Continue Karinya Rebuild, Going back together.

[13jeff13]

The past couple days here in the mid west were very nice and I decided to start getting my A-4 Back together. After rebuilding the starter and painting it,, I have decided I like the look of bare metal better. O'Reillys Sells a Clear High Temp spray,, meant for exhaust manifolds,, and I am thinking I would like to keep the Engine Bare. I would love to hear any objections, ,or why this would be a bad idea, ,if anyone has any. It just seems like the paint chips so easy, and then the engine starts looking bad after time.

[Mo]

Jeff,

Boy, that's a nice prep job. I'll not be the one to tell you what to do there....I like it. Talk to an engine shop and see what they think. Want to make sure the covering you put on stays on.

[Carl-T705]

Why would you think what your putting on would last better, longer or offer more protection than a colored coating?

[13jeff13]

Jeff,

Boy, that's a nice prep job. I'll not be the one to tell you what to do there....I like it. Talk to an engine shop and see what they think. Want to make sure the covering you put on stays on.

Thanks Mo,, It's just the first Going Over,, Much improvement from the original though. Amazing how it looks good on the bench,, and the camera brings out all the flaws, missed spots.

[13jeff13]

Why would you think what your putting on would last better, longer or offer more protection than a colored coating?

Well Carl you are correct with your line of reasoning,, My Thought was that a chipped up color would be more obvious than the Clear coat over bare Metal. The clear coat is VHT made for high temps,, like exhaust manifolds, up to 1200 Deg. Bakes On,, and if you get a bad spot, it would be easier to re cover with clear,, as appose to a Chevy Orange or Black.

[ndutton]

Y'know, except for the UHS you're not dealing with any serious temperatures, at least you shouldn't be. We're taking maybe 170 degrees max. Remember typically the hottest engine component is the exhaust manifold and ours is water jacketed. I can hold my hand on mine when the engine is running.

Whether you use clear coat or pigmented paint is up to you but I'm suggesting the commitment to high temp paint is unnecessary.

[13jeff13]

Y'know, except for the UHS you're not dealing with any serious temperatures, at least you shouldn't be. We're taking maybe 170 degrees max. Remember typically the hottest engine component is the exhaust manifold and ours is water jacketed. I can hold my hand on mine when the engine is running.

Whether you use clear coat or pigmented paint is up to you but I'm suggesting the commitment to high temp paint is unnecessary.

I see,, and I am Curious if the UHS is any better since your modification of Rear to Front on the water delivery? Thanks also for the great Tips and your thread on Your Fresh Water Set up,, Very Nice.

Aside from that, how do you keep the engine looking fresh when every little move makes the paint chip off it seems. When you tighten a bolt for example,, Chipped Paint. I feel just put her all together, and then coat everything with Clear? I'm not completely sold on the idea,, a color will liven things up and not look so Industrial,, But Industrial , has a theme of its own too.

Jeff

Just kicking it around a bit.

[ndutton]

You are correct Jeff, painted finishes need occasional touching up but isn't that the nature of boat ownership? It takes constant maintenance for a bristol finish whether it's varnished brightwork or the engine.

One advantage of a painted finish is you can actually see where the touch-up is needed. In a sarcastic way, it's why we don't paint our engine compartments the color of oil.

I had no expectation changing the hose routing would have any effect on the UHS and since I'd made no measurements before the change I have no way of knowing. And glad you found my FWC setup helpful, it has worked well for me, absolutely trouble free. I can't think of anything I'd change.

[Carl-T705]

Jeff, I just don't think high temp clear will be any better. It may on exhaust manifolds for autos but then being better only means it last what months or weeks longer. Check on the Eastwood website for their recommendations. Maybe acid etching primer and then topcoat. Universal painted the engines after they were totally assembled. Maybe you could try painting everything before assembly then assembled , repaint to cover up the chips. Pick a color where you can buy touch-up paint that can be applied with a brush and just keep up with the rust spots. Good Luck!

[13jeff13]

One advantage of a painted finish is you can actually see where the touch-up is needed. In a sarcastic way, it's why we don't paint our engine compartments the color of oil.



Point taken Neil. It would be difficult to see the places that need attention.. It was just such a pain to strip,, I thought while I was working on it, ,I didn't want to do this again. Also,, with the starter,, the head,, which protrudes into the flywheel area, I wouldn't want any of that paint eventually flake off, and perhaps get into the oil....?I will probably strip that off. ALSO,, I believe the starter need a bare ground to the engine. Maybe the bolts will be good>> ? So Much to Consider.

[ndutton]

Please remember Jeff, it's still an engine.

[Mark Millbauer]

No matter what the parts store guy or the label says, NO paint or clear coat will adhere as well and as long to bare metal as good or better than an epoxy or self-etching primer design to do so. You have done a good job of cleaning up that engine, I think I would finish the job as per the instructions of a good paint SYSTEM designed for the purpose and get on with it knowing that short of chrome plating or powder coating it, you would have about the best form of protection for the exterior of your engine that you can.

Mark

[Laker]

I can fully understand the fact that you are reluctant to cover up those beautifully cleaned castings. If you were restoring a street rod or a bike the clear coated metal would be tempting. However , (and you knew a "but" was coming ...) as indicated by others here , you need to give your engine maximum protection in the marine environment it is headed for , and that means good primer.

The self etching primer sure sounds like the ticket.

[13jeff13]

I can fully understand the fact that you are reluctant to cover up those beautifully cleaned castings. If you were restoring a street rod or a bike the clear coated metal would be tempting. However , (and you knew a "but" was coming ...) as indicated by others here , you need to give your engine maximum protection in the marine environment it is headed for , and that means good primer.

The self etching primer sure sounds like the ticket.

Yep,, I don't know much about the self etching primer, I need to do a little more homework.

Thanks for the in-put ALL,, I will keep a photo Update.

[13jeff13]

Yep,, I don't know much about the self etching primer, I need to do a little more homework.

Thanks for the in-put ALL,, I will keep a photo Update.

Slowly I turn,,, Inch By Inch,,,, Step By Step,,,, Finally Some Progress.

Nothing Time and Money Cant Cure.

Got the new 502 water pump, New Carb, Moyer Electric Fuel Pump Kit. I will be going to fresh water cooling after she is all up and running,, Probably the Indigo System. I was going to cobble together an Automotive Home made Job,, But it didn't seem cost and time worthy.

Again,, sorry for the size, these pics are off my Phone Cam,,

Right Click on the photo, and hit View Image to re size.

Jeff