Pearson 30 questions...any answers?

[rockhopper]

Okay, so trying to plan everything out for next week. I want to install a 1/2" seacock and valve and get my exhaust finished.

So with that in mind when the exhaust comes out of the water lift muffler what needs to happen to it? I've seen diagrams showing that it needs to have a loop or something so the water can't backflow I think...is this correct?

Do I need a anti-siphon valve for the raw water cooling on the exhaust as well? If so where do I get something like that?

From the backing plate video I watched the bolts only go through the backing plate, not the hull.

[rockhopper]

Okay, so an update. The Marelon 1/2" thruhull wouldn't even fit in the hole, I ended up having to take my 7/8" hole saw and running it through the hole to open it up a tiny bit.

Sanded the hull as flat as I could, roughed up both the G10 disc and hull and cross hatched each. Got some Devcon 14300 aka Plexus MA300 epoxy, mixed it up and epoxied the two together. After an hour I sealed the seacock and thruhull fitting with 5200.

Then I was lucky enough to try to put the mainsail up, only to find out that the mainsail is for a S2 7.9 and don't fit my mast. So I had to order a used sail from Minney's Yacht Surplus. I keep telling myself I love surprises.

[Tim]

The new seacock looks great. Did you go with a strainer on the thru hull or just leave it open?

[rockhopper]

I just ended up leaving it open, I wanted the option of being able to run something through it should it get stopped up and I knew the strainer would prevent that.

The boat had a West Marine water strainer on it, going to try to clean the orange paint that someone painted on everything off so I can see the water flow inside it.

[tac]

Exhaust Hose Routing, Pearson 30

The first photo was taken in the quarterberth (port side) looking aft. Note the quarterberth aft joiner bulkhead has been removed.

The second photo was taken from the cockpit, facing aft, looking down into the lazarette.

[GregH]

I just ended up leaving it open, I wanted the option of being able to run something through it should it get stopped up and I knew the strainer would prevent that.

The boat had a West Marine water strainer on it, going to try to clean the orange paint that someone painted on everything off so I can see the water flow inside it.

When you decide to add a fitting in on the inside of the Marelon seacock, it has to be Marlon as well because their plumbing items are all MPS and not the usual NOT

Marelon Plumbing Chart - Forespar

https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.forespar.com/pdf/techTips/M20-Marelon-Marelonplumbing-chart.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwjI-4alsdXVAhVGymMKHRLtDYAQFgglMAA&usg=AFQjCNEJODj2hJah4aaWExQilTsdtqsKtQ

I was going to use their items but since I had a lot of good NPT fittings already I stuck with the bronze.

[rockhopper]

It appears they changed the designs up over the years then. The lazarette on my boat has 3 holes cut, 2 for the blower and 1 for the wet exhaust hose. 1 on port and 2 on starboard, starboard has 1 in the locker and 1 by the fuel tank. My wet exhaust ran to the far starboard hole and was tied up high so as to open the sea water out. Tac what did you do to mount your water lift muffler? Also the 1/8" holes in the copper water injection, did you drill all the way through so you ended up with 10 holes?

Okay, fired the engine up on the hard today. The engine runs great as long as it choked, unchoking the engine it will run at about idle, anything more and it dies. It ran without choke when I bought the engine, the only thing I did is took the points out and connected the Indigo electronic ignition.

Also at idle there was very little water being discharged from the exhaust outlet. Not sure if this had to do with the 6' of 5/8" hose connected to the sea water pump of my FWC kit I had in a 5 gallon bucket of water and/or the straight Barb fitting that I need to convert to a 90 to eliminate the need in the hose.

EDIT: After using a hose clamp on the pump and priming the pump the water output greatly increased. Also a side note on the choke for at least my A4...the engine needs to warm up for a minute or two and as it does you can slowly cut the choke off and my engine ran great afterwards.

[tac]

Exhaust Water Injection

The spray tube was not my idea. It was, I'm told, OEM when I bought the boat. When I rebuilt the hot exhaust, I drilled the holes straight across. I chose ten 1/8" holes using Type K (thin wall) 3/8" copper tube, which has an O.D. of 1/2" and an I.D. of .402". The tube cross section area is .127 in-sq. Ten 1/8" holes have an area of .123 in-sq. Close enough. Plugging the end of the tube directs the water to the side, rather than straight down. This should do a more efficient job of cooling, and contracting, the hot exhaust gas.

