My A4 starts great/runs great for about 3min then quits. There is a seacock where the fresh water comes in to prevent the engine flooding with water. I forgot to shut it. Started the engine and blew the head gasket. I replaced the head gasket. Although in the process 2 of the studs broke off. I had to retap the holes and put in new studs. Also the thermostat had a crack in it so I ordered a new one and replaced it. After getting the engine put back together she started great and ran great but stalls. I thought the issue was fuel. I put in a new water separating fuel filter. Took off the fuel pump and carb, cleaned them out and replaced with new gaskets. The engine is getting fuel. Once the engine gets up to temp it shuts down. Theres no temperature gauge installed. It’s spitting out water well. I have a YouTube channel. Sailing Reckless. Theres an episode called Don’t watch this unless you love engines. I think in that one you can see the engine.
Revs down and shuts off! HELP
Collapse
X
-
"Sounds as if your float valve may be sticking or only opening a little and not allowing fuel to refill the carb properly."
When I opened up the carburetor the float and pin both looked really good. Nothing that would lead me to believe that it may be sticking. What would cause that?Last edited by SailingReckless; 05-24-2019, 10:16 PM.
Comment
-
-
"SR, does it die like it was shut off or sputter and shake to a stop? Do you have points?"
The engine starts easily and once started I can push the choke back in and throttle down to idle. Runs well for a few minutes and then just shuts down. No sputtering or shaking. More like the key got turned off. Throttling up or choking does not help keep it running. And...I don't know what points are!
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by SailingReckless View Post"SR, does it die like it was shut off or sputter and shake to a stop? Do you have points?"
.... And...I don't know what points are!
I think Dave is wondering if your engine has been modified with a new "pointless" ignition set in the distributor.
Since this is unfamiliar stuff for you, we may have to do some remedial engine education. That's ok. Sometimes we talk way over the heads of non mech types. You would best be served to read up(or youtube) on basic spark ignition types. Ill post some resource links here soon.
Last edited by lat 64; 05-25-2019, 01:47 AM.sigpic Whiskeyjack a '68 Columbia 36 rebuilt A-4 with 2:1
"Since when is napping doing nothing?"
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by Marian Claire View Post
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by lat 64 View PostIgnition breaker points.
I think Dave is wondering if your engine has been modified with a new "pointless" ignition set in the distributor.
Since this is unfamiliar stuff for you, we may have to do some remedial engine education. That's ok. Sometimes we talk way over the heads of non mech types. You would best be served to read up(or youtube) on basic spark ignition types. Ill post some resource links here soon.
https://youtu.be/W94iksaQwUo
And thank you for your patience
Comment
-
-
Info
RE the ignition, I was wondering if it just may be the "condenser or coil" but 3 minutes is a bit fast for those to open.
Do you have an electric fuel pump? If so check the oil pressure switch wiring as the fuel pump may only be working when cranking. Rare but possible.
We need to know a bit more about your engine and if it has been changed from original points & mechanical fuel pump.
Hoe is the wiring? Did you check for voltage at the coil when it dies?
Dave Neptune
Comment
-
-
Last night I was reading a thread about fuel/air leaks. I would not doubt that I have one or several of these. I have recently figured something out....when something says hand tighten....that is meant for a man. My hand tighten usually isn't snug enough. However an issue I am running in to is that a lot of the metal is soft and tools are rounding parts over
Comment
-
-
SR, rounding off parts(?) do you mean nuts a bolts rounding? If so sounds more like bad tools or non factory rated stuff has been added. Also do not use open end wrenches whenever a 6 or 12 point will get on the hex far stronger and better on the nuts & bolts. Make sure they fit nice before twisting saves many a nut, bolt and knuckle.
Dave Neptune
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by SailingReckless View PostI watched the video and now know what points are but I’m sorry I don’t know if I have the pointless set.
And thank you for your patience
You might just be a great candidate for some of Don's online videos.
Really detailed step-by-step instruction and for $12 boat bucks, it's a great deal.
The Carb Troubleshooting and Ignition Timing would both be recommended.
Available here on this site from our host.-Jerry
'Lone Ranger'
sigpic
1978 RANGER 30
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by Dave Neptune View PostRE the ignition, I was wondering if it just may be the "condenser or coil" but 3 minutes is a bit fast for those to open.
Do you have an electric fuel pump? If so check the oil pressure switch wiring as the fuel pump may only be working when cranking. Rare but possible.
We need to know a bit more about your engine and if it has been changed from original points & mechanical fuel pump.
Hoe is the wiring? Did you check for voltage at the coil when it dies?
Dave Neptune
Last year when I turned the key over there was a buzzing sound down at the engine. This year no buzzing. Buzzing like a warning system. I don’t know if I disconnected a wire on accident🤦🏻*♀️ I’ll post pics of everything. I’m sure that will help. I’ll be at the boat tomorrow.
Comment
-
-
Originally posted by Dave Neptune View PostSR, rounding off parts(?) do you mean nuts a bolts rounding? If so sounds more like bad tools or non factory rated stuff has been added. Also do not use open end wrenches whenever a 6 or 12 point will get on the hex far stronger and better on the nuts & bolts. Make sure they fit nice before twisting saves many a nut, bolt and knuckle.
Dave Neptune
Comment
-
Comment