Swapped the old coil back in.
Connected a constant power directly to the coil positive (alligator clip lead from the power at starter the coil), the fuel pump operates and the motor fires up and runs! Runs well!
While it was running, tested voltage across ignition coil + to - : fluctuating 1 to 2 volts or so.
Let it run for a while....then turned it off by pulling that alligator clipped lead.
Tried to start it again and will not start.
So that's where I'm at.
I am planning on replacing the points and condenser. Or can i just upgrade to electronic by using the Petronix "ignitor" for $112?Stella Blue - a 1986 O'Day 272 with a Volvo Penta MD7A diesel
former owner of Euphoria - a 1971 Tartan 30 with an Atomic 4
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Wow. I think the electronic ignition is a huge upgrade, but I wouldn't be putting new electronic parts into this setup that might get shorted out until you figure out what is the problem with the existing configuration.
You got her running by directly connecting the coil + to the battery +, so there is nothing significantly wrong with ANY of the components. Seems to me this is a wiring or connection problem, no?
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Originally posted by smosh View PostTested from positive on coil to engine ground: zero. . . . .Connected a constant power directly to the coil positive (alligator clip lead from the power at starter the coil), the fuel pump operates and the motor fires up and runs! Runs well!
fuel pump does not pull power from the coil positive terminal (where Moyer instructions say to connect)
Tested voltage across coil: zero. . . . . While it was running, tested voltage across ignition coil + to - : fluctuating 1 to 2 volts or so.
Chase down the ignition wire from the keyswitch to the coil, every inch of it by testing for voltage to a solid ground with the key on (coil disconnected for testing please). The first test is on the "I" terminal of the keyswitch.Last edited by ndutton; 07-09-2018, 08:59 AM.Neil
1977 Catalina 30
San Pedro, California
prior boats 1987 Westsail 32, 1970 Catalina 22
Had my hands in a few others
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Neil’s last sentence EXACTLY. You are going to find some dumb little thing that is broken, or corroded, or loose, or misconnected (ie, coil wire connected to “start” terminal on keyswitch instead of “run” terminal) that has been the source of all this angst.
What led you to decide to hotwire the coil? That was a good idea.
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