Water jacket exhaust on C&C Corvette

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  • 67c&ccorv
    Afourian MVP
    • Dec 2008
    • 1592

    #16
    Originally posted by romantic comedy View Post
    67 C&c, are you saying that you have both a standpipe and a waterlift?

    Why?
    No - went with the waterlift but I think with some work either could have been adapted in my vessel.

    Comment

    • 67c&ccorv
      Afourian MVP
      • Dec 2008
      • 1592

      #17
      Originally posted by hanleyclifford View Post
      What is the function of that valve?
      Condensate and following sea drain/surge protector.

      Comment

      • curlyjones
        Senior Member
        • Aug 2014
        • 13

        #18
        Hey Tangaroa, what was used as lagging on your pipe section after the water jacket. I'm looking at mine and it sure looks like its some form of asbestos with a metal sleeve over it. Just curious what yours was and wondering what i may replace mine with.

        Comment

        • tangaroa3
          Senior Member
          • Mar 2013
          • 79

          #19
          Hi Curly...mine had some asbestos looking stuff on it also that was basically disintegrating. Sure hope it wasn't, but I took appropriate precautions while taking it out. There is some discussion on here about a very effective heat wrap...calcium something or other...I forget...that apparently turns dusty and must be contained. May have been that stuff I don't know.
          My latest update is that I am unable the remove that iron Y fitting from the copper exhaust without wrecking it.. Totally seized. May bring it to a machine shop to see what they can do.

          Comment

          • JOHN COOKSON
            Afourian MVP, Professor Emeritus
            • Nov 2008
            • 3501

            #20
            Not Sure I Understand The Set Up But.......

            Originally posted by tangaroa3 View Post
            My latest update is that I am unable the remove that iron Y fitting from the copper exhaust without wrecking it.. Totally seized. May bring it to a machine shop to see what they can do.
            A machine shop should be able to crack it.
            If there has been significat electrolysis the threads may be shot - but I think copper is the more noble metal so you may be OK.

            TRUE GRIT

            Comment

            • lat 64
              Afourian MVP
              • Oct 2008
              • 1994

              #21
              I have a similar system(1968 Columbia 36) I think it is stainless steel!
              And yes, it is a great exhaust. Mine was painted the same bronze color as the engine so I thought it was copper too at first. See picture of it with paint scratched off.
              It runs cool to the touch even when the engine is at temp.


              Russ
              Attached Files
              sigpic Whiskeyjack a '68 Columbia 36 rebuilt A-4 with 2:1

              "Since when is napping doing nothing?"

              Comment

              • BunnyPlanet169
                Afourian MVP, Professor Emeritus
                • May 2010
                • 967

                #22
                Originally posted by JOHN COOKSON View Post
                A machine shop should be able to crack it.
                If there has been significat electrolysis the threads may be shot - but I think copper is the more noble metal so you may be OK.

                TRUE GRIT
                You can attempt it too, if you're careful... Cut along the solid line and discard. Go long enough to leave the full nipple in the pipe. Using a hacksaw (hand powered) cut gently along the dotted line through the remainder, down to the threads. Going at an angle allows you to miss the water jacket. This is an old technique for getting nuts off rusted threads.

                The trick is to approach the second cut like a jeweler trying to take a ring off a finger. Take your time. Sometimes you get lucky and it almost pops open a bit, but more likely it will just allow you to pry the curf apart and that will break the grip on the threads. If it's really really stuck, you can make a second dotted line cut 90 degrees around from the first and pry off a pipe segment.
                Attached Files
                Jeff

                sigpic
                S/V Bunny Planet
                1971 Bristol 29 #169

                Comment

                • tangaroa3
                  Senior Member
                  • Mar 2013
                  • 79

                  #23
                  I may attempt that BunnyPlanet. My wheels were turning the same direction.
                  Sucks being on a shoe string, but I don't mind the work....just hard finding the time to do it.
                  Long weekend coming up, and since I won't be sailing, may try and tackle this.
                  Will keep all posted.

                  Comment

                  • tangaroa3
                    Senior Member
                    • Mar 2013
                    • 79

                    #24
                    Originally posted by BunnyPlanet169 View Post
                    You can attempt it too, if you're careful... Cut along the solid line and discard. Go long enough to leave the full nipple in the pipe. Using a hacksaw (hand powered) cut gently along the dotted line through the remainder, down to the threads. Going at an angle allows you to miss the water jacket. This is an old technique for getting nuts off rusted threads.

                    The trick is to approach the second cut like a jeweler trying to take a ring off a finger. Take your time. Sometimes you get lucky and it almost pops open a bit, but more likely it will just allow you to pry the curf apart and that will break the grip on the threads. If it's really really stuck, you can make a second dotted line cut 90 degrees around from the first and pry off a pipe segment.
                    That worked ! Got that Y fitting off just fine. Leak/pressure tested the system both on the water jacket and exhaust side and I'm calling it good to go.
                    May last a season....may last 20, but from what I saw I think it's fine.
                    FYI, the back side of that gate valve for draining condensation or water that packed in from the transom was packed full of oily soot. The valve was functioning but no way any moisture would drain out.
                    It is now flushed and as clean as I could manage. Now to rearrange the installation so it doesn't hog the whole port lazarette.

                    Comment

                    • curlyjones
                      Senior Member
                      • Aug 2014
                      • 13

                      #25
                      I think I am going to have to try something similar on my pipe union that joins the exhaust to the exhaust flange. FYI The exhaust in my C&C is run very close to the fuel tank and hardly intrudes on the port locker. and stays clear of the aft cockpit locker as well, so it is possible!

                      Comment

                      • BunnyPlanet169
                        Afourian MVP, Professor Emeritus
                        • May 2010
                        • 967

                        #26
                        That worked ! Got that Y fitting off just fine.
                        Hey! That's awesome - nice work!
                        Jeff

                        sigpic
                        S/V Bunny Planet
                        1971 Bristol 29 #169

                        Comment

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