Cold water temps

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  • Ball Racing
    Afourian MVP
    • Jul 2011
    • 512

    Cold water temps

    I have been running without a thermostat since I launched last month.
    And,I just put the single action moyer thermostat, and spacer kit on my a-4 today.
    Out of gear, or even if slow cruising, it never leaves 100 degrees.
    that is the lowest number on my gauge.
    I can confirm this by placing my hand anywhere on the block and hardly feel warmth.
    The "only" way I can acheive any temp, is to go WOT for at least 5-7 minutes, then it will go to 120, then let off, and it goes right back to 100, then go again WOT 130 and the best I have pulled off is 140 after extended WOT.
    This is on the Cheseapeake bay, which is cooling off.
    But I never figured that it would still run ice cold cruising.
    I have the check valve, gate valve kit from moyer installed, and it is still raw water cooled.The valve is turned so there is no restriction going to the exhaust.
    Tyring to keep the Bay's Wooden Boat's history from dying off completely.
    Daniel
  • jpian0923
    Afourian MVP
    • Sep 2010
    • 994

    #2
    Exact same thing for me!

    I don't worry about it though. It's better than the opposite.
    "Jim"
    S/V "Ahoi"
    1967 Islander 29
    Harbor Island, San Diego
    2/7/67 A4 Engine Block date

    Comment

    • sastanley
      Afourian MVP
      • Sep 2008
      • 7030

      #3
      BR, Your passages are so clean there are no restrictions. Wait for a little Chesapeake sludge to get in there and the temps will go up.
      -Shawn
      "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109
      "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!)
      sigpic

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      • P30
        Senior Member
        • Aug 2011
        • 12

        #4
        Another thermostat / cooling question

        Geez, I always feel so guilty asking my basic questions when others on this forum seem to consider polishing their pistons to be a lazy afternoon well spent.

        Anyhow, went down to winterize my A4 yesterday. Started right up. The West Marine oil cannister pump recommended on here worked like a champ. Never had so much fun changing my oil.

        Found the T in the water inlet. Washing machine hose (thx again) was perfect and she eagerly slurped up a gallon of anti-freeze.

        THEN, I went to work on the thermostat housing. Several hours, 10 skinned knuckles and a can of liquid wrench later. I got her off. Just not sure what I am looking at. There is definitely no thermostat in there, although all the accumulated sludge may verw well have been one at some time. Soaked it overnight in vinegar/water and have been scraping away this AM. I only saw 1 thermostat before in my life and nothing that size would ever fit into this housing, even with the sludge removed.

        Here is what has me confused, though. The thermostat does connect to the small hose running over to the manifold. But the other end (marked W/P ... Water Pump, I figure) has a threaded plug in it!

        Granted, my temp gauge has not worked since I bought her but there has never been any indication of her being hot (never any steam, and she didn't feel excessively hot even after 8 hours of motoring on a windless 100 degree day (although I sure did).

        I am an hour away from the boat or I'd say something about where the water pump hose is connected now - I sure am curious.

        My immediate concern is where should I add the anti-freeze to best winterize her?

        And unrelated. My serial number is 196377. Was she the 77th engine built in 1963?

        Thanks all.

        Comment

        • Dave Neptune
          Afourian MVP, Professor Emeritus
          • Jan 2007
          • 5050

          #5
          hot warm cold spin rince

          P30, not good at all. What has been done os to eliminate the "bypass" line you hear mentioned. I have never used a t'stat on my A-4 and that's now going on 27 years. DO NOT install a t'stat unless the "bypass" is hooked up and functional. The KRAP you see in the housing is just KRAP that builds up over time. Sounds to me like it is time to give her a flushing with vinegar or better yet an acid wash. As there is so much corrosion I would check the diverter on the Tee fitting on the side of the block. If there is just an "elbow" going in definately change it. The diverter is NECESSARY to get the cooling water going in the right direction. I have seen engines that run hot but show cold because the water just goes in the side and out the top (t'stat) which can keep the sending unit chilled while the back of the block is actually quite warm.

          Ball Racing, what temp are the waters you are running in? If the water is cold you may want to go to a smaller profile shoe in the pump to decrease the volume being pumped. There are a few available. Perhaps Russ may chime in from Alaska with some advise. Perhaps the t''stat you are using is not seated well as it should restrict most of the water flow allowing the engine to warm while the excess is being "bypassed".

          Dave Neptune

          Comment

          • smosher
            Afourian MVP
            • Jun 2006
            • 489

            #6
            P30, I do not have a thermostat, I have a bypass valve. With the valve closed the front of my engine is between 100 - 110, the back 130 - 140, If I open the valve 1/4, the temp goes up another 10 - degrees. This is how I run it and my plugs look clean.

            Steve

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