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I assume, that just like my car, that it should be able to heat up to operating temperature at idle, right? After reading about the 'flow restrictor' in the FAQ, I wnet ahead and restored the lead in my thermostat inlet, but I drilled it out to 7/32 (quite a bit more than the suggested 1/8), since I didn't want to force a mandatory engine flush or other overheat problem, at least not now.
Anyway, my thermostat tested good (although I suppose the spring could be tired), I reinstalled, and the temp would nudge the needle, but wouldn't get on the scale (100deg). The block was not too hot to keep your hand on, even after 20 minutes of idling and a little bit of motoring against the dock lines.
Our seawater is right at 50deg.
I guess I can remove the lead completely and see what happens. I'll eventually get the check valve kit, but not until there's a good chance it has something to do with the problem.
I can manually open the thermostat with my fingers - I don't think the one in my car has that "light" a spring...
Anyway, my thermostat tested good (although I suppose the spring could be tired), I reinstalled, and the temp would nudge the needle, but wouldn't get on the scale (100deg). The block was not too hot to keep your hand on, even after 20 minutes of idling and a little bit of motoring against the dock lines.
Our seawater is right at 50deg.
I guess I can remove the lead completely and see what happens. I'll eventually get the check valve kit, but not until there's a good chance it has something to do with the problem.
I can manually open the thermostat with my fingers - I don't think the one in my car has that "light" a spring...
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