I am still tracking down oil leaks in my late model A-4. I replaced the water pump, which was indeed leaking, and am now looking at removing the flywheel to check the oil drain holes in the flywheel housing. However... I only have about one inch clearance at the front of the engine. (I have great access everywhere else.) After I removed the starter motor I checked out the accessory drive and it seems that this may actually be the source of the starboard side oil leak.
So, the questions are:
1) How far forward does the flywheel have to move to come off? I suspect more than one inch. I can gently saw the cabin sole away & gain maybe 1/2 inch more, but my measurements indicate that this is probably not enough. Anybody know?
2) As I replace the accessory drive, how do I ensure that I get the distributor back in the right place? That is: how do I keep the timing correct or reset it correctly? If I move the engine to #1 at TDC and mark the rotor position on the distributor housing will that do it? (Assuming I don't move the engine and replace the distributor with the rotor pointing at my mark.) How do I insure that I am actually at TDC & not the exhaust stroke? ...or can I just mark it & put it back in the same spot? (Not moving the engine, of course.)
I am a little concerned about both of these because I don't want to have a very heavy flywheel half off and jammed up against structural a cross member AND, of course if I screw up the timing by moving the distributor, I'll have a *wonderful* spring troubleshooting experience that I'd rather miss <grin>.
Anyway, if anyone has any suggestions I'd be grateful,
Ken Miller
Sault Sainte Marie, MI
(Yes, on Lake Superior)
So, the questions are:
1) How far forward does the flywheel have to move to come off? I suspect more than one inch. I can gently saw the cabin sole away & gain maybe 1/2 inch more, but my measurements indicate that this is probably not enough. Anybody know?
2) As I replace the accessory drive, how do I ensure that I get the distributor back in the right place? That is: how do I keep the timing correct or reset it correctly? If I move the engine to #1 at TDC and mark the rotor position on the distributor housing will that do it? (Assuming I don't move the engine and replace the distributor with the rotor pointing at my mark.) How do I insure that I am actually at TDC & not the exhaust stroke? ...or can I just mark it & put it back in the same spot? (Not moving the engine, of course.)
I am a little concerned about both of these because I don't want to have a very heavy flywheel half off and jammed up against structural a cross member AND, of course if I screw up the timing by moving the distributor, I'll have a *wonderful* spring troubleshooting experience that I'd rather miss <grin>.
Anyway, if anyone has any suggestions I'd be grateful,
Ken Miller
Sault Sainte Marie, MI
(Yes, on Lake Superior)
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