Of course. I wasn't criticizing your judgment, and I apologize if you took it that way. People go up the mast all the time. If given a choice, I don't.
Ok guys, RWC late model with overheating which I plan on tackling this weekend. A bit of background, I recently did a muriatic flush of the cooling system. Today, to prepare for this weekend's task of resolving the overheating (and hopefully to get a better idea where there might be a block in the cooling system) I got a laser heat gun and at about the 15 min mark pointed it at different points of the engine and these are the readings that I got.
Thermostat gauge went from 140 to 160;
Spark plugs were in the range of 180-185 (#4 being the hottest);
A bunch of points all over the head were around 160-174
Manifold was mostly cool (like 150 or less) so was the area around the thermostat housing and the water jacket plate was even cooler.
The connection from the manifold to the exhaust was very high (like 340)!
Does this point to the area of the blockage in the cooling system being at the manifold exhaust connection? Is that where I should start looking for the blockage? I read somewhere that that particular connection is a common problem area. All input appreciated. Thx in advance
Does this point to the area of the blockage in the cooling system being at the manifold exhaust connection? Is that where I should start looking for the blockage? I read somewhere that that particular connection is a common problem area. All input appreciated. Thx in advance
If there is a 90 degree bend in the barbs going into or out of the manifold there is high probability that is where the blockage is, especially at the outlet 90 degree barb. I got so sick and tired of blockages at the outlet 90 degree barb I went to straight barbs. Solved the problem - no more blockages.
As you probably know you can flush the KRAP out of the manifold with city water pressure. I recommend it.
Do you have the Thatch Modification? The Thatch Modification introduces cooling water in to the manifold at the low end which eliminates air pockets and makes for better manifold cooling.
You would get more responses if you would start a new thread for each new "adventure".
Yes, ndutton told me about the thatch mod and I do have it set up like that. I'll check to see about that 90 degree barb once I get back there. Thx so much, Prof. Emeritus
Piece of mind when I'm out there. It's bothering me. When I rev it, it goes up to 180 and smoke has now started coming out the back. It's clearly smoke, just like the old engine did before I killed due to lack of oil 180 is just too close to 220 to me, especially when I'm out there.
Side note: I checked the oil level today and it was low so I'll be doing an oil change this weekend as well.
Also, I remember the adventure I've been on before and although I appreciate it and the people I've met along the way and the knowledge I've gained, I dont want to re-live it, I guess I'm just extra sensitive. Ignorance is bliss. I spent a lot time and mental energy in getting a replacement engine and refurbishing it with your help it and did so in time for this sailing season and I want it to tick like a clock and work as it should. That's it. I mean, shouldn't be getting no hotter than say, what, like 160 when I push the throttle? Right?
When I rev it, it goes up to 180 and smoke has now started coming out the back. It's clearly smoke, just like the old engine did before I killed due to lack of oil
Side note: I checked the oil level today and it was low so I'll be doing an oil change this weekend as well.
Smoke coming out the exhaust when the engine is revved up after idle; oil is disappearing: Aren't these the classic signs of "burning oil"? Are the spark plugs fouling?
Sounds to me like you need a dry and wet compression test.
Ando. first do the "dry test". Be sure the batteries are fully charged, all spark plugs removed, choke open and the throttle set to full. Now do a compression test on each cylinder. I do them twice for checking MY consistancy. That is the dry test.
Wet test is the SECOND test. Now "spray" some WD-40 or spray oil of some sort into the cylinders. Now test again while the cylinder is wet with oil. The oil will fill some of the gaps in the rings if they are worn and you should see "more compression" if the rings are bad. If the compression numbers stay the same and are low you may have valve issues.
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