I think I give up.

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  • hsagman
    Frequent Contributor
    • Oct 2014
    • 9

    I think I give up.

    Here's the history:

    Engine running fine. Then one day it stalled while running from my mooring to the dock but started right up again. I continued to the dock. Would not start again. Sailed back to the mooring.

    Checked for spark; check.
    Checked for fuel to the carburetor; check.

    So, I bought the Moyer carburetor kit and rebuilt the carb.

    Engine started, but stalls when I give it gas. I very slowly increased the gas until I got a high rpm and it held. But, when I took her for a test ride, I was not getting full power. Finally it quit again. She starts, but won't take acceleration. Feels like its running on less then the 4.

    So any advice is appreciated, but what I really want to know is; does anyone know a good Atomic 4 mechanic in the Norwalk Harbor/ Five Mile River area?
  • zellerj
    Afourian MVP
    • May 2005
    • 306

    #2
    Time for a tune up

    The spark check is subjective. Needs a strong blue spark. I would put in four new spark plugs, new points if you have points. New distributor cap, new rotor, new capacitor if you have one. Change the spark plug wires and coil wire.

    Check to make sure your choke is operating properly - fully opened and fully closed when it is suppose to be. A running but choked engine will foul the plugs and cause hard starting.

    Cheaper than a mechanic and easy to do. Might do the trick.

    Jim
    Jim Zeller
    1982 Catalina 30
    Kelleys Island, Ohio

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    • Mo
      Afourian MVP
      • Jun 2007
      • 4519

      #3
      Time for compression test.

      Compression check with gauge in order from here. No sense doing anything else unless you have that done. Fouled prop could also cause this but this year I had about 10 lbs of plastic cover on my prop, it stayed running in gear but put a prop wash out port and stb.

      So, do the compression test (don't use your thumb) and see what you have. Stuck valves cause EXACTLY what you describe. Once the compression test confirms compression then look to the electrical because you can change allot of parts out and still be in the same position. Jim's post is good idea, no doubt, but you need to know what your actual compression is.
      Last edited by Mo; 07-02-2015, 06:13 PM.
      Mo

      "Odyssey"
      1976 C&C 30 MKI

      The pessimist complains about the wind.
      The optimist expects it to change.
      The realist adjusts the sails.
      ...Sir William Arthur Ward.

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      • JOHN COOKSON
        Afourian MVP, Professor Emeritus
        • Nov 2008
        • 3501

        #4
        It's rather strange but too rich and too lean will produce the same symptoms.
        Next time you get the lack of power try closing the choke a bit and see if the situation improves. Then report back.
        Sounds to me like you are not getting enough fuel to the carb i.e. weak fuel pump or blockage in the tank or in a filter. (This assumes it is a fuel problem)

        TRUE GRIT

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        • JOHN COOKSON
          Afourian MVP, Professor Emeritus
          • Nov 2008
          • 3501

          #5
          I like Mo's idea also.
          Let's be sure it is the engine, not a fouled prop, or the stuffing box too tight before you call a mechanic. What is the drip rate through the packing gland and does it run at the same temp as the surrounding water?

          TRUE GRIT

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          • CalebD
            Afourian MVP
            • May 2007
            • 900

            #6
            So you rebuilt the carb and you are still having issues. That points towards a fuel problem. When was the last time your fuel tank was cleaned, or even drained? Using E10 fuel means there IS water and crud in your tank in some amount.
            It only takes a small amount of crud in the fuel to mess with the float valve and jets which can cause the engine to stall out.
            Tartan 27 #328 owner born 1958
            A4 and boat are from 1967

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