Just another overhaul thread

[Ando]

My two cents and a question

$0.02: I noticed the copper scavange-type tube connector from your fuel pump to the carb. You may consider replacing that copper tube with a fuel line and a polishing filter as shown here: https://moyermarine.com/mmi360/r1.html

Question: (and forgive my ignorance) will you be painting over the POR-15? Could you if you wanted to or no?

[Surcouf]

$0.02: I noticed the copper scavange-type tube connector from your fuel pump to the carb. You may consider replacing that copper tube with a fuel line and a polishing filter as shown here: https://moyermarine.com/mmi360/r1.html

Question: (and forgive my ignorance) will you be painting over the POR-15? Could you if you wanted to or no?

Thank you. I take all the 2 cents I can take!!

Regarding paint, yes I plan to paint over, I purchase a couple cans to MM, without even checking the detailed paint spec from POR 15, but I am pretty sure I read a couple other overhaul threads mentioning they did it without issue. This is what I found on POR website. So hopefully it will work.

https://www.por15.com/POR-15-FAQS_ep_61.html

[Surcouf]

Just discard them, I used the foam brushes and higher quality Harbor freight brushes (which is an oxymoron) and are still cheap.

Also, if you let POR-15 get in the lip of the can where the metal lid attaches, you can forget about opening it again. What I do when i open the gallon, I have the metal quart paint containers from home depot on hand. Then I paint everything I can possibly paint and then pour the remnants carefully into the fresh quart containers and seal. Good for about a year if done well.

if you are using the quarts, keep a couple of the metal pint containers on hand as well.

Nothing beats experience, thank you! I do not remember if I let some paint on the metal lid... if I did so, I will have to get a clean one as you advice, and will drill a hole in the cap to recover the paint! I guess that is one more thing on my HD list!

[GregH]

Thank you. I take all the 2 cents I can take!!

This is what I found on POR website. So hopefully it will work.
https://www.por15.com/POR-15-FAQS_ep_61.html

Please note from their FAQ about painting over - "POR-15 Tie-Coat Primer is the best prime coat to use before topcoating POR-15. "

I wouldn't do it without a proper tie coat for the POR or it might just be flaking off much sooner than one wants.

[Dave Neptune]

Painting parts

I've always painted heads with some old plugs installed, easier than taping off.

I also "usually" place a piece of dowel or an old bolt/stud in any threaded holes, again easier than taping off.

Dave Neptune

[Surcouf]

questions

the issues and questions continue...

Question 1: How do you clean the valve guides, before installing teh valves back? What product? I have a bunch of thin brushes (Harbor Fr**ght kit), plastic and metal - which ones should I use?

Question 2: Same question for the head "through holes" where studs go through. I guess I can use metal brushes here wthout any concern (I do not care of "scoring / marking those ones as much as the valves guides)

while I was chiseling / hammering / removing rust from by block yesterday, something that looked like either JB weld / very old plug or bolt broke loose: it is located behind the alternator-accessory pulley, and is a hole going into the "water jacket compartment" (so located at the bottom left side of that compartment, if I face the water jacket side plate). I have seen on this blog several engine that had a nipple installed in that hole to flush the water system for maintenance. I tried to clean as much as I could, and passed a 5/16 tap-thread, but I am not sure if I actually cleaned previous thread, or if it was just making its way through rust concretion. So Question 3: what is the original thread for that hole? Should I install a brass plug here? what would you recommend to do here to avoid any leak?

Thank you !!!

[ndutton]

Q3:
1/8" pipe thread (NPT 1/8-27)

[Surcouf]

Q3:
1/8" pipe thread (NPT 1/8-27)

So this is bad. I will make a dedicated thread for that one

[Surcouf]

So the compromised thread on the jacket taken care of by the machine shop, at the same time as a broken screw in the bell housing. Required to load the engine in the car again... but worth it.

So short question for you guys: pictures of valve seat with and without lapping. Is that enough? Or should I go for more lapping?

[ronstory]

More lapping is needed. You can still see pitting on the surface.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l8_dVrKz5BI

Look at the video at around 2:30 for the valve (not the best image) and at 3:15 for what the valve seat should look like.


