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  #1   IP: 107.72.162.92
Old 05-18-2017, 08:32 AM
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BLACKBIRD2 BLACKBIRD2 is offline
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How to remove head?

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okay i taped around the head with a small hammer,,i also put spark plugs in and rolled the motor over,,,more than once to try and break the head free,,any advice to remove the head with out screwing up the block?
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Old 05-18-2017, 08:54 AM
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very carefully!!!

This is a slow and methodical process at this point. You need to break the "seal" of the gasket to one side of its mating surfaces (the head or block), and also any corrosion that has 'glued' the head to a stud. At this stage, most people use a small wedge of some sort..like a spreader or paint scraper and slowly work their way around the slot to try and create some separation. As you said, the goal here is to not score either surface. If it were me, I'd try to get the scraper into the middle of the gasket.

There will be lots of others coming along to provide their personal tips and tricks.
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  #3   IP: 98.171.161.182
Old 05-18-2017, 10:07 AM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sastanley View Post
very carefully!!!
, and also any corrosion that has 'glued' the head to a stud.
I've never removed a head so this is for what it is worth.
Some remove the studs before trying to remove the head for this reason.
If I recall correctly water was leaking around a stud?
You may be in for a battle. Load for bear.

TRUE GRIT
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Old 05-18-2017, 11:01 AM
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Good advice from both. My experience was with the studs in place, got it moving with a putty knife and soft wood wedges evenly all around the head. It didn't move very far like maybe ˝" before it was obvious there were two studs stopping it, the two thermostat studs. Out came the Sawzall and it made quick work of the offending studs freeing the head. It left enough of a stump to extract the two cut off studs with vise grips and a torch.
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Old 05-18-2017, 11:43 AM
azazzera azazzera is offline
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I have removed a head once. The only advice I would give would be to be patient and whatever you use as a wedge or prying tool make sure it's softer than the material your working on. Even a metal putty knife can chip and gouge. I think the best number one piece of advice is patients. Good luck. Have fun.
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Old 05-18-2017, 11:52 AM
Marty Levenson Marty Levenson is offline
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hammer

I sympathize: been there. Your engine access looks great, so I believe you'll succeed.

One tactic I found helpful was banging on the bottom of the thermostat housing to help get her started....

I would also mark alignment carefully and remove the distributor. Be sure to plug or cover the opening.
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Last edited by Marty Levenson; 05-18-2017 at 11:55 AM. Reason: added info
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Old 05-18-2017, 12:02 PM
cfergu22 cfergu22 is offline
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I had to remove mine last year. Some tips I could give...

I did not remove the studs. Spray PB Blaster or your choice of penetrating oil on each stud to try to get it to go down the holes. I did this over multiple days as the studs were corroded to the head, specifically the thermostat studs.

Start with a Putty Knife then work your way to a screw driver.

Use wood shims to help keep the head up once you start to get movement.

Trim the tips of the wood shims so they don't go deep into the block and hit the valves

Pry only from the back and front of the Head and try to keep it even.

Keep the shims in the center of the front and back of the head so you aren't to close to the valves.

Do not use to much force, before I found that the studs were corroded to the head I put to much force under the thermostat housing area of the head and actually broke the bottom of the head. The area under the thermostat on my head was very thin, maybe from years of corrosion. I tried to pry it from the side and the screw driver popped right up through the head. A 300 dollar mistake.

Once the stud/head corrosion broke free the head came off very easily.

Good Luck. Knowing what I know now, the process isn't as daunting as I thought it would be.
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  #8   IP: 98.171.161.182
Old 05-18-2017, 02:30 PM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cfergu22 View Post
I did not remove the studs. Spray PB Blaster or your choice of penetrating oil on each stud to try to get it to go down the holes. I did this over multiple days as the studs were corroded to the head, specifically the thermostat studs.
.
Leave a nut on the end of the studs. After you spray the penetrating goop tap on the nuts with a hammer.

TRUE GRIT
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Old 05-18-2017, 02:50 PM
Dave Neptune Dave Neptune is online now
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A possible quick way is to install the plugs~NO WIRES~ and give her a few cranks. Sometimes the compression will break a head loose.

Otherwise a this as rigid as p0ossibe putty knife/scraper works best.

Dave Neptune
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  #10   IP: 98.171.161.182
Old 05-18-2017, 08:16 PM
JOHN COOKSON JOHN COOKSON is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave Neptune View Post
A possible quick way is to install the plugs~NO WIRES~ and give her a few cranks. Sometimes the compression will break a head loose.
Dave Neptune
He said he tried this in post #1 and it didn't break the head loose.
If he removes the studs maybe try again.

TRUE GRIT
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  #11   IP: 97.32.71.34
Old 05-18-2017, 08:28 PM
Ken Rockwell Ken Rockwell is offline
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You'll see four indents, two in the front and two in the rear. Flat screwdriver and a hammer. It's the same on all engine's, not just these. The play in the studs is almost zero, so just smack the top down after you pull the screwdriver out(rubber mallet). Don't pry. just drive it in and pull it out. You can see in the picture, that the indents are on the strongest part of the head, clear of any cooling ports.
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Old 05-19-2017, 12:45 AM
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I use lots of wood. Slim wood wedges. Use wood at an angle against the head, hit with hammer. I split plenty of 2 X 4s.


The bolts at the thermostat tend to hang the head up. I remove them. Lots of lube on the studs.
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  #13   IP: 107.72.162.134
Old 05-19-2017, 06:10 AM
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Thanks

To Ken,,, and everyone Thanks for the support,im also doing my impeller,in the oberdorer,,and replacing my throttle cable,,The throttle cable is a pain in the A**..
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