A4 transmission stuck in Forward

[Dave Neptune]

If the clevis pin is stuck you might cut it in half between the jaws and remove it that way. The end you beat on is probably mushroomed. A new pin is an easy acquisition.

Dave Neptune

[joe_db]

Do nothing else until you get the cable off of it, you may fix something that isn't broken otherwise.

[Sam]

A couple years back I took off my reversing gear cover for a possible adjustment after 20yrs being trouble free. As lubricated as everything looked the set screw was surprisingly well stuck and could not be removed with just a large screwdriver. It took a couple of days of PB Blaster and a light tap of an impact wrench to safely dislodge it. You may find the same.

[Robs Hubris]

If the clevis pin is stuck you might cut it in half between the jaws and remove it that way. The end you beat on is probably mushroomed. A new pin is an easy acquisition.

Dave Neptune

I wonder if a metal hacksaw blade would go through that thing very easily or would I need a more substantial tool?

I thought the dremel suggestion might work, but I'll have to see if I have grinding tips that would be effective there.

[Robs Hubris]

Do nothing else until you get the cable off of it, you may fix something that isn't broken otherwise.

By the way Joe, off topic, I spent 25 years racing CC35 Mark I one designs here in Michigan. Love that boat to death, quirks and all.

[joe_db]

THANKS

[Robs Hubris]

An update. Finally got to the boat and not much success.

I was able to turn the shaft (by spinning the prop). Trans guts look fine, other than being stuck in first.

However, I could not get the bolt holding the shift linkage out. Dremel seemed to work well, but there's very little clearance under the bolt and the angle there was not ideal. I then used some steel files to get under the bolt and smooth it off as much as I could.

Looked good but would not budge. I also worked with channel locks and pliars on the other end of the bolt but I can't get it to spin at all, seems stuck hard in there. I did PB Blaster it a bit and a drop or two of oil, but no luck.

There's insufficient clearance to use a manual hacksaw in there so not an option.

The only next step I can think of is to use a reciprocating/sawzall on it to cut the bolt. This one (below) is $40 on "you know where" and I have Dewalt batteries that fit. It includes a metal cutting blade. The clearance between the linkage arms is really tight, but I'm guessing I can force this in there.

Many thanks for your thoughts.

Cordless Reciprocating Saw, Electric Saw compatible with Dewalt 18V Battery，0-3200SPM Variable Speed, 2 Saw Blades, Power Reciprocating Saws for Wood/Metal/PVC Cutting（Battery not include）

[Dave Neptune]

Not sure why I did not think of this before. It may be easier to remove the lever from the trans. It is held in place with a single screw. If you can get it loose and have enough room to remove the handle at least then you should be able to move it in a better position to work and or drive the pin out.

Also backing off the adjusting collar should release any resistance the "detent and pawls" are creating.

If there is no motion at all on the shifter handle at the trans it may be rusted in place and require a big series of bumps to break it loose.

Dave Neptune

[joe_db]

Try this:
Undo the clamp that holds the cable at the engine end. Undo the cable from the shift lever and clamp at the other end.
Now it is free to move, the entire cable will get dragged back and forth.
If you can shift, you need a new cable.
If not, fix the tranny.

[Robs Hubris]

Thanks for the ideas ... I'll make another run at it this week. The warmer weather should also prevent my hands from freezing!

[sastanley]

Rob, On my C-30, the 'clamp' for the shift cable was right there on the floor at the bottom of the stairs where the stuffing box access hatch is located. Agree with all other suggestions to get the cable off the trans as I suspect the motor is fine and the cable is no good. Have you access to any of these suckers for Dremel to cut that pin? They don't always last long, but a package is cheap. This is my go to with my Dremel and tight spaces and needing a cut-off wheel.