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Hello folks,
First of all, thanks for being a part of this very useful community.
My new-to-me '75 C&C 33 with original A-4 has some weird wiring, that I assume is factory, that does not correspond to the wiring diagram in the owners manual. I ran all of my wiring to make my own electrical wiring diagram in preparation for updating some of the boat and systems. I wanted to talk it through with the group to see if anybody thinks I should modify it, or just run it as is.
It mostly pertains to the main grounds.
I have attached a C&C 30 wiring diagram that was made by another member here (thanks!!) - it is mostly the same as my C&C 33 but color coded and much easier to follow.
My main negative terminal block is a single screw with about 10 ring terminals on it. It is located about 1.5 inch from the main positive terminal block, which is unfused, which seems like a recipe for disaster - I am replacing the negative with a big negative bus bar and will move it a little farther away.
1. Fuel level sender ground. My wire goes from the gauge, to the sender, then grounds on the tank itself, then runs to terminate on the motor. The wiring diagram shows it going from the sensor to the terminal block. I could re-route it to the terminal block probably without lengthening the wiring. I believe the fuel tank needs to be grounded both for the gauge to work, and for fire safety. Does it matter whether it grounds on the terminal block or on the motor? In general should all grounds run via the terminal block, or is it OK to have a few things grounded directly to the motor? (I pulled an autopilot ground off the motor, but there is still a bilge pump currently grounded directly to the motor)
2. Wire from Negative terminal block to motor: Does not exist. Should exist based on wiring diagram. Read on.
2. Alternator ground. I have what looks like an original alternator. The alternator generally grounds through the bracket to the motor. It probably still does, but in my case I (also) have a heavy gauge (10g?) black ground wire from the alternator negative, that runs to the engine control panel/gauges in the cockpit and terminates on the fuel gauge negative terminal. This is not shown on any diagram. From that terminal a 10g black runs to the negative terminal block as IS shown in the diagram. There is no wire directly from the negative terminal block to the motor. Therefore, all house current goes through whatever device, to negative terminal block, all the way back to the fuel gauge ground terminal, then to the alternator, which grounds on the motor, which then goes to the battery negative. Seems awful roundabout but works. Would you alter this in any way?
First of all, thanks for being a part of this very useful community.
My new-to-me '75 C&C 33 with original A-4 has some weird wiring, that I assume is factory, that does not correspond to the wiring diagram in the owners manual. I ran all of my wiring to make my own electrical wiring diagram in preparation for updating some of the boat and systems. I wanted to talk it through with the group to see if anybody thinks I should modify it, or just run it as is.
It mostly pertains to the main grounds.
I have attached a C&C 30 wiring diagram that was made by another member here (thanks!!) - it is mostly the same as my C&C 33 but color coded and much easier to follow.
My main negative terminal block is a single screw with about 10 ring terminals on it. It is located about 1.5 inch from the main positive terminal block, which is unfused, which seems like a recipe for disaster - I am replacing the negative with a big negative bus bar and will move it a little farther away.
1. Fuel level sender ground. My wire goes from the gauge, to the sender, then grounds on the tank itself, then runs to terminate on the motor. The wiring diagram shows it going from the sensor to the terminal block. I could re-route it to the terminal block probably without lengthening the wiring. I believe the fuel tank needs to be grounded both for the gauge to work, and for fire safety. Does it matter whether it grounds on the terminal block or on the motor? In general should all grounds run via the terminal block, or is it OK to have a few things grounded directly to the motor? (I pulled an autopilot ground off the motor, but there is still a bilge pump currently grounded directly to the motor)
2. Wire from Negative terminal block to motor: Does not exist. Should exist based on wiring diagram. Read on.
2. Alternator ground. I have what looks like an original alternator. The alternator generally grounds through the bracket to the motor. It probably still does, but in my case I (also) have a heavy gauge (10g?) black ground wire from the alternator negative, that runs to the engine control panel/gauges in the cockpit and terminates on the fuel gauge negative terminal. This is not shown on any diagram. From that terminal a 10g black runs to the negative terminal block as IS shown in the diagram. There is no wire directly from the negative terminal block to the motor. Therefore, all house current goes through whatever device, to negative terminal block, all the way back to the fuel gauge ground terminal, then to the alternator, which grounds on the motor, which then goes to the battery negative. Seems awful roundabout but works. Would you alter this in any way?
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