Excess Fuel?

[sandiegomike]

Dave - thanks

Dave, I will keep that in mind, thank you. I have set the float to 1 5/32 from the housing (without gasket) to the top of the float. This is pretty much dead nuts parallel. Will let you know how it goes.

[sandiegomike]

Question - float valve needle

By the way, how far should the float valve needle drop down when the float is at its lowest point to allow fuel in?

[JOHN COOKSON]

By the way, how far should the float valve needle drop down when the float is at its lowest point to allow fuel in?

It's more like metering. The float should drop enough to supply the engine with the correct amount of gas at a given RPM. This is why the float drop setting is critical to get right. Low fuel pressure can goof this up. Do you have a fuel pressure gauge between fuel pump and carb?

TRUE GRIT

[sandiegomike]

Pressure gauge

Hi John, no pressure gauge yet. What pressure do you guys typically run at?

[roadnsky]

What pressure do you guys typically run at?

Typical pressure is 2-3 PSI

[sandiegomike]

Saga continues

Ok, Bajahaha Jim and I worked on the A4. Still will not start.
1) We now have compression on all cylinders.
2) we have spark
3) we are timed (static)
4) we have fuel into the cylinders
5) we no longer have excess fuel with the float adjustment

We are really not getting any firing at all....

Jim is thinking the carb is messed up and the fuel/air ratio is off?
Any thoughts?

[roadnsky]

What are the compression numbers?

How did you verify fuel delivery?

[ndutton]

Mike (& Jim),
If conditions 1 through 4 are true the engine will run or at least pop & cough. That yours does not says something you think is good is not. The question then is what. Roadnsky Jerry has a few questions to that end as do I.

How did you static time? How did you determine TDC?

[Dave Neptune]

Mike, if you have compression, spark and fuel it should run unless the timing is way off and or the rotor is missing.

Do double check the TDC position and check the firing order again. It is easy to be 180 degrees off or even have the wires backwards on the cap.

Dave Neptune

[romantic comedy]

if you still doubt fuel, then squirt some starting fluid in the carb.

It will at least make some noise and probably start if the other things are right

[JOHN COOKSON]

Jim is thinking the carb is messed up and the fuel/air ratio is off?
Any thoughts?

A couple.
Verify once again that the choke is all the way closed all the way when you think it is. See if you can get the engine to pop when you use starting fluid.

TRUE RIT

[sandiegomike]

Answers & Comments

Static timing - Used a light meter to the negative coil and then to ground. Adjusted timing by rotating the distributor to on/off light. This showed the rotor about 90 degrees to the motor.

Checked fuel - 1st time by removing carb - fuel in there, so good. Dried plugs, cranked engine numerous times and plugs were wet. Also burned off gas from spark plug hole.

How does timing get 180 degrees out? Cap only goes on one way and we did not remove the distributor. Cap is in the same position as it has always has been for the last 10 years.

No firing using starting fluid. Should have mentioned that in the original post.

I did not write compression down, but it was betewwn 70-90 on all cylinders.

We have spark - cables are new and plugs are new. Cap and rotor are new and even bought a new coil.

Carb screw is seated and backed out 1.5 turns (It has also been backed out 1 turn and 2 turns.

Roadnsky, thanks for the check list. I will review and print and take with me tonight or tomorrow night.

Thanks all, I really appreciate all the help. Please comment if you can concerning timing being out 180 degrees. Is this possibly if we did not remove the distributor?

[JOHN COOKSON]

Static timing - Used a light meter to the negative coil and then to ground. Adjusted timing by rotating the distributor to on/off light. This showed the rotor about 90 degrees to the motor.

"90 degrees to the motor" when viewed from the flywheel end of the engine or 90 degrees to the motor when viewed from the transmission end of the engine?

TRUE GRIT

Edit: Turn the engine until #1 piston is at TDC compression. It is easier to turn the engine if you remove or loosen the spark plugs enough to break the compression. While #1 is parked at TDC compression remove the distributor cap and see if the rotor is pointing to the terminal that you have the spark plug wire to #1 cylinder inserted into.
Betcha you are 90 degrees or 180 degrees off.

[romantic comedy]

pistons 1 and four come to the top at the same time. Same for 2 and 3.

So I would try swapping plug wires for 1 and 4.
do the same for 2 and 3...

I can hear zoom now.

This is because you are timed 180 off. Take the wire for 1 and put it in the dist cap where the wire for 4 is now. Put number 4 wire where number 1 wire was. do the same for 2 and three.

[sandiegomike]

"90 degrees to the motor" when viewed from the flywheel end of the engine or 90 degrees to the motor when viewed from the transmission end of the engine?

TRUE GRIT

Edit: Turn the engine until #1 piston is at TDC compression. It is easier to turn the engine if you remove or loosen the spark plugs enough to break the compression. While #1 is parked at TDC compression remove the distributor cap and see if the rotor is pointing to the terminal that you have the spark plug wire to #1 cylinder inserted into.
Betcha you are 90 degrees or 180 degrees off.

Both you guys are great - thanks. I knew when I posted that last one I should have been more clear. When I am at TDC and standing facing the flywheel looking toward the back the distributor is on the left and the rotor is pointing left. (90 degrees)