I have a similar drill attachment, works great and is fast. Just remember to put lots of oil on the valve stem.

Good luck! You are now at the fun stage.

Edit: Did you have the shop cut the valve seat for you?

[Surcouf]

More lapping is needed. You can still see pitting on the surface.

Good luck! You are now at the fun stage.

Edit: Did you have the shop cut the valve seat for you?

Thank you.
No shop did not cut the seats. This is a partial overhaul only, crankshaft was not removed.

I do not have a "drill suction tool", and mid-way through the effort I went to Pep Girls get the usual suction tool mounted on a wood stick. I had very limited success. The larger valves have a flat bottom, and were OK. These ones are the least corroded anyway. The smallest ones (intake I suppose), are the most corroded, and took way more time to lap. Moreover, they have a "concave base", that defeats the suction cups. I have grinded several layer of my fingers skin to get to an acceptable result.
So at the end, it took me the best of 6 hours to lap those valves, and a very large can of carb cleaner to make sure to clean the valve guides between each step.

I then went into the installation of the valves. The MM Marine manual describes that as a frustrating experience... I was ready for the worst, but all went back very nicely in less than 30 minutes (the advice from MM manual to do that with the engine tilted on its side is priceless; would have been a nightmare to do on a vertical position). So I spent another 30 minutes under the impression I had done something wrong, lifting / dropping the spring to verify that all was OK, and that the small keys were not wrongly installed. Good to go.
Now I have to look into my paint job catastrophe, but that is a story for another day!

[Surcouf]

Loading / unloading with ladder, Only way to load alone, shy of owning the right tool... Pictures I forgot to take the previous round...

[ronstory]

Well, you got though the lapping process... and your time in getting the lifters and valves in made up for the frustration. Good job!

I love the ladder idea, my engine was dropped off this morning to the machine shop. But mine is fully disassembled so the block, oil pan and then just two boxes of parts.

Oh, seeing the owner and tech look at motor was similar to folks looking at a box of puppies. "Well isn't that cute" was the best comment.

[Surcouf]

so at the beginning of that adventure, the goal was simple: remove the engine from the boat, remove the head and get these dead spark plugs out, and paint the block. There was a few things that were on my "do-not-touch" list. That list is getting shorter by the day... So the head is back on its block, bolts torqued etc... I was going through the multiple steps of POR painting" old paint stripping, another de-grease, metal prep etc... and just when I was going through the last step, I discovered that the bottom of the distributor body was very corroded (I knew that), but so much that the tube had a hole in it!!! So after crying a few minutes, I finally decided to do what I should have done 3 months ago: remove the distributor.

But of course, on a very rusted block, nothing goes normally. Even with the clamp not touching the distributor, distributor would not bulge, despite the different products sprayed during weeks. ((I am ready to bet that the distributor was not checked - tuned for a least a decade by the PO))). So I huffed, I puffed.. and I broke the ***###n distributor tube (See pictures below). So now the tube is broken, but the gear is still in. So I cannot remove the distributor, blocked by the broken tube stuck solid in the accessory module body. Just out of frustration, I first took my largest hammer and started to hit the distributor body hoping that the aluminium would shatter. No luck!

So I had to remove the accessory gear (by the way another gasket to order to MM). A lot of corrosion and rust, but I am getting better at that and 20 minutes later it was out. And now what???

So Question:
- I have a broken distributor "tube" stuck in my accessory module... what can I do now with the distributor shaft still in place? How do I remove the "plate" that is rotating with the shaft and located at the bottom of the distributor? (see 4th picture below). Do I need a very small extractor?
- Once I remove that plate, and so can remove the broken distributor body, how can I remove the shaft, still linked to the gear, blocked by the broken tube??
- if I can get the shaft out (how?), how do I remove the broken tube? I drill it out?

Thank you for your help!!!

PS: And of course, the bolt holding the clamp broke... and now I have to find a way to remove it... and I have learnt my lessons: screw extractors just DO NOT work!!!

[Surcouf]

Pictures first