[tac]

Low Raw Water Flow

1. With the engine at a set RPM, put a pail or other container at the exhaust and time how long it takes to fill 1 gallon. I get at least 3 gal/min at idle with the Moyer 501 pump.
2. Disconnect the raw water hose from the injection fitting on the hot exhaust section.
3. Hang, or wedge, a bucket or gallon jug and put the open raw water hose in the container.
4. Start the engine and at the same RPM as para 1 time how long it takes to fill 1 gallon. Don't run for very long without water injection in the exhaust.
5. If the flow in para 4 is less than about 2-3 gal/min, there's a restriction in the discharge hose or fittings, a restriction in the pump suction, or a problem with the pump.
6. If your pump is a new Moyer 501, with a new impeller, it's probably OK. How did you draw water from a 5 gal bucket into the pump's suction? Did you use a hose clamp at the pump inlet? If that connection is loose, the pump will suck air. Was the bucket below the pump suction? While the pump will pull water from a height lower than the inlet, it sometimes helps for the first time running a dry pump to place the bucket at or above the pump inlet.
7. If flow in para 4 is good, look at the hose from the waterlift to the transom. How old is it? Newer hose will be marked with the manufacturing date, hose size, and type (SAE J2006-R2 or better is preferred). If any piece of the hose run is unmarked or known to be old, change it. The inner lining may have deteriorated and collapsed, restricting flow of both water and gases. Don't try blowing into the hose and say, "No restriction, it's fine". The A4's exhaust is gas and water. A restriction to water (incompressible fluid) is not the same restriction to a gas (compressible fluid)
8. A collapsed hose could also explain the inability to get over idle. You said the only thing you've done is add the Indigo ignition. Not so: you've apparently rebuilt the hot exhaust, added FW cooling, and maybe replaced some exhaust hose. All those effect engine performance.

[rockhopper]

Setup for running on hard

I had a 5 gallon bucket sitting on the floor, so it would of been lower than the pump. I just had some extra hose from replacing all of my coolant lines with new 5/8" Trident HD water hose, and I didn't use a clamp, guess I didn't think the pump would pull air. All the exhaust hose was just replaced with Trident exhaust 1-1/2" and a 1' piece of 2" so it could exit the transom. Need to wrap the exhaust to keep the heat down as well.

Spoke with Ken at Moyer and was informed to back flush the carb to ensure dirt and crud hadn't gotten into the carb. Also got a 5/8" hose Barb x 3/8 npt 90 coming so that the water injection hose will have no bend/kink in it.

Did you just build a shelf for your muffler to sit on?

[JOHN COOKSON]

I had a 5 gallon bucket sitting on the floor, so it would of been lower than the pump.
?

Pumps like the ones we use on the A4 can have a problem with dead lift. Suggest you get the bucket higher than the engine and then prime the water pump.

TRUE GRIT

[tac]

Low Raw Water Flow

When the boat is in the water, the outside sea water level is about the same level as the pump. Thus the inlet suction hose is pretty much filled with water from the seacock to that level. From there to the strainer and on to the pump may be filled with air, but the pump on startup will handle that easily. But you're on the hard, so as John said, raise the bucket. And, as he says, if necessary fill the hose with water (prime).

The heavy duty, wire reinforced hose on the pump inlet is a good choice, since pump suction won't collapse the hose. However, the stiff fabric layers, and especially that wire reinforcement, mean that hose clamps, tightened down, are necessary. That pump, like all positive displacement pumps, can also be an air compressor (which is simply a pump that pumps air).

I moved the waterlift forward a few inches, so the mounting tabs on the waterlift no longer sat squarely on the OEM mount, which, like you described yours, is a fiberglass/ply box foundation tabbed to the hull. I screwed a 1/4" plywood piece on top of this foundation and attached the waterlift to the new ply.

[rockhopper]

Okay, well my muffler box was on the starboard side screwed to the fiberglass where the ice chest is. Each boat seems to be different or the owners modified them.

The guy I bought the engine from gave me the gauges with it. Does the water temp gauge normally go up when voltage is removed? Without power on it the gauge is reading about 170°F. The temp gauge is a Stewart Warner, not sure about the other 2, they both have the distinct white arrow at the bottom of the gauge and just have Japan wrote on the back. Trying to decide on whether to just replace the gauges and senders or see if they work..

[tac]

S-W Temperature Gauges

The gauge may be fine. For a description of how this gauge works, see:

http://www.moyermarine.com/forums/showpost.php?p=104173&postcount=6

Other posts in many other threads detail how to test these automotive gauges.

You're adding a lot of different problems to this one thread. It would make it easier to follow if you started a new one for each problem.

[rockhopper]

Here is a drawing of the present hot section.

Just wanted to post some information on this, should anyone else run across it at a later date. Make sure if you replace the water lift muffler you purchase the 6" Centek, the 8" is too big for this...ask me how I know, Defender RMA.

I had a hard time locating a few of the items. Your luck maybe better than mine but here is where I found my pieces.

1. 45º street el in 1-1/4" I had to locate at a store local to me named DBJ out of Greensboro, NC. This place is known to carry hard to come by items.
5. 45º street el in 1-1/2" - DBJ as well
11. Copper tube 1/2" O.D. x 12" None of the plumbing places carried type K, found type L at one place. Ordered a 2' piece from Grainger
14. Pipe-to-hose adapter 3/8" MPT x 5/8" hose, bronze. Found this with Fastenal