anti mechanic

[roadnsky]

We found the timing light gave us an initial setting, but still had to fine tune the distributor rotation to get good starting and running. Make sense?

Rigs-
I didn't want to throw too much out there at once.
Using the simple "timing" bulb gets him the basic timing.

I figured once it gets running then we'd walk thru the finer points (pun intended) of getting her running purrfect...

[gas money]

i was way off on my timing. but still wasnt able to get it going. i did flood all of the cylinders at least all are flooded instead of just 2. what would the water intake have to do with it starting? but yes i have had that open all along.

[roadnsky]

what would the water intake have to do with it starting? but yes i have had that open all along.

Gas-
When the engine won't start within a few cranks you should close off the water intake to avoid backfilling into the engine.
The most common way for water to get into the cylinders of an A4 is for the cooling water to back up within the exhaust system by over-cranking the engine with the raw water through-hull open.
Without the engine running and producing exhaust pressure to move the cooling water out through the exhaust system, the water will continue to collect within the system until it reaches a level that enables it to flow back into the manifold.
From there, the water has a direct pathway back into the combustion chambers.

[roadnsky]

Gas-
After reading your initial post on this thread, I think Baltimore may have zeroed in on your biggest issue. You mentioned cyls 3 and 4 are wet.
If you've been cranking the engine a lot with the thru hull open, you've almost certainly got water in there.
Here's a quote from Don about water intrusion...

1) If water is discovered in combustion chambers, perform the following precautionary steps as soon as possible:

a. Close the raw water through-hull valve.

b. Remove all spark plugs and squirt lots (5 or 6 squirts) of Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO) in each cylinder to prevent pistons from seizing. Try to aim the MMO away from the manifold side of the engine, toward the cylinders.

c. Turn the engine over with the starter until most of the evidence of water is gone from the combustion chambers.

d. If water was seen to run out of the intake throat of the carburetor, remove the main passage plug (the plug that you would remove to remove the main jet), and allow all the fuel and water to run out of the carburetor.

2) Dry (or replace) the spark plugs, and try to start the engine. If the engine starts, open the raw water through-hull.

3) If the engine starts and runs satisfactorily, check for water in the crankcase. If water is present, change the oil at least three times, running the engine just long enough between changes to mix up the water and oil, to maximize the amount of water that comes out with each oil change.

4) If engine will not start, or If the engine falters after opening the through-hull, and water is seen to be reentering the cylinders, shut off the engine, re-close the raw water through-hull and proceed to check the following (listed in order of likelihood of occurrence):

a. Perform a compression check. If weak compression is discovered in two adjacent cylinders, a failed head gasket is probably the cause of the water entering into one or more combustion chambers.

b. If compression is weak on only one cylinder, check to see if air can be heard to be escaping into the water jacket of the head during the compression check. A sound of escaping air during the compression check would indicate a small hole in the combustion chamber of the head.

NOTE: Removal of the thermostat housing would make it easier to hear a compression leak into the water jacket of the head.

c. Remove the hoses from both fittings on the manifold and blow into one fitting while holding a finger over the other. If the manifold will not hold air, a leak in the water jacket is indicated, and the manifold will have to be replaced.

d. If the head, head gasket, and manifold appear sound, a crack in the cooling jacket of the block, would be suspect. In this case, it will be necessary to pressure check the block. The easiest way to pressure test the block (without removing the head) is to first plug the outlet of the thermostat housing. Then remove the hose from the outlet of the water pump, and install a Schrader valve in the end of the hose, so that a standard bicycle tire pump with a built in pressure gauge can be used for the test. A Schrader valve is the standard valve used on automobiles, and they are available at any auto parts store. The block should be able to hold 20 psi for an hour or more without a noticeable drop in pressure.

NOTE: It would be preferable to remove the manifold for the above pressure test so that the valve ports can be inspected during the test.

e. If pressure decays rapidly, look for water leaking out though one or more exhaust or intake ports. If water is leaking from an intake or exhaust port, it may be impossible to see exactly where the water is originating , but a defective block would definitely be indicated and the block would have be removed from the engine and taken to a machine shop for evaluation.

Hope this helps. Let us know what you find...

[gas money]

i got a mechanic to come by and check it some things. turns out the machine shop didnt tighten up the nuts to keep the valves set correctly. my mechanic is doing everything pro bono but since it is tougher to work on in the boat i have to take it out again. i will let you know what else he finds. thanks

[gas money]

i was getting a little bit of carbon into the carb. i actually didnt know what it was. but we took the carb off and the mechanic put his hand over the intake. he claimed it felt like we were getting some back pressure from the intake. which would explain what i was getting in the carb. that is when we checked the valves. two were out of adjustment. we were able to set them while the engine was still in place but it still didnt fire up. since it is about an hour from his shop to the boat it was just easier to take the engine to him. i got it out in about 3 hours.

[gas money]

well we got it to fire up on the bench. turns out the machine shop set the valve timing wrong.

[gas money]

well it has been a while since i posted. my last post was that the engine started on the bench. i was smiling all the way to the lake. then it wouldnt start again. so i checked the gas, plugs all of the usual suspects. so i took the motor out again and took it back to the machine shop. they promptly informed me that i didnt know what i was doing and i had a bunch of yahoos helping me out. turns out they were right. we didnt check the exhaust which was full of rust.

[sastanley]

gas money...yahoo's are always friendly..., but, hopefully you didn't waste too much money on beer.

Where are we now?...what is the engine status?...what can we do to help you with the next step?

Rust in the exhaust? fill us in on the details..do you have any pictures? I replaced my entire exhaust (minus the muffler) last year..we'll help you out...keep feeding us info.