Removing Shaft Coupler for Removal

[Tonto R33]

Hi,
I have a Ranger 33 with an A4 that’s in rough shape and needing rebuilding. I’ve begun undoing things and labeling/taking pics and video/notes, but now I’m stuck on how to get the shaft coupler off. Is there a post somewhere that details this process? Maybe some could just tell me plain and Simple from the photo. Thanks for all the help in advance. Looking forward to taking this project ashore.

Mike

[Surcouf]

mine was dead rusted too... the "square head" screw that maintains the coupler on the shaft was rusted shut, and would not bulge.
So based on the advice of the group here, I just disconnected the coupler from the engine shaft flange and "pushed the shaft back" while turning it manually (after careful cleaning of the shaft right before the stuffing box).
And let's be honest here, I plan to do the exact same thing reverse when I put the engine back in...

You can see how worse mine was, and the wise advice from the gang, on the first page of my overhaul thread

http://www.moyermarineforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11241

[Al Schober]

There are 3 bolts there that hold the coupling to the engine. Remove them and get the engine out of the way - perhaps home to the shop?
Recommend you consider removing the coupling with a saw (reciprocating power with a carbide blade). New split coupling. Shaft and stuffing box may clean up fine.
How has it been shifting? I think you also need a new shift cable.

[jcwright]

Based on hard-earned experience with a stiff shift cable (ie, destruction of essentials within reversing gear), and based on the photo you provide, I second Al's suggestion to check the status of the shift cable. Specifically, do not rely on whether it is possible, with the advantage of your shift lever, to engage forward. Rather, detach the shift lever at both ends and test for ease of motion in the cable itself. Of course, ignore this suggestion if you have clear evidence that all is well.

Jack.

[Boat]

Check the status?? that cable is toast

[Tonto R33]

Thanks for your feedback. The shifting cable is definitely toast. It won't shift into reverse, even with my hand pulling on the shifter attached to the transmission. It shifts fine into forward. I notice there is some "slop" when playing with the shifter in neutral. Is that normal or cause for concern?

As for removing the engine in an ideal world with no bolts that wont budge, let me know if there is anything else in addition to the following.
1.) Remove 3 nuts on 'direct drive shaft coupling'
2.) Loosen square nut to release shaft
3.) Remove mounting bolts
4.) Gently lift engine off mounts and work it forward off the shaft

if that square bolt doesn't budge, I'll take Surcouf's advice and try to 'disconnect the coupler from the engine shaft flange and "push the shaft back" while turning it manually (after careful cleaning of the shaft right before the stuffing box)."...question, is the stuffing box that threaded section just forward of the hose clamp? I'm having trouble visualizing this.
Al, you recommend cutting the coupler off, where exactly? I'm super green with all this stuff and just want to avoid expensive mistakes. Drives me crazy the boat is 3 hours away! I'll be back down there next week and let you know whatever progress I make. Thank you all so much.

Mike

[ndutton]

As for removing the engine in an ideal world with no bolts that wont budge, let me know if there is anything else in addition to the following.

• Remove exhaust at the manifold coupling
• Remove the throttle and shift cable
• Remove the fuel supply hose
• Carefully mark and remove the wiring harness
• Remove the battery cables from the starter post and block
• If raw water cooled, remove the raw water intake and discharge hoses or alternatively if fresh water cooled remove the heat exchanger intake and discharge hoses

[Al Schober]

After moving the engine, you may want to try removing the coupling using a standard puller. Remove the square head bolt, apply heat, etc..
Coupling removal using recip saw - engine out of the way. Position saw so blade is parallel to shaft CL (easiest with saw over shaft), turn on saw, saw until you're close to the shaft. Insert wedge (screwdriver?) in saw cut and expand coupling. Heat is good.
It will come off!

[lat 64]

I recommend the "sawsall'.
I used a cheap cordless back in '09. It still works great today.

Cut it to split it lengthwise. Just a good bimetal blade and WD-40 to keep it from burning the blade. If you can, cut down onto the keyway so it won't saw into the shaft. Patient cutting at a slow speed and a beverage or two will win the day.

Russ