C-30 electrical decisions - total re-wire

[sastanley]

As most everyone knows from my ramblings on the Moyer forum, one of my winter projects has been a re-wire of my '77 Catalina 30, hull #511. I don't seem to have the same free time as some of our West Coast friends , so this is an ongoing and "in stages" process for me. This winter specifically, I've been focusing on the 'big' part of the re-wire...replacing (& relocating) the electrical panel, as well as the batteries.

One common issue with older Catalina 30s..the boat lists to port.
The problem = too much furniture (& std eqiup.) on the port side of the boat!
One solution, move some stuff! (namely the batteries!) - this also means that I should go ahead and re-wire the 12v distribution system to the stbd side as well, near the batteries' new location. Moving the batteries from their original location accomplishes a few things for my boat. It opens up the engine room for oil filter kit, FWC (on the list), & a 2nd water tank under the port settee (on the list)

I am sure this discussion will evolve, but now it is time to get down to business, and here are the things I am wrestling with regarding this plan:
1. Do I keep a (create a new) spot in the engine compartment (closer to midships ) for a Gr24 start battery, so that I can keep the run short from starter to battery?
2. This could allow me to add a 2nd Gr27 house battery in the new battery area I've built to stbd.
3. Adding a 3rd dedicated start battery, also complicates the wiring significantly...the run to the starter is short, but there are still long runs required for the charging circuit (I have an isolator & batteries on potentially different sides of the boat!) - extra high amp switches could be required (expense, install hassle), etc.etc.
4. Even with a dedicated start battery, my S.O.P. would be to use the house circuit to start, and switch over if I had trouble (my power requirements are modest, especially since moving to mostly LED lighting.) I have never actually needed the start battery to start the A-4.
5. If #4 is the case, what is the point, and who cares where the battery is?
6. A buddy of mine highly recommended I run as few wires near the fuel tank (under the quarterberth) as possible. The STD C-30 wiring diagram on the newer boats with the electrical system to stbd from the factory has ALL of them routed that way..starting at the chart table on stbd settee, aft, around the corner of the cabin sole, & then distributed thru the boat on the port side. Is this a real concern? I only have 2 lights on the stbd side of the boat. Everything else is to port...including all my mast wiring which comes out to the port side of the compression post in the head.

OK..let's see how I did, and how many edits I'll need to make!

[Administrator]

Shawn:

I think I recall you being a racer, so I will run for cover after posting this, but have you considered installing ballast weights on the uphill side?

Bill

[ndutton]

OK Bill, take cover, INCOMING!!

Wouldn't a battery or two be far more useful than dead trim ballast? Or another water tank? Or another fuel tank? Or a 3 piece Paul Luke storm anchor?

Or in my case, a well stocked liquor locker? Or a well stocked guest (or is it stacked, spelling is such an art ) who brings her own beer and enough for the captain as well?

All stowed/installed to put the boat in proper trim of course.

[sastanley]

Well, there have been significant developments since this thread was started, so it is time for an update.

The re-wire has commenced. I've decided to stick with two batteries for now, but have made the battery storage area large enough for two Gr 27 batteries. I have modest electrical needs, the most demanding being a few gadgets to charge, a fresh water pump, & starting the engine.

One of these pictures serves as both plumbing & re-wire subjects (check out my cool new raw water strainer!), but I'll try to keep the topics separate to help with later archiving & subsequent searches. For FWC/cooling upgrades, see my working toward FWC thread.

This picture shows the new main power post & the small engine room positive side bus bar. It is currently powered by the ignition switch to get the motor running..not quite sure if that is the permanent solution or not. The objective here was to get away from stacking the coil with 5 or 6 wires per side. The pos & neg power post was probably a little overkill, as I turned out to only be splitting the ground (off to the negative bus, farther down in this post) and to the engine chassis, but it wasn't very expensive, and allows things to stay extremely modular for adding later, or if I decide to wire a dedicated starting battery in the engine room later, I have a large post where I can easily do so. & a place to mount a battery switch, etc.



The second pic is the inside of the chart table/electrical panel area. A Blue Sea main bus bar with cover & the battery charging isolator...A sailing buddy/elec. friend recommended to send the isolator to the back of the main battery switch, rather than extend to the batteries..nice clean & less wire runs! However, this did introduce a dedicated #4 run from the alternator to the isolator.

The 3rd pic is of the negative engine room bus (& oil filter off in the corner.) This will serve as the point to ground stuff, as things like water pumps (bilge pump just fwd of the engine) get added into the new wiring in the engine room..for now it is looking a little lonely. I also added a board to cut down on the screws & bolts thru the engine box..The front of the engine room was starting to look like it had been peppered with a gun that shoots stainless screws & finish washers

I'll add some more pics as I get things cleaned up and better organized.
Projects, projects!

[sastanley]

Here is a pic of the battery tray prior to anything being run down to it..eventually there will be two batteries here, with a single #4 run to each from the battery switch up in the chart table. In the future, I could add an additional battery if needed (extending the tray design), as there is lots of space after moving the water tank forward about 3 feet (just behind the camera.)

& a pic of the new panel!

[Al Schober]

Did a similar change about 12 years ago on my Tartan 30. Batteries were 2 of Gp27 with an A/B/Both/Off switch. Went to a Gp24 for start, and 2 of Gp27 for house. The only connection between the two was a combiner for charging. Originally the alternator fed the start battery then the combiner would close and charge the house bank. Changed so the house bank charges first then the start battery.
The only big cables are from the start battery to the engine. Everything else is smaller - sized either for house bank usage or alternator output. A digital voltmeter will tell you where your voltage drops are. In my case, I had to beef up the ground connection between the house bank and the engine ground to reduce some charging losses.
Uncle Al recommends separate house and start banks.