Engine not running under load solved - but now there is some kind of knock

[Elizabeth_B29]

Shaft alignment affect knock?

Hello All,
Just curious, thinking about the crank and the fact that the shaft is coupled to the crank. Thinking about the big picture which brings this variable into focus.

My alignment was one thousandth off, but I do have a Drive Saver installed to isolate the galvanic and also pick up my alignment slack....could this cause problems?

I am directly mounted to fiberglass rails and used shims to align Up and down with wrecking bars to slide the engine around while sitting behind it. I really want to have real engine mounts next time I do this.

My shaft was deemed straight by a machine shop but I could never get the alignment right on after trying three days. So I put on the drive saver.

The stuffing box is a new Buck and the cutlass was/is new. Packing is a little too tight so I will repack.

Should I uncouple the shaft? I have this not so funny thought that alignment may have "settled" after being in the water and having the rigging tuned, so if I uncouple it will sproing out of control. ..well not really that bad.

Happy Sunday!


Elizabeth
E_B29 missing her bearings
IS it North ohhhh quite possibly SOUTH!

[joe_db]

15W40 oil is IMHO great for an A4 in a hot climate, but if it helps a bearing knock this is only a temporary fix. Apparently some A4s have run a long time with terrible bearing knock, so maybe a long temporary but still..........

Elizabeth - You have probably not heard me say this so I'll do it again; there is absolutely no substitute for a strobe timing light to ensure that your initial timing is set correctly and to ensure that your centrifugal advance is functioning on specification. They are cheap and readily available at your local boutique. As for the oil change, here is a suggestion; try using 15w-40 heavy oil (usually used in diesels). It just might quiet that knock.

[Dave Neptune]

Shaft engine knock = no.

Elizabeth, your shaft at .001 is fine and should not even be a factor. If your knock was only in gear we may look to the shaft but I doubt it in this case. IE don't worry about the shaft at all! Besides if it were the shaft how could pulling one plug wire cause it to knock~yer a reaching for straws on this me thinks.
Try the rocking the crank with a feeler on the piston. At TDC just a tiny bit more clearance especially enough to knock will make a big difference in rocking the crank back an forth. I'm only talking a few degrees of rotation back and forth here. If it take a bit more motion to get the bad cylinders piston to move than the good one problem found and time to fix! You can probably use a fixed wrench on the nut holding the pump pulley on. Or even grabbing the flywheel if the cover is open. The crank will easily rock until it starts to move the pistons and it is that gap between that is the concern between the good and the bad.

Dave Neptune