Water coming through the carb

[Val V]

Neil, I got the same one you show from home depot with all the adapters I needed. Closed both sides properly, no clamps, all threaded NPT with teflon tape.

The result is I think the manifold is bad. 25-30 psi pressure escapes in 1-2 seconds. It sounds like the hissing sound is heard coming from the exhaust pipe.

[ndutton]

And there we have it, good find. At a minimum the manifold needs replacement. We'll see how it runs after that.

[Val V]

Thanks to everyone who helped diagnose it but I cant help wondering if this is enough to cause engine to not fire up without water at all?

[ndutton]

Thanks to everyone who helped diagnose it but I cant help wondering if this is enough to cause engine to not fire up without water at all?

Maybe but let's get the known problems resolved before chasing the as-yet unknowns.

[Val V]

Brand new manifold arrived today and I put it on promptly. Did not even try water but engine would not start. Again, puffs and huffs but no cigar.

Whats worse is that at some point starter just couldnt turn it anymore (after about 2-3 minutes). I checked the battery it was fine and so went to try turning it with a pipe wrench holding by the flywheel stub. It seemed as if it seized. I could turn it back a little and then forward but VERY VERY hard. My friend had to hold the block while I used all my might to turn. I was able to make full 360 turn but it took a lot of effort. Something must have expanded inside because after about 10 minutes we were able to turn it and then it became relatively easy for the starter to take over. After about another 45-60 seconds of cranking it stopped again and as before I could barely make it move. I did not try it anymore after that.

It has about 4+ quarts of oil. Removed valve plate and made sure all valves are moving. Added little oil right through the plug holes but it seems to not have made any affect.

One thing to point out it has never been started since the rebuild. I dont know of any good way of making sure oilpump is working as it should.

Thoughts?

[Mo]

Hard luck.

The engine, when working well, will start on the 3rd or 4th turn. Sounds like the starter may now be history. Need to find the cause of the no fire...no amount of turning it over is going to correct a non fire situation.

A few questions.
1. Was the manifold actually gone.
2. Is there fire/spark; fuel; air and compression.
3. Is the distributor in correctly and not 180 degrees off...it's happened before.
4. Are all the wires on properly.
5. Have you cleaned up the plugs and again check plugs by having plug wire on them when they are our...turn over engine and should see the tip spit spark.

Get back to us on that and lets see where we are. As for the starter...I'd be surprised if you get much more out of it. Once they do continuous turning they heat up and the armature warps...that's the beginning of the end and they short out and can't work any more...keeping it simple.

PS...drop a line and let us know where you are in your troubleshooting. Think about things that go with systems...ie fuel...valves need to be opened...think from the tank to the carb when you think fuel. Spark...think from distributor to the tip of the plug in the head. Ignition do not leave the key on when not running the engine...it can ruin points or EI ..just trying to give you some heads up along the way because it's easy to forget and or get overwhelmed when you are not used to this stuff.

[Val V]

Mo,

No, I think the starter is ok (at least for now). I had difficulty turning the engine over by hand until something cooled off inside to allow it to turn "easier". Easy enough for the starter.

So to answer the questions in the same order:

1) Old manifold was replaced with brand new one but water wasnt on yet.
2) Yes there is spark on every plug.
3) Distributor is on but not ideally timed yet (I can still turn it by hand). It is however in a general direction. Piston #1 up, valves closed and distributor rotor is pointing away from the block and is on 1st wire.
4) Wires are 1,2,4,3 starting from the flywheel.
5) Plugs have been wire brushed and spark fine.


Other things to point out about wiring. Distributor is going to the coil '-'. The '+' is going to the battery. Also going to the battery '+' is the fuel pump. Aside from spark plug wires there is no other wiring. Alternator is not installed. I am using screw driver to connect 'S' with '+' on the solenoid.

Battery '+' is going to the solenoid'. Battery '-' is going to one of the bolts on the block.

[Mo]

I think first thing you can do is get a compression test with a gauge. The thumb test isn't up to par for something like this. Also ensure the correct parts are on there.

[Val V]

I think first thing you can do is get a compression test with a gauge. The thumb test isn't up to par for something like this. Also ensure the correct parts are on there.

Thanks Mo, I will try that tomorrow. Which parts you referring to check they are correct?

[Mo]

Confirm compression...then.
-double check that distributor is in correctly...we have had situations of no start and backfiring coughing etc related to dist being of 180 degrees.
-double check correct rotor button and cap for the distributor.
-double check that you have fuel.

where your wires are 1243 looking in over the engine keep in mind looking at distributor..1..9 O'clock; 2..12 O'clock; 3..3 O'clock; 4..6 O'clock...as you look in over the engine. Just check it all.

[The Garbone]

Did you pull the carb and give it a thorough cleaning? If the bad manifold was puking water into it there is not telling what type of crud is in the passages.

[Val V]

Did you pull the carb and give it a thorough cleaning? If the bad manifold was puking water into it there is not telling what type of crud is in the passages.

Interesting. Today I started to think the same thing after making sure timing of the distributor was good like Mo suggested but it didn't help it start. I'll try cleaning the carb tomorrow.

Still, I don't like that it requires so much effort to turn it over by hand using the pipe wrench. Just doesn't feel right. I don't have my compression tester right now to get exact numbers

[RMark]

at least its not in the boat

The engine should not be that tight, even when warmed up it shouldn't be anywhere near that hard to turn, unless cylinders are full of water. Remove all the plugs and try to turn it with wrench, if still bound up call the shop that built it, its probably got a spun main or rod bearing, continuing to force it is just gonna do more damage.

[The Garbone]

You may want to check the bendex on the starter. Mine got stuck in the forward position after a few cranks, had to pull it apart, clean and lubricate it.

[Val V]

You may want to check the bendex on the starter. Mine got stuck in the forward position after a few cranks, had to pull it apart, clean and lubricate it.

Yep, checked. It retracts away.