Atomic 4 Cracked Block?

[cbanta]

I am new to the Forum and am in desperate need of some experienced advice!!

I recieved a call from my marina yesterday afternoon they had my 73 Pearson 30 in the shop for winterization and a brand new top to bottom paint job. The shop manager called and told me that he had fired up the motor with no problems at all, and ran it for several minutes. He told me that when he first started the motor the discharge was rusty, I thought nothing of this as the boat had spent several seasons of inactivity on the hard in Essington PA, before I had her moved out here to Lake Erie. He then proceeded to tell me that once the engine was shut off the motor filled with water in his words a clear indication of a CRACKED BLOCK. I have done some research and it looks as though these were solid blocks with very few cracked block failures.

My question is this; Is there anything other than a cracked block that could explain this behavior I have read about a steel pin in behind the valve springs, manifold leaks, exhaust issues and all sorts of reasons for water getting in... I am just looking to make certain every avenue has been exhausted prior to doing a complete engine swap..

HELP!!
cbantaonpearson30

[Don Moyer]

I'm attaching a guide for actions after water is discovered in the crankcase and one for actions if water is discovered primarily in the combustion chambers.

If your mechanic left the raw water through-hull open, it's possible that the water came in from the exhaust system. The fact that the engine apparently ran OK is a good sign.

Going through the steps in these two guides will give you a good idea of how serious your problem really is.

Don

[pbickmore]

Water in my combution chambers

I discovered Water in my combustion chambers and I followed the steps in the water in cylinders.pdf

I got to step 2 and got it started...but when I turned on the thru hull valve I got a ton of water back in the cylinders and none that I could see in the oil pan (determined by looking at the dip stick and the oil looks normal)

Is there any thing else that I could be looking for???

pb

[Don Moyer]

I assume you mean that the engine ran OK until you opened the through-hull valve, and then it choked out due to water entering the combustion chambers. If this is the case, I'd suspect that the manifold itself may be defective.

You can check the manifold quite easily by removing the hose at each end and then blow into one of the fittings while blocking the other with one of your fingers. If you can blow air through the cooling jacket of the manifold, it is definitely defective and will need to be replaced.

Don

[cbanta]

Update from Local Marina

Ok, I just got word back from the guy at my local marina he had this to say after performing the actions in the documents you had attached earlier:

"We went through enough of the procedure you sent us to determine that there is a failure in the cylinder wall between cylinders 3 & 4. There was low compression found in cylinder 3 and water entering cylinder 4. It is likely that the block itself is intact."

With that being said is this a candidate for a rebuild or could this simply be a problem with a cracked, warped or otherwise damaged head? I am hoping to get the Seorsa back in the water by next Memorial day!! Any suggestions?

[Don Moyer]

I'd remove the head for a check. The problem could be nothing more than a failed head gasket between cylinders 3 and 4.

Don

[pbickmore]

I tested the manifold and could not blow thru

Thanx Mr Moyer for your help on this and many other matters that you have walked me thru

I followed your instructions for testing the manifold and I could not blow thru... so I'm ruling out the manifold...I tested each cylinder by placing my thumb over them and I have no compression on cylinder 4...(away from the fly wheel) I could not get it started this time but I suspect that some of the MM Oil has saturated my fuel system because it was coming out of the carb...

I flushed the carb by opening the flush out screw at the bottom... and allmost got it started but killed my battery in the process...set up a charger and back at it tomorrow...

A local mechanic is telling me that this is a good sign that Im going to need a head...head gasket and possibly new valve springs, studs and misc part that well...while he has it open should probaby be replaced, manifold etc ... $2500

2 questions...Is there any thing else I can do? to test for less expensive fixes? (im not really a mechanic but I have some tools and Im willing to learn)

and if I have to open it up...and change all this my self...do you have a step by step procedure guide???

pb

[Don Moyer]

pb:

I would remove the head, which you can probably do yourself, and check for a bad head gasket or perhaps a pea-sized hole in one of the combustion chambers in the head.

Don

[pbickmore]

OK will do ...should I order a replacement gasket first

OK will do ...should I order a replacement gasket first

Or is there any thing I should have on hand for once I open it up??? like sealer etc?

[Don Moyer]

You will need a pair of head gaskets and a thermostat housing gasket at a minimum, but I recommend ordering our service and overhaul manual first. The manual has step-by-step instructions for disassembling the engine.

Don