Water Jacket Side Plate Leak

[1973 Ericson]

I had some cooling water seeping by the water jacket side plate gasket and has scaled up the alternator side of the block badly. I removed the alternator, starter, accessory drive pulley and scraped away all the loose paint. The rust on the upper part of the block seemed to be very superficial however down on the flange where the engine mounts bolt on and below on the oil pan and the engine mounts it seemed to be a bit worse. I was able to loosen and remove the water jacket side plate the bolts and the threads in the side of the block are in surprisingly good shape.

I will get some photos and add them to the post the next time I am at the boat

The engine is a c.1973 Late Model A4, Raw Water Cooled, Direct Drive, 2 blade 11x7 Prop. No Upgrades in an Ericson 29

Love the engine....Overall the engine runs well has good compression (around 100psi on all cylinders) A little bit of blow-by fumes. Starts easily, runs around 170 deg when cruising along, and has relatively good power in calm seas however slows to 3 or 4 knots with a stiff headwind.

I have the Moyer service and overhaul manual but the details are a little sketchy in this particular area

1. How would you assess the condition of the exterior of the block

2. How do I save the block from deteriorating further due to external corrosion (ospho? Engine Enamel?)

3. Inside the waterjacket is VERY gunked up (I'm amazed it cools at all). What should it look like when cleaned up? Should there be passages all the way through between each of the cylinder walls? How do I clean it up and get all the gunk out?

4. How do I seal and re-install the waterjacket side plate so I dont get any more cancerous water leaks? Especially, how do I seal the mounting bolt holes?

5. There wasnt a diverter cap installed on the side plate T-Fitting. should there have been one? Should I add one?

Thanks in advance... I'll add photos when I get a chance

Tug
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E32

[1973 Ericson]

Side Plate Leak...Photos Added

Here are a couple of photos of the water jacket with side plate removed.
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silver surfer reviews

[Don Moyer]

Here is a recent Q&A we prepared on the installation of a diverter cap in the back of a water jacket side plate:

Q: What is a diverter cap, and how do I install one?

A: In late model engines, the diverter cap is a standard brass 3/8" hex-headed pipe cap installed on the stem of the "T" fitting inside the center of the water jacket side plate. Diverter caps are also used on early model engines when their cast iron side plate is being replaced with a late model style side plate. In the case of early model "full flow" cooling systems, the "T" fitting used on late model engines is replaced with a 3/8" 90 degree brass fitting in the following instructions.

The cap is modified after installation by drilling a 3/8" hole on the side, to divert water aft and down approximately 45 degrees, and a second 1/4" hole in the original top of the cap to divert some incoming water directly across to the manifold side of the engine.

INSTALLING A DIVERTER CAP:

1) If the "T" fitting does not extend in past the back of the side plate by at least three threads, the hole will have to be opened up a bit, using a 3/8" tapered pipe tap. Don't overdo the enlarging process in the beginning, and try the "T" fitting frequently to determine the fit of the "T" fitting.

2) After getting three threads (or so) of the "T" fitting through the side plate, dry fit the diverter cap on the end of the "T" fitting, tightening the cap until one of the hex sides faces aft, and down about 45 degrees. Remove the cap and drill a 3/8" hole in that hex side, and a second 1/4" hole in the front of the cap. The 1/4" hole should face in the direction of the manifold side of the engine.

NOTE 1: Because the stem of the 3/8" "T" is a tapered pipe thread, it is not possible to know on which side of the hex head the 3/8" hole will need to be drilled until the cap has been actually "dry-fitted" to the "T".

3) Reinstall the cap on the end of the "T" fitting using a good sealer. Permatex Cold-Weld works well on the stem of the "T" fitting and on the inside threads of the cap itself.

NOTE 2: As an alternative to dry-fitting the cap and removing it for drilling the holes as per step (2) above, the cap can be installed using JB Weld, making sure that one of the flat spots in the hex head faces aft and down approximately 45 degrees, and then drilling the two holes with the cap mounted on the back of the plate.

We offer a fully assembled unit, if that's your preference.

Don

[1973 Ericson]

Leaking Water Jacket Side Plate

Don,

Thanks for the response on the diverter cap I will definitely order one to install. ( I may actually get the entire side plate assembly... the old one is quite pitted on the inside and isnt flat anymore and wont fit flat against the side of the block.

Do you have any suggestions on how to remove the rust from the outside of the block and paint it to keep the corrosion from causing further harm. I have access to a hoist to pull the engine so I can get good access to all sides of the engine.

Do you have a good photo or sketch of the inside of the water jacket. Mine is so fouled up it is hard to make a distinction between the gunk and the casting. If there were passages between the individual cylinder walls they are filled in. What should I use to clean all the gunk out?

When it comes time to reinstall the side plate. How do you seal the side plate and especially how do you seal the mounting holes.

Thanks again

Tug
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FJ

[Don Moyer]

Tug,

We send all our water-jacketed castings to a local shop for hot tanking and shot peening. For do-it-yourself cleaning, we simply use scrapers and wire brushes (manual and installed in an electric drill).

I don't have any photos of the inside of a water jacket that would be useful for you in your cleaning operation. The most important item is that only the two center cylinders have a space between them (approximately 5/16"). The two end cylinders are joined together.

We use Permatex Aviation Brand Sealer on the threads of the water jacket side plate bolts.

Don

[1973 Ericson]

Thanks for the helpful information

Don,

Thank you for the helpful info. I have scraped away the loose rust on the outside of the block and found the passage between cylinders 2 and 3. and de-crudded the water jacket as well as I could using a small screw driver. I'll probably acid flush it and pressure flush it when I get it closed back up.

I think I will clean and degrease the exterior of the block and use Ospho to hopefully halt the rust and prime the surface then spray the block with an engine enamel paint. Any words of advice...
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