Sealant for fittings

[Ando]

I think I made a rookie mistake by using plumbers tape (rather than permatex) for the fittings on the cooling system. I haven’t started the engine yet so I’m not sure if there are any leaks. Just wondering how bad a mistake it is and if I should just re-do it using permatex.

[ronstory]

If you were careful to keep the teflon tape back from the last 1-2 of threads of pipe/connector while making connections, you will be fine.

If you were "over enthusiastic" in the wrapping of the thread past the pipe thread ends, I would pull and redo.

Teflon is not my preferred solution, but if I don't have perametex and need to fix something now, I would be fine using it.

This is probably why I have 4-5 tubes of #2 'strategically placed' across two garages, many tool boxes and a boat.

[JOHN COOKSON]

I use pipe thread compound (AKA "pipe dope") on water barbs, and threads hoses fitting ect. Something called TFE paste works well. Available at any hardware store.
It was easier for me to smear a bit of pipe dope on the fitting with my finger than fool with the tape. Each to their own I guess.

ex TRUE GRIT

[Al Schober]

My practice was to use the brown Permatex #2A for oil seals (gaskets, etc). For water (potable and coolant) I used the Permatex Blue Silicone. Teflon tape will work fine if a) it's wrapped the right way (easy to get wrong), and b) shreds of it don't get into the system.
Permatex is a brand name - they make a lot of good stuff. As I recall, the various grades of Loctite thread locker are also a Permatex product. Wonder if I own any of their stock?

[Boat]

My practice was to use the brown Permatex #2A for oil seals (gaskets, etc). For water (potable and coolant) I used the Permatex Blue Silicone. Teflon tape will work fine if a) it's wrapped the right way (easy to get wrong), and b) shreds of it don't get into the system.
Permatex is a brand name - they make a lot of good stuff. As I recall, the various grades of Loctite thread locker are also a Permatex product. Wonder if I own any of their stock?

illinois tool works.. ITW is the ticker its in my collection, the sealants and the stock

[dplidr@gmail.com]

water passage sealant

I've been using the Permatex Aviation on anything I don't plan to remove and Permatex type2 (non-hardening) on anything I may need to remove. Seems to be working OK



FWIW - I spent this weekend chasing leaks to the water jacket on my almost complete overhaul. The air-preassure gauge and shraeder valve has been a lifesaver.

Charging up to 20 PSI showed slow leaks (about 3 minutes to bleed down to zero)
A bit of water and dishsoap has helped me ID the leaks - mostly in the new temp sensor manifold and a tiny leak in the water jacket plate. re-sealed and re-tightened and at this point the entire water jacket including the manifold appear to be tight. (Injecting the air at the port that will feed my exhaust).


Still a very slow leak at the hose-valve on the flush-bucket that will supply the initial water. Taking about 12 minutes for the air pressure to bleed down.

IF nothing else is leaking after I fix that - next step is to add Oil and V-Drive oil and test for oil pressure before taking a compression measurement.

[JOHN COOKSON]

A bit of water and dishsoap has helped me ID the leaks - mostly in the new temp sensor manifold and a tiny leak in the water jacket plate. re-sealed and re-tightened and at this point the entire water jacket including the manifold appear to be tight. .

Careful using sealants with temperature senders. The insulating properties of the sealant can skew the gauge readings. A resistance reading between the body of the sending unit and what it is screwed into or better yet battery ground (S\B zero ohms) will tell you if there is any insulation going on.

ex TRUE GRIT