Distributor cap or rotor issue

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  • joeamelia
    Senior Member
    • Aug 2007
    • 28

    Distributor cap or rotor issue

    Hi there,

    What a surprise I had today with my wonderful little atomic 4. After getting pumped out at the fuel dock, I was about to move into my slip for the night, and it wouldn't start.
    After making sure it was getting fuel, I checked for spark, and was only getting a little orange trickle out of each plug, not the ice blue spark I usually get, and I knew all the plugs were new, so I started a methodical search to see where the issue was. Checking each wire with a new plug, one of them gave me a blue spark, so I changed all the plugs again, and still only got blue spark in one of them.
    Now if one had blue spark, everything must be working except the distributor cap and / or rotor, I figured. I called Don Moyer to get the part numbers of these, and he gave me the part numbers of a Blue Streak replacement, which the parts department here tried to get to no avail. MB suggested I try the old one from the distributor I replaced when I went electronic ignition (I just replaced the whole distributor). I could have kissed her (in fact I think I did), I never would have brought it. I replaced both the cap and rotor with the old one, and it started right up! I ordered a new rotor and can pick it up in the morning, and will have to find a cap and order it enroute before Carrabelle.

    There have been two items happening that forewarned of this, but I put it down to something else.
    1. The motor has been taking longer to start than usual, and 2. When it starts it runs a little rough, then after warming up smooths out and runs like its old great self.
    It sounded like air was getting into the carb, so I figured to tighted up the carb and give it a cleaning in St. Pete. Now I don't think I'll have to.

    When I looked at the cap and rotor, they look pitted and worn at the rotor tip, and on all four points of the distributor cap. That means nothing to me, but is probably worthy of note to tell me the coil is going or other some such thing I will learn the hard way..........................


    I have attached pics of the distributor cap and rotor button, I wonder if anyone can tell from the corrosion if its just worn, or if something is causing it. The rotor button has been scraped clean, so its hard to see.

    thanks Don!! You are an invaluable resource.
    Attached Files
    Joe Amelia
    S/V "Pot 'O' Gold"
    potogold.wordpress.com
  • jhwelch
    Senior Member
    • Dec 2005
    • 476

    #2
    Twice I had the running poorly until warmed up issue and replacing the
    cap solved it.

    The NAPA part number is RR181 for a cap.

    Comment

    • rigspelt
      Afourian MVP
      • May 2008
      • 1186

      #3
      Originally posted by joeamelia View Post
      When I looked at the cap and rotor, they look pitted and worn at the rotor tip, and on all four points of the distributor cap. That means nothing to me, but is probably worthy of note to tell me the coil is going or other some such thing I will learn the hard way ... I have attached pics of the distributor cap and rotor button, I wonder if anyone can tell from the corrosion if its just worn, or if something is causing it.
      About how many hours/miles were there on that cap and rotor when the problem developed?
      1974 C&C 27

      Comment

      • Mark S
        Senior Member
        • Sep 2008
        • 421

        #4
        It's hard for me to tell from the pictures but they appear to show ordinary wear and tear for a cap and rotor. Rigsy asks the right question. If they haven't been in service long, they are degrading too fast. But if this is how they look after a season's use I don't think I'd worry. But have some spares around just in case.

        Mark

        Comment

        • joeamelia
          Senior Member
          • Aug 2007
          • 28

          #5
          hours

          It has been in service 2 years, and around 4,000 miles.
          The used one I put in only lasted about a mile after I started running. A new one will be in tomorrow, will see if that fixes it.

          Larger problems appear looming. We're hoping its nothing.

          Water was in the crankcase and in cylinder number 1. Maybe it was because I was cranking so long? I didn't think water could back up with my exhaust system. Should know tomorrow.
          Joe Amelia
          S/V "Pot 'O' Gold"
          potogold.wordpress.com

          Comment

          • lat 64
            Afourian MVP
            • Oct 2008
            • 1964

            #6
            wires?

            Hi guys,
            I have to chime in here.
            I dont' see that you ruled out the coil or wires. You said …“so I changed all the plugs again, and still only got blue spark in one of them.”
            This tells me right off that it’s not the plugs. Check the plug wires and high-tension coil wire.
            If you have a bad (intermitant) spark from a bad coil wire, it can get "fixed" temporarily by just wiggling a connection and you might have done this when you replaced plugs.
            Also, I think a bad coil is something that can change with temperature. It can work for a while and then not work. Since the problem is back, I think you should look upstream*.
            I recently fixed my car with a $5 rotor after beating my head against the wall for two weeks. But in your case, I highly suspect something other than cap, rotor, or plugs.

            Russ
            P.S. Don's video on ignition is pretty good!
            *I mean to say, upstream of the plugs and downstream of the rotor.
            Last edited by lat 64; 11-25-2008, 01:28 PM. Reason: upstream
            sigpic Whiskeyjack a '68 Columbia 36 rebuilt A-4 with 2:1

            "Since when is napping doing nothing?"

            Comment

            • sastanley
              Afourian MVP
              • Sep 2008
              • 6986

              #7
              seconded

              I noticed when I went to replace the plugs this fall after I acquired my boat that the high tension wire to the coil was not attached to the lug/socket anymore, and the rubber boot was just kinda holding it nearby. I replaced the plug wires as well, but the engine still ran.

              I have not cracked the dizzy or anything yet, but it is on the agenda for this winter. If I have 'extra' money, I may upgrade to electronic ignition, but at this current time the engine seems to run OK with the points. I have to prioritize a little bit.
              -Shawn
              "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109
              "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!)
              sigpic

              Comment

              • joeamelia
                Senior Member
                • Aug 2007
                • 28

                #8
                it wasn't the coil, wires, or plugs

                Turns out the whole issue was the head gasket, water was getting into the plugs and playing havoc with everything.

                I believe its all fixed now, thanks for everything!

                Joe
                Joe Amelia
                S/V "Pot 'O' Gold"
                potogold.wordpress.com

                Comment

                • lat 64
                  Afourian MVP
                  • Oct 2008
                  • 1964

                  #9
                  the big picture

                  Good job Joe,
                  After reading your last entry, I went back and read your first posting. It all makes much more sense now. Can you detail the way you diagnosed it finally?
                  This could help guys like me that are so sure we're on the right track that we forget about all the other ways an engine can fail.

                  Russ
                  sigpic Whiskeyjack a '68 Columbia 36 rebuilt A-4 with 2:1

                  "Since when is napping doing nothing?"

                  Comment

                  • rigspelt
                    Afourian MVP
                    • May 2008
                    • 1186

                    #10
                    Originally posted by lat 64 View Post
                    Good job Joe, After reading your last entry, I went back and read your first posting. It all makes much more sense now. Can you detail the way you diagnosed it finally? This could help guys like me that are so sure we're on the right track that we forget about all the other ways an engine can fail. Russ
                    The other half of Joe's story is here: http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2909
                    1974 C&C 27

                    Comment

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