what is this under the cap?

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  • romantic comedy
    Afourian MVP
    • May 2007
    • 1943

    what is this under the cap?

    Today I got out that old Atomic Four that I got about two years ago. The guy said "take it out and it is yours". So I did, and it is.

    I was in the process of making a little bench dedicated to rebuilding the engine. Or at least taking it apart. Then I was thinking, as I do on occasion, "why not see if it runs?"

    That is what I did. I was checking the engine out putting stuff back on, like the starter and coil. Then I figured I might as well check the points. Off goes the cap and ......what the hell is that thing under there? Looks like electronic ignition? There it is!! Looks like I have a pertronix EI.

    I have included a couple of pictures. Can any one tell me if this is what Don sells. What do I need to know? Can anyone give me a copy of the info that comes with it? I figured out how it worked and got the engine running, so it works. Pretty simple.

    The numbers on the rotor are:
    11463A 1173A 11453A

    the pick up has a sticker on top that says:
    40AB-V4
    there is a sticker on the side of the pick up (square thing) that reads:
    ignitor by pertronix
    CARB E. O. D-572

    BTW I will write another post about running the engine....

    Looks like I cant avoid electronic ignition any more.....
    Attached Files
  • Mo
    Afourian MVP
    • Jun 2007
    • 4519

    #2
    Yes Sir, looks like you have EI. Just a note ... might I suggest you remove the plate there and lubricate the springs beneath for your advance.
    Mo

    "Odyssey"
    1976 C&C 30 MKI

    The pessimist complains about the wind.
    The optimist expects it to change.
    The realist adjusts the sails.
    ...Sir William Arthur Ward.

    Comment

    • sastanley
      Afourian MVP
      • Sep 2008
      • 7030

      #3
      OOOoooo, nice ignitor unit..yes, Moyer sells this in various fashions with their various EI offerings.

      +1 what Mo said..When you have an EI installed and do not have to remove the plate on occasion to replace the points, it is easy to forget the springs and advance weights underneath..I think that little brown felt piece in the middle of the shaft (it is not navel lint!!) is supposed to help lube all the those underneath parts, but it is not a catch-all. I did not check on my weights for several years after EI, and they were stuck and giving me hassle this past summer. The engine ran MUCH better (like at anything below 1,800 RPM) after I cleaned and oiled those suckers!!
      -Shawn
      "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109
      "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!)
      sigpic

      Comment

      • romantic comedy
        Afourian MVP
        • May 2007
        • 1943

        #4
        I am probably going to take the engine apart and rebuild it. Not sure yet.

        Those weights do need some oil, I am sure.

        Question about timing. I am sure I can use a timing light, but is there a way to time statically?

        Comment

        • Whippet
          Afourian MVP
          • May 2012
          • 280

          #5
          Timing

          regarding timing statically, here is a prior post from Don

          ...you'll have to check for proper timing of the engine. In this case, continue with steps 5 through 7.

          5) Remove all spark plugs and rotate the engine in a counterclockwise direction until you begin to feel compression in the first cylinder. Stop turning at the first sign of compression, and then continue to slowly rotate the engine while observing the roll pin in the center of the flywheel. Stop turning when the roll pin is vertical. The engine is now set with the first cylinder at Top Dead Center (TDC) of its compression stroke.

          6) Connect a 12 volt timing light across the primary terminals of the coil and rotate the housing of the distributor a small distance in each direction (with the ignition switch on) to locate the point where the light turns off. Retighten the hold-down bracket. This is the point in the engine rotation where the secondary discharge occurs which will be sent to the number one cylinder (at the flywheel end of the engine).

          NOTE: On late model engines, it's most convenient if the tip of the rotor is pointing directly away from the block at the TDC of the number one cylinder. In this orientation, there will be proper clearance between the distributor cap and the alternator belt. On early model engines, the tip of the rotor should be pointing aft when at number one TDC to insure good clearance between the belt and the retaining clips of the cap.
          Steve
          Etobicoke YC, C&C27
          A4 #204381, 1980

          Comment

          • romantic comedy
            Afourian MVP
            • May 2007
            • 1943

            #6
            Steve is that for electronic ignition too?

            Comment

            • JOHN COOKSON
              Afourian MVP, Professor Emeritus
              • Nov 2008
              • 3501

              #7
              Originally posted by romantic comedy View Post
              I figured out how it worked and got the engine running, so it works. Pretty simple.
              ...
              RC
              Do you want to power time or has the distributor been moved since the last run and you need to get it back to the correct location to get the engine started?
              As noted before you finalize the timing be sure the fly weights in the are free to move with almost zero friction and the springs are functioning correctly.

              TRUE GRIT

              Comment

              • Whippet
                Afourian MVP
                • May 2012
                • 280

                #8
                EI timing

                Originally posted by romantic comedy View Post
                Steve is that for electronic ignition too?

                Go to bottom of this thread and you will see Jerry response to my very same question... (answer being yes) - although i havent yet tried it. still below freezing here.

                Steve
                Etobicoke YC, C&C27
                A4 #204381, 1980

                Comment

                • romantic comedy
                  Afourian MVP
                  • May 2007
                  • 1943

                  #9
                  I was just curious as to how to adjust the timing with the EI. It is on this extra engine that I got running and will most likely rebuild.

                  I dont have instructions for the EI, but it seems simple enough.

                  I have done both static and dynamic timing many many times.

                  Comment

                  • sastanley
                    Afourian MVP
                    • Sep 2008
                    • 7030

                    #10
                    RC..when setting static timing on EI, I don't remember varying from Don's instructions..but I do understand the issue you face with the rotor not pointing at #1 and being able to recognize what the points are doing. I set mine so it looks like the Moyer instructions with the rotor in about the correct spot at TDC. If you have trouble starting it, I've had a friend come over and hold the key on "start" for me (if I don't have my remote trigger starter handy that Dave Neptune turned me onto), and then I loosen the dizzy clamp bolt enough to spin the distributor in either direction to adjust the timing and it usually fires right up and then we go from there.
                    Last edited by sastanley; 04-08-2016, 09:34 PM.
                    -Shawn
                    "Holiday" - '89 Alura 35 #109
                    "Twice Around" - '77 C-30, #511 with original A-4 & MMI manifold - SOLD! (no longer a two boat owner!!)
                    sigpic

                    Comment

                    • romantic comedy
                      Afourian MVP
                      • May 2007
                      • 1943

                      #11
                      I did basically nothing to the distributor. I had taken all the plug wires and coil off when I took it out of the boat.

                      I had cut the wires from the EI to the coil just as a matter of removing a junk engine. In the garage I figured out how it was hooked up, more or less. Then I hooked up a battery and coil. As I was hooking it up I got sparks. It was working!!!!

                      I just figured out when number one was at TDC and replaced the wires and rotor, hooked up a starter and checked for spark. It had spark.

                      I installed the carb from my boat, and cranked it up. It started right away. Amazing!!! I did nothing to the timing. I did not run it long as I had no cooling hooked up. It sounded a little bit retarded. I just need to hook u p a light and see, if I run it anymore.

                      I am just looking for references for the EI, in case I put it on my boat.

                      Comment

                      • roadnsky
                        Afourian MVP
                        • Dec 2008
                        • 3127

                        #12
                        Originally posted by romantic comedy View Post
                        I was just curious as to how to adjust the timing with the EI.
                        ...is that for electronic ignition too?
                        I am just looking for references for the EI, in case I put it on my boat.
                        As Steve said, static timing is the same for the EI as with points.

                        Also, your EI is the exact same one that I have. (From MMI)
                        See the first pic. Same label and numbers
                        the other pics show the insides
                        Attached Files
                        -Jerry

                        'Lone Ranger'
                        sigpic
                        1978 RANGER 30

                        Comment

                        • roadnsky
                          Afourian MVP
                          • Dec 2008
                          • 3127

                          #13
                          Originally posted by romantic comedy View Post
                          In the garage I figured out how it was hooked up, more or less. Then I hooked up a battery and coil. As I was hooking it up I got sparks. It was working!!!!
                          Oh yeah, BTW...
                          Don't leave the coil or EI powered up long without the engine running or you'll do them harm.
                          I know you probably already knew that.
                          It's more of a footnote for newbies that may read this string later.
                          -Jerry

                          'Lone Ranger'
                          sigpic
                          1978 RANGER 30

                          Comment

                          • Mo
                            Afourian MVP
                            • Jun 2007
                            • 4519

                            #14
                            Originally posted by roadnsky View Post
                            Oh yeah, BTW...
                            Don't leave the coil or EI powered up long without the engine running or you'll do them harm.
                            I know you probably already knew that.
                            It's more of a footnote for newbies that may read this string later.
                            Good point Gerry...it would be so easy to forget that little point.
                            Mo

                            "Odyssey"
                            1976 C&C 30 MKI

                            The pessimist complains about the wind.
                            The optimist expects it to change.
                            The realist adjusts the sails.
                            ...Sir William Arthur Ward.

                            Comment